Show your new tool arrivals

[PelicanPines]

Ratchet arrived today. The rotohead is a bit stiff. Its locked in certain spots with that green switch. It has PEFECT back drag which is the reason for its purchase.

The Tray arrived a few days ago... It is still in pieces on top of my table saw. Wack thick / quality metal. I may or may not modify the casters. Gonna look in my "caster box".

 

[Qualitytools]

Ratchet arrived today. The rotohead is a bit stiff. Its locked in certain spots with that green switch. It has PEFECT back drag which is the reason for its purchase.

The Tray arrived a few days ago... It is still in pieces on top of my table saw. Wack thick / quality metal. I may or may not modify the casters. Gonna look in my "caster box".

Is that a 3/8 or 1/2 WERA ratchet?

 

[darkzero]

Is that a 3/8 or 1/2 WERA ratchet?

Looks like 1/4" to me. I have the same one but in the set with sockets, extensions, & screwdriver bits.

I love that ratchet & set in case, got it for Christmas but I don't get to use it much.

Edit: Yup, 1/4", I see the A on the handle in his pic. 8000A is 1/4", 8000B is 3/8", 8000C is 1/2"

 

[PelicanPines]

Is that a 3/8 or 1/2 WERA ratchet?

1/4" It's replacing a Gearwrench that has sooo much backdrag... it's a breaker bar.

 

[midorix]

Been a while since my last post. Got Tekton 24oz brass hammer, short and long Ullman picks, Gray Tools brass drifts, and big heavy *** 19mm socket (if you know what this 19mm is for, you know my upcoming task)

 

[germanwrenchguy]

I spent way too much on those sockets though..

 

[jobo1004]

Been a while since my last post. Got Tekon 24oz brass hammer, short and long Ullman picks, Gray Tools brass drifts, and big heavy *** 19mm socket (if you know what this 19mm is for, you know my upcoming task)

Enjoy your Honda timing belt replacement.

 

[Bessy]

Grabbed a 6-1/2" 40T DeWalt blade for the new circular saw (and skuffed it up before I took a picture, sorry), and the sub-compact reciprocating saw arrived today with a battery and yet another charger... A few other goodies in the mail (3/8" drive metric sockets to fill Hansen pegs (6mm deep (Taiwanese Craftsman) and 6mm shallow/ 7mm shallow (gearwrench) are in the mail. Also grabbed a set of E-torx sockets from Lexivon that arrived yesterday.

Since I'm adding to the stable, I figured I better line up all of the cordless stuff on the bench for a picture, because why not?

Not pictured is my old 12v porter cable drill/impact combo that live in their respective bag, and the few corded items in my arsenal (5" Bosch RO, Ridgid 1/4 sheet sander, and Ridgid palm router, craftsman rotary tool, Dremel rotary tool, Dremel saw and Dremel oscillating tool).

Lining up the DeWalt and Ridgid stuff I have come to realize I have one more tool than batteries, so we may need to rectify that before the end of the Tool Takeover. I'm considering picking up a two pack of 4ah batteries and the leaf blower for cleaning out the garage, drying cars, etc. Then everything will be even lol.

Also trying now to decide the safest, most effective way to package all of these up to move them 700km... The first iteration was to store what I could in their own respective tool bag, then pile those into Rubbermaid totes for the short term while we clean out our current place. I'm wondering now if that's the best idea or not for a 700km move? The rest of the tools I've managed to pair down to fit in my 42" roll cab, a 26" top box and a few hand boxes/bags for the rest. A medium cardboard box of automotive tools was not going to fit anywhere else the way I had everything set up, so I had to go that route for those items (almost all exclusively in cases). I'll probably still wrap the drawers in stretch wrap, shore up the bottom of the roller box with lumber so it's not bouncing around on the casters, and strap the 26" to the top good and tight after wrapping everything in a moving blanket.

 

[silkman]

Moar tools from yesterday.

"Champion" impact screwdriver set, a 250mm Cobra and a Knipex ferrule tool for cable 1 to 16mm diameter. The ferrule tool hurt the most at 30 euros.


More about the screwdrivers in the Tools of Japan thread.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/tools-of-japan.97563/page-186

Knipex ferrule tool detail:



Now my humble Knipex collection only has the following:

 

[bugnut]

My new daily carry knife with common and phillips screwdriver. Went to see the Red Wings and failed to remember that the walk through xray would cause me to sacrifice my knife. Forty dollar lesson !

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

Not new, but new to me. Had a friend turn me onto a machine shop that closed down. The guy was also selling a bunch of wrenches and automotive tools. 0-6 mic set, depth gauge, mill tramming indicators, some big ol Proto SAE wrenches to fill some holes in my set, hole saws, 12pt craftsman USA sockets and a couple DOE vintage Snapons just because. Not to mention a few cases of endmills, taps and dies. Mostly USA/Canada made stuff. $400 for the whole lot. Great day!!

