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CoThG

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2022
Messages
638
Location
Ohio
Really need to get the screwdrivers with that handle on order. My go-to Stihl dealer (been around for almost 60 years and still-family run, also the one I go to when anything breaks...) apparently can't sell what corporate calls "dealer service tools". Yet, the Deere/Stihl dealer (which I only buy Deere stuff from) will.

PS: what exactly does that doohickey do? I may end up throwing it in with that special order.
You talking to me?
 
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Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,657
Location
AZ
How you like the aluminum handle on the Tekton? Honestly I feel like I’d rather have a plastic handle. Won’t get burning hot when you set it down In the sun. prob wear better than aluminum where you’d lose the adonization and also the grip wears down.

something about snap on hard handles and the old discontinued Tekton screwdriver hard handles that feels real nice
I was waiting for Tekton to tell me the shorter 1/4” spinner handle was back in stock. Got tired of waiting so I bought Cat branded, SnapOn made, spinner handle. Less than half the price of the SanpOn online price and no chasing a tool truck
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,699
Location
Southeast
Spent some "me" time wandering around Epstein's this morning. Walked out with a Top adjustable thin wrench, Fujiya thin pliers, and a Handee Clamp

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Say, are those thin Fujiyas on the website? They remind me of Knipex's "bicycle" pliers, which you could use to work on bicycles as long as you don't mind tearing into chromed fasteners or something. They make flat and bent.

 

kyrbz

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
1,314
Location
midwest US
Say, are those thin Fujiyas on the website? They remind me of Knipex's "bicycle" pliers, which you could use to work on bicycles as long as you don't mind tearing into chromed fasteners or something. They make flat and bent.

They were not on the website, but I believe they're $27. They're really thin, somewhat like the Knipex bicycle pliers but angled
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,699
Location
Southeast
Last year, I bought an old, US-made version of that one, as it had a nice handle for half what that handle would cost me. The head was pretty chipped up and pitted, and I figured junk.

I cleaned it up as best as I could and put it to use.

However, it's seen all kinds of use, and is just the right size for all but the heaviest fallen trees I need to cut up. Looks like I'll be impulse buying one at my Ace if they sell them.

Seems like a light head, with a long handle makes a pretty good chopper.

Please don't sleep on Council Tool's axes, still made in USA!

 

YesIHaveAHammer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2025
Messages
819
They remind me of Knipex's "bicycle" pliers, which you could use to work on bicycles as long as you don't mind tearing into chromed fasteners or something. They make flat and bent.
In Swedish they're called "brännartång" - "torch pliers".

Here's what a few sites have to say about them:
Torch/burner pliers from Knipex, also called Conical pliers for vehicles. The pliers provide a stable grip for many applications. Single joint and serrated jaws. Very useful for soldering, welding and forging. (Holgers)

Word of the day: Flask and burner pliers

A pair of pliers that has flat jaws at the tip but a round recess further inward, so that a grip can be obtained around a pipe, (Classic Motor)

Some online reviews say they're good for any knurled ring nuts, and adjusting appliance feet. Also that little hole at the tip for pulling springs or holding small nails and screws.

I'll file them under "tools they'd sell more of if they explained what it's useful for".

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shoggoth80

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
857
Location
Seattle
Now you have to take it apart and put the light on the proper orientation... PSA... Don't drop it.

Bunch of my coworkers have these. One of them can break just about anything. None have broken yet🤣

As far as the mod goes, I might, if the current orientation doesn't work well for me. But, I don't foresee many issues. Lol. Unless I leave it under the hood like my last magnet light. 😡
 

cody1325

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2024
Messages
1,089
Location
Southwest Virginia
Please don't sleep on Council Tool's axes, still made in USA!


Yep. I'm going with them for all new axe purchases; as I've got a huge backlog of really beat-up secondhand axes to work on. Bad handles, wrong handles, no handles, terrible edges--a bit of everything.

I'm currently saving up for a Pulaski and a couple hatchets from them. Unlike a few other American-made axe brands, they simply make stuff that works, and at really affordable prices. The mine supply by me has a Jersey (on the short miner's axe handle) for $50--it'll probably be my first.

I don't know why, but the Stihl/Ochsenkopf axes have been terrible with the heads working themselves loose.
 

Etchase

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2017
Messages
1,997
Location
Hawaii
The blades are forged in France and then the whole screwdriver is finished in the US. As far as I can tell the handles are just like the Proto Duratek drivers. The Craftsman V Series screwdrivers were Facom.

The Proto Duratek blades were also forged in France. Great chemical resistant handles. Some consider these the best.
 