Nice score. What did you give for that traming indicator..

 

[Fly YX]

Got this a few days ago. Huge fan of there screwdrivers . Not so much on there joker wrenches . See how this comparison to my Snap On one. I like the locking Feature so far.

 

[HenryAZ]

1/4" It's replacing a Gearwrench that has sooo much backdrag... it's a breaker bar.

I've had that same ratchet for about a year now. It is sweet, and is my goto over ratchets included with sets, even Koken and SK sets. Push button socket release and locking swivel positions.

 

[Maxcustody]

Ratchet arrived today. The rotohead is a bit stiff. Its locked in certain spots with that green switch. It has PEFECT back drag which is the reason for its purchase.

The Tray arrived a few days ago... It is still in pieces on top of my table saw. Wack thick / quality metal. I may or may not modify the casters. Gonna look in my "caster box".

Tray looks good compared to others I have seen. Where did you order it from? You said quality seems good?

Thanks

 

[PelicanPines]

Tray looks good compared to others I have seen. Where did you order it from? You said quality seems good?

Thanks

They don't have anymore "**** green" ... the red is currently listed for under $80 EDIT: RED SOLD OUT TOO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JQ8XHV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have been watching this item (in green) for a few years. I have no room for it but kept looking. It popped up for $70. I had a credit... so I got it for $32. I also had a gift card for $30... so I PAID TWO BUCKS. There is no way I was gonna pass that up.

 

[midorix]

Enjoy your Honda timing belt replacement.

Ding, ding, ding
I hope it works. Last time, I had to do the traditional method of breaker bar, 2ft extension, jack holding extension, 4ft cheater bar and my full body weight. That did not feel safe.

 

[Shop-hound]

Honestly it’s hard to say as I basically built a mountain of stuff and we did a package deal to take it all. Probably about $25. I looked it up and they are $100 new (made in China), but at 25% of retail and a non-pro machinist I think it was a great deal on a starter set of tooling and instruments.

Nice score. What did you give for that traming indicator..

 

[Renegade1LI]

More Milwaukee lights, working nights has it’s good and bad points, the crews need light. Milwaukee has by far the best battery lights, i will never buy hf lights, you pay more but get a lot more, super durable.

 

[Fly YX]

More Milwaukee lights, working nights has it’s good and bad points, the crews need light. Milwaukee has by far the best battery lights, i will never buy hf lights, you pay more but get a lot more, super durable.

I like there lights just wish they did not go through the batteries so quickly.

 

[freudianfloyd]

Dont think I posted this when I got it back at Xmas. Got the Mityvac 7300 fluid extractor so I dont have to crawl under cars to drain oil anymore. This thing is slick. Just stood around having a cold one while the compressor and the extractor did all the work. Extracted exactly what should have been in the engine, never even got on the floor. Life save for these low to the ground cars.


Couple snappy things. My recent obsession with Audis is facilitating lots of tool purchases. I have a plethora of Torx already, but didnt have this mini set yet. I told myself for tools like this I wont order them, but if they're on the truck I'll grab em. Well my driver finally had them in stock. The other is a locking flex bit ratchet. I had to use a bit ratchet to get the fender liners loose the other weekend because my lazy *** didnt want to remove the wheels to do so. The small Wiha ratchet that came with my Wiha bit set I posted awhile back is nice in open places, but in cramped spots its very easy to hit the selector switch which drove me mad so when I saw this on the truck I snatched it right up.

I was all set to buy that fluid extractor and was telling my dad about it, but then he got me second guessing it. So I will ask you, what happens to all the metal/gunk/debris that settles to the bottom of your oil pan that would normally wash out during when you remove the plug. Does this do a good job of removing that stuff?

 

[four.cycle]

So I will ask you, what happens to all the metal/gunk/debris that settles to the bottom of your oil pan that would normally wash out during when you remove the plug.

Unless the automobile manufacturers have done some serious redesigning of the bottoms of oil pans during the last ±25 years (when I was still selling engines), the metal/gunk/debris will just lay there in the bottom of the pan, just as it always did before, until the pan is removed and cleaned out.
It's amazing what you can find laying in the bottoms of oil pans... handfuls of nylon camshaft sprocket teeth, hexagonal oil pump drive shafts, 1/4-20 valve cover screws, etc.