BobsYourUncle69

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2023
Messages
418
Location
Westchester New York
Ebay Gedore finds
-Gedore 7 7-24mm no skips set NOS $150 from Transcat on eBay to your door for those in states without sales tax , they still have a few sets left.

-Gedore 1/2 socket set with some hex key sockets

Here is the link for those who may be keen on the NR7 set , there are 2 left

 

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assassin10000

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2022
Messages
371
Bunch of my coworkers have these. One of them can break just about anything. None have broken yet🤣

As far as the mod goes, I might, if the current orientation doesn't work well for me. But, I don't foresee many issues. Lol. Unless I leave it under the hood like my last magnet light. 😡

Or get two and in true GJ fashion, mod one.

I did.
 
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Twisted Sid

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2013
Messages
758
Location
CA
How you like the aluminum handle on the Tekton? Honestly I feel like I’d rather have a plastic handle. Won’t get burning hot when you set it down In the sun. prob wear better than aluminum where you’d lose the adonization and also the grip wears down.

something about snap on hard handles and the old discontinued Tekton screwdriver hard handles that feels real nice
First impression about the aluminum handle is its machined well, the knurling is pretty grippy but I dont know how well I'm going to like it. It feels like its going to really throw off the balance and feel to a 1/4 ratchet. I dont have a scale to weigh it but with the handle attached to a ratchet it feels like having a 1/2" drive 19mm socket hanging off the ratchet.

Out of boredom/curiosity I took an old 1/4"x6" extension and an extra Tekton screwdriver I had laying in my box and made my own just to feel the difference. I removed the blade, drilled out the handle and pressed in the extension. I honestly think I like the feel and lighter screwdriver handle better.
For $15 its not a bad buy if you are getting other things or putting together one of those 1/4" all in one kits.
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four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,755
Location
Tacoma, Washington
They were not on the website, but I believe they're $27.
@Squankum -
I just shot a note to Jori at Epsteins about the Fujiya model.
Hopefully he'll get back to me and put it on his web page so it can be ordered.
Looks like a problem-solver to me.

In Swedish they're called "brännartång" - "torch pliers".
^ The American term for the model you are showing is "gas burner pliers" and they have much thicker jaws at the business end than those skinny Fujiyas.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,755
Location
Tacoma, Washington
Ooh, my eyes may have deceived me. In thumbnail form at the HJE website, they looked like regular slip-joints.
No... this is an updated twist on the earlier H.D. Smith "Gettatit" offset slip-joint pliers (patent D45919), although with significantly thinner jaws at the business end, which I hope have been hardened enough to securely hold onto a Grade 5 bolt.
I ordered two pairs of them - one for me, one for buddy. We'll see how they do.
 

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lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Nice to see Cambodia making some progress, after having tried to kill everybody who wore glasses a few decades ago.

I would not be surprised if those are only repackaged in Cambodia. There has been a lot of that in response to USA administration tariffs. However, they have been changing faster than businesses can respond and China ultimately holds the upper hand with critical minerals they can threaten if tariffs become large. So my guess is this labeling shifts back to just China before long.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Finally 🤣🤣
Been holding out for one for a hot minute. Couldn't pass on the sale price once I saw it with the coupons.
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I have one of those and it has a bad design flaw. The flip out light needs the main (largest/brightest) LED on the opposite side. They way it is set makes it hard to use with the magnet anchor at the bottom to get the main light where you want. But you can loosen the housing fasteners and easily rotate it to fix the problem. I learned that here on Garage Journal ... I did not think to check before I saw a posting here. That addresses the issue. With that defect rectified, it becomes very good and the annoyance is gone.
 
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lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
We didn't know what JIS Phillips was back then, did we?

Yes, that was the real source of the problem. Using a small Phillips #2 or #1 bit when they were JIS standard and different enough to be a very poor fit. If the fastener is stuck at all with oxidation, it was also awful enough to induce a strip and bigger problems/frustration getting them out.

The same issues on using Phillips drivers on JIS occurred commonly for people working on Japanese electronics with assemblies using small JIS standard headed fasteners. It was very easy to strip those using Phillips -- even when using a lot of pressure.

When the bit fits right, JIS is actually much better than Phillips. Phillips is designed to cam out, while JIS is not. PZ (also designed not to cam out) is also close enough to JIS to work perfectly fine. Today, I think JIS is mostly a dead standard due to that and PZ has taken over. Within tolerances, JIS = PZ (although some people argue about this I am pretty sure it is the case when you look at it like an engineer would). But Phillips is NOT the same as PZ. Using Phillips on JIS or PZ does not work well and is asking for problems if significant torque is needed.