 

[freudianfloyd]

Unless the automobile manufacturers have done some serious redesigning of the bottoms of oil pans during the last ±25 years (when I was still selling engines), the metal/gunk/debris will just lay there in the bottom of the pan, just as it always did before, until the pan is removed and cleaned out.
It's amazing what you can find laying in the bottoms of oil pans... handfuls of nylon camshaft sprocket teeth, hexagonal oil pump drive shafts, 1/4-20 valve cover screws, etc.

You may be right. I thought it was an awesome idea, my old dad just doesn't like new fangled gadgets and put the doubt in my head. Of course he has a lift so getting under vehicles isn't a problem for him.

 

[four.cycle]

^ Buddy, if there was a neat and clean way to remove oil from lawnmower engines, I'd be all over it. Unfortunately, the profit margin on lawnmowers doesn't justify the purchase of a device of that nature.
Briggs & Stratton hasn't put a drain plug on their little four-cycle engines for years - you have to turn the goddam mower over on its side (or upside-down) to get the oil out of the machine.

 

[Smokeshow69]

^ Buddy, if there was a neat and clean way to remove oil from lawnmower engines, I'd be all over it. Unfortunately, the profit margin on lawnmowers doesn't justify the purchase of a device of that nature.
Briggs & Stratton hasn't put a drain plug on their little four-cycle engines for years - you have to turn the goddam mower over on its side (or upside-down) to get the oil out of the machine.

To do this you need 2 drain pans one for oil and one for gasoline. Love it

 

[four.cycle]

^ fortunately on most of them that I work on the fuel tanks can be easily removed prior to dumping the oil. bad enough dumping engine blood all over. the fuel is usually garbage anyway - I dump it out and haul it to the haz waste transfer station.

 

[Odd-job]

My new daily carry knife with common and phillips screwdriver. Went to see the Red Wings and failed to remember that the walk through xray would cause me to sacrifice my knife. Forty dollar lesson !

Just ordered a Swiss army replacement myself. TSA keeps getting mine!

 

[Smokeshow69]

^ fortunately on most of them that I work on the fuel tanks can be easily removed prior to dumping the oil. bad enough dumping engine blood all over. the fuel is usually garbage anyway - I dump it out and haul it to the haz waste transfer station.

There is nothing to see in that picture… moving along

 

[PelicanPines]

^ fortunately on most of them that I work on the fuel tanks can be easily removed prior to dumping the oil. bad enough dumping engine blood all over. the fuel is usually garbage anyway - I dump it out and haul it to the haz waste transfer station.

Needs JB Weld ...

 

[Bessy]

Getting closer... 2 sockets to go before the metric 3/8 rack is complete! Missing 6 still to complete the 1/4 metric, 6 3/8" SAE, and 9 for my 1/4 SAE stuff. For 1/2" stuff I'm mainly focused on impacts, with only the chromies that I either purchased in a set (case) or the odd individuals I needed for a specific job (30mm and 15/16" for mower spindle bolts on two mowers I used to work on).

 

[Alpine4x4]

I was all set to buy that fluid extractor and was telling my dad about it, but then he got me second guessing it. So I will ask you, what happens to all the metal/gunk/debris that settles to the bottom of your oil pan that would normally wash out during when you remove the plug. Does this do a good job of removing that stuff?

It will **** whatever it can when it has vacuum so if the tip is down on the bottom of the pan it could **** it up. I personally didnt see anything when I drained it, but rarely do when I drain normally as well. Would be wise to invest in a magnetic drain plug and pull the plug every few changes if its concerning. Once I get a lift I'll go back to the conventional way of doing it. I currently change oil in all our Audis at 5k miles regardless so the oils always relatively fresh.

 

[four.cycle]

^ ALWAYS a good idea to replace the OEM drain plug with a magnetic drain plug if it's possible. ALWAYS.

Finally got over to the post office this afternoon and had a few items to pick up:

A couple "Maxcraft" brand "Screw Extractor Bits" which are supposed to magically solve the issue of the stripped-out screw heads I run into now and then. No idea if they're worth a damn.
Another incomplete Niagara "PreMax" radio wrench set. I'm hoping I have enough pieces now to put one full set together.
A little "Wardmastr" 1/4" drive ratchet - same as an early Indestro 2875, but with a fat round knurled handle, which I think I'll like more.
1928-1929 Otto Bergmann Werkzeuge tool catalog (reprint)

And some pliers for my buddy, since he was admiring some of mine on his last visit:
11-inch Tekton-made diagonal cutters ($10.95 incl. shipping from "YourPartsPlace")
10-inch Wilde G264FP.NP Flush-Fastener slip-joint pliers ($27.97 incl. shipping from BowersTool)
Wilde G271 10-inch groove-joint angle-jaw pliers ($10.00 + shipping from Harry Epstein)
Wilde/Witco G299 12-3/4" groove-joint "Pipe Wrench" pliers ($12.00 + shipping from Harry Epstein)

 

[BmwTechZiggy]

Unless the automobile manufacturers have done some serious redesigning of the bottoms of oil pans during the last ±25 years (when I was still selling engines), the metal/gunk/debris will just lay there in the bottom of the pan, just as it always did before, until the pan is removed and cleaned out.
It's amazing what you can find laying in the bottoms of oil pans... handfuls of nylon camshaft sprocket teeth, hexagonal oil pump drive shafts, 1/4-20 valve cover screws, etc.