These issues have been discussed in a lot of detail in many threads. There is a lot of misinformation on JIS. But it can be simple. Just use PZ in almost every case where you need a good fit. It works very well on Phillips also. Phillips should mostly just be used for light duty.

In edit add: It might also be helpful to point out to some that modern Vessel + styles are essentially PZ or JIS to tolerance. Many people call Vessel "+" drivers JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard due to them being made in Japan and the legacy of JIS. But I do not think Vessel "+" drivers are claimed to be "JIS" and are within tolerances again of being PZ. This caused me confusion some time back when I first realized the issues. Vessel definitely makes super + style drivers for the price. They work seamlessly on Phillips, old Japanese JIS, and modern PZ. So they are a great catch all solution if you do not want to scrutinize types and context, and just want something to work well in all reasonable cases. There is no need to hunt down old drivers labeled "JIS". It will not work better than contemporary Vessel "+" or PZ (from whoever, PB Swiss, Wera, Wiha, etc etc). Maybe the most important use is in modern battery impact drivers ... using Phillips on PZ fasteners will result in a lot of slips and bits wearing out very quickly along with frustration. PZ bits will last long and work wonderfully and you can generally apply enough torque before a slip to snap the fastener (should avoid of course but that shows you cannot do better).
 
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YesIHaveAHammer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2025
Messages
819
First order direct from Japan came through. Quite a few things with prices being good value, and to make the shipping worth it - so I'll post a couple at a time here. Today, square drive stuff.
Here's the rest.

Anex Pry bar 9145
Anex Gasket scraper 9155
The pry bar is a useful step up from a mini. I do have a long gasket scraper which I use to scrape everything except gaskets, but I thought this short one would be better for putting on pressure while using only one hand. Both have a metal striking cap.
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Tsunoda PLC-200U hold pliers slip joint 200mm (8")
Slightly curved jaws for parallel contact on the object. I'm not sure why they decided on bare handles but they're comfortable, knurled for grip, look good, and easy to spot. They also do a 150mm (6") and thin/bent variants. Ever since I got my parallel jaw pliers, I'd been looking for something similar that had more jaw capacity than 14mm (~9/16").
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Deen DNMP51051 Magnetic pad 51mm (2")
These have one magnet and are plenty strong. Now just need to remember to use them. It would be an improvement for them to not be all black. They do many sizes.
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Shinwa Straight Ruler silver 300mm (12")
Nicely made, stiff enough (1mm thick), conversion table on the back. They make loads of ruler variants, including a very slightly cheaper ($0.50) version without anti glare coating (14028), and one with a raised tab for ease of lifting it up (13134) - but that's in cm rather than mm for some reason.
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pfbz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
956
Here's the rest.

Anex Pry bar 9145
Anex Gasket scraper 9155
The pry bar is a useful step up from a mini. I do have a long gasket scraper which I use to scrape everything except gaskets, but I thought this short one would be better for putting on pressure while using only one hand. Both have a metal striking cap.
1 - Copy.jpg

Tsunoda PLC-200U hold pliers slip joint 200mm (8")
Slightly curved jaws for parallel contact on the object. I'm not sure why they decided on bare handles but they're comfortable, knurled for grip, look good, and easy to spot. They also do a 150mm (6") and thin/bent variants. Ever since I got my parallel jaw pliers, I'd been looking for something similar that had more jaw capacity than 14mm (~9/16").
2a - Copy.jpg

2b - Copy.jpg

Deen DNMP51051 Magnetic pad 51mm (2")
These have one magnet and are plenty strong. Now just need to remember to use them. It would be an improvement for them to not be all black. They do many sizes.
4 - Copy.jpg

Shinwa Straight Ruler silver 300mm (12")
Nicely made, stiff enough (1mm thick), conversion table on the back. They make loads of ruler variants, including a very slightly cheaper ($0.50) version without anti glare coating (14028), and one with a raised tab for ease of lifting it up (13134) - but that's in cm rather than mm for some reason.
3 - Copy.jpg
lol... I have two of those three! The ruler is great, don't have the magnetic pucks, and honestly the Tsunoda pliers are the only Tsunoda's I have that I don't really care for... I think the lack of at least dipped handles kind of makes them feel a bit, dare I say, cheap?
 
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pfbz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
956
German tool goodness arrived today... My first NWS tool among many Knipex and Gedore pliers. Have to say a bit blown away, really nice!

And I already have plenty of Felo and love them too, but this is my first of this particular type.

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