Speaking of which, I pulled a big chunk of the block out of the oil pan i was replacing on a ej205 late last week. best guess is someone used a bolt that was too long somewhere. but it wasnt leaking anything unusual and ran as good as a highly molested Subaru wrx runs so

 

[Shop-hound]

Getting closer... 2 sockets to go before the metric 3/8 rack is complete! Missing 6 still to complete the 1/4 metric, 6 3/8" SAE, and 9 for my 1/4 SAE stuff. For 1/2" stuff I'm mainly focused on impacts, with only the chromies that I either purchased in a set (case) or the odd individuals I needed for a specific job (30mm and 15/16" for mower spindle bolts on two mowers I used to work on).

Seeing that really makes me want to fill out my 3/8 metric pins. 20mm peg looks so lonely

 

[PelicanPines]

Seeing that really makes me want to fill out my 3/8 metric pins. 20mm peg looks so lonely

My issue with those pin things... I have sizes not listed on the pegs... and duplicates I keep next to each other. Several 10mm for example along with 1/2" and several others. I prefer rails with LABELS on the sockets. Those "metal" labels you buy in a pack.

 

[Shop-hound]

My issue with those pin things... I have sizes not listed on the pegs... and duplicates I keep next to each other. Several 10mm for example along with 1/2" and several others. I prefer rails with LABELS on the sockets. Those "metal" labels you buy in a pack.

Hmm. I see your point. I try to keep duplicates in my spares drawer to help my OCD . My issue with the clips is that you need 2 hands to remove them, one to pull socket, the other to brace the tray from coming with it. A peg has no resistance to me grabbing the socket I need and is clearly labelled at the top. This is all fine and dandy until you have the tray next to you under a car. That’s where I use the clipped pegs with labelled sockets (my “to go” impact socket sled. I write the sizes on with paint pen (idea a found on this forum) and it makes a big difference being able to grab what I need. Matco does a great job of this and contemplating a few of their pinless to finish my 1/2” drive 6pc Snap on set.

Absolutely agree on the labelling socket point! Tell me more of these labels you use. Would probably look more professional than my chicken scratch

 

[PelicanPines]

Hmm. I see your point. I try to keep duplicates in my spares drawer to help my OCD . My issue with the clips is that you need 2 hands to remove them, one to pull socket, the other to brace the tray from coming with it. A peg has no resistance to me grabbing the socket I need and is clearly labelled at the top. This is all fine and dandy until you have the tray next to you under a car. That’s where I use the clipped pegs with labelled sockets (my “to go” impact socket sled. I write the sizes on with paint pen (idea a found on this forum) and it makes a big difference being able to grab what I need. Matco does a great job of this and contemplating a few of their pinless to finish my 1/2” drive 6pc Snap on set.

Absolutely agree on the labelling socket point! Tell me more of these labels you use. Would probably look more professional than my chicken scratch

Just go to Amazon and search socket labels.

 

[f121]

My long lost snap on guy finally showed up, picked up the brake pry bar I’ve had on order, and a few other bits - pocket pry bar, locking extensions and I impulse bought a really sturdy bluepoint scraper.

I’ve been after a set of locking 1/4” extensions after loosing a hex bit
deep into the engine on a LR2, don’t really need the long one but the set was roughly half price.

 

[jonshonda]

My first surplus auction purchase. Heavy little *******!

 

[javyLSU]

Seeing that really makes me want to fill out my 3/8 metric pins. 20mm peg looks so lonely

My issue with those pin things... I have sizes not listed on the pegs... and duplicates I keep next to each other. Several 10mm for example along with 1/2" and several others. I prefer rails with LABELS on the sockets. Those "metal" labels you buy in a pack.

I stopped using the pre-labeled trays after I realized how much money and space was being wasted buying and storing socket sizes I'll never use. I now use the Harbor Freight magnetic socket rails. Like everything else, they used to be cheaper than they are now, I used to buy them for $16 each. I like that I can cut them to a shorter length if needed, which saves a lot of space in my top drawer. Also the magnets are strong enough to hold the rail in place when removing an individual socket. Really happy with them so far.

 

[MLRtime]

1/4 socket set from Sunex.