Shower curb diy

[branimal]

Can I build a shower curb by stacking 2x4s on the 4s and wrapping with 1/4 or 1/2 cement board and covering it with Redguard? Thinking 3 2x4s = 4.5”.


In the past I’ve bought Kerdi curbs. But a 60” is $88. I’ve got all the above required materials in my basement.

Trying to save some money.

Thanks




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[The Cobbler]

$ 88 is cheap IMO, rather than a repair down the road due to rot.

 

[ddurrett896]

I did 3 2x4s for my curb, wrapped in hardi (I know Schluter says Sheetrock) then covered in Kerdi.

Technically Reguard should work but I don’t like a liquid membrane on the ground, especially at the change of plane with the wall.

$88 is nothing in the scheme of things. Easy $$

 

[branimal]

I did 3 2x4s for my curb, wrapped in hardi (I know Schluter says Sheetrock) then covered in Kerdi.

Technically Reguard should work but I don’t like a liquid membrane on the ground, especially at the change of plane with the wall.

$88 is nothing in the scheme of things. Easy $$

I will use a Kerdi Linear shower tray which requires Kerdi band (membrane) at the change of plane from the shower to the interior curb wall.

 

[ddurrett896]

I will use a Kerdi Linear shower tray which requires Kerdi band (membrane) at the change of plane from the shower to the interior curb wall.

Then why not just Kerdi everything and skip Redguard?

 

[xyster101]

I built a custom shower stall and made a custom angled curb. I used 2x4's stacked like you want and then ran the rubber floor membrane up and over it, gluing it in place and using nails on the outside of the curb. I am no tile guy and I moved out of the house a year later, so I don't know if it has held up or leaked. Just for good measure I installed a fish tank in the wall too.

 

[Jeepster04]

Doesn't water leak down around whatever plastic screed thing you used there and just sit under the concrete? Imagine that would mold and smell like **** after awhile.

 

[ddurrett896]

Doesn't water leak down around whatever plastic screed thing you used there and just sit under the concrete? Imagine that would mold and smell like **** after awhile.

The plastic isn't the issue. It looks like the liner is flat on the floor so water won't run to the weep holes in the drain.

Should have a poured pre-slope, then liner then morter bed. Most people don't do this, in fact I've seen plenty of plumbing and tile business pages that show off their work with a flat liner

 

[kj_mustang]

For the two custom tile showers in my house, the tile guys did it just like xyster101. Two 2x4's stacked, membrane over them and the floor, then mortar bed. It may have had a sloped mortar bed under the membrane as it looked sloped when I saw it with the membrane installed. I didn't see it before that.

 

[branimal]

Then why not just Kerdi everything and skip Redguard?

Not a bad idea. The Kerdi band stuff isn't too expensive to cover the curb.

 

[Falcon67]

We just re-did our master and removed the curb forever. The old one was 3 2x4s, wrapped and covered with tile. Thick with black mold. Spend the $$.

 

[Jeepster04]

The plastic isn't the issue. It looks like the liner is flat on the floor so water won't run to the weep holes in the drain.

Should have a poured pre-slope, then liner then morter bed. Most people don't do this, in fact I've seen plenty of plumbing and tile business pages that show off their work with a flat liner

Isnt the liner below the drain? Even if it was slopped it wouldnt have anywhere to go.

If the water did drain out between the mortar and liner, wouldnt it still stay wet if you took a shower everyday? I know they say not to rely on the grout n such but does it keep the mortar and liner dry?

I'm certainly no expert, just wondering.

 

[strutaeng]

At my old house I had to redo the 30x36" tile shower.
In retrospect, doubled pt 2x4 is a pain to wrap with cement board. I suspect even pt won't last that long anyway.

Are you on a slab or wood flooring? Just form and pour a concrete curb! 3 bags of mix and done. Waterproof as normal. Not the easiest, but the longest lasting.

At my current house I demolished the slab, recessed it and did curbless. Enlarged it to 5x5' while I was at it. At our little shower we had several near falls when stepping over the curb.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I'm thinking my contractor used some type of cinder block

 

[Radix2]

you have a menards around?

https://www.menards.com/main/floori...69-c-6590.htm?tid=-2851449146197022255&ipos=1

many people use 2x material - but it is an inferior method because wood expands and contracts seasonally - and 4.5 inches of solid wood can move quite a lot - and the tile doesn't at all, so there will be cracks in grout joints in humid summer months and the assembly is always trying to work itself apart.

Foam structural parts in showers are a good step forward over wood framing. For low cost benches, you can laminate up the 25psi Dow 2" foam into shapes at a savings from the pre-made items.

 

[ddurrett896]

Isnt the liner below the drain? Even if it was slopped it wouldnt have anywhere to go.

If the water did drain out between the mortar and liner, wouldnt it still stay wet if you took a shower everyday? I know they say not to rely on the grout n such but does it keep the mortar and liner dry?

I'm certainly no expert, just wondering.

Check out the attached picture.

The water that makes it's way under the tile floor drains to the drain. When the liner is flat is sits and starts to smell.

 

[ScottsGT]

Check out the attached picture.

The water that makes it's way under the tile floor drains to the drain. When the liner is flat is sits and starts to smell.

Exactly how I did mine. I used PT lumber everywhere I added wood. For the shower seat, I used cement blocks. No wood framing in mine.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Isnt the liner below the drain? Even if it was slopped it wouldnt have anywhere to go.

If the water did drain out between the mortar and liner, wouldnt it still stay wet if you took a shower everyday? I know they say not to rely on the grout n such but does it keep the mortar and liner dry?

I'm certainly no expert, just wondering.

The drain has weep holes that the liners supposed to be pitched towards because concretes not waterproof. So the moisture that gets through drains into the weep holes. Then you have the top tile layer that drains in the hole part of the drain.

 

[johnnyradiant]

It's all in the details. If you sweat all the details you can get away with other options besides something that has taken care of some of the details for you. Either way details will cost some money and or labor, and either way that investment is pennies now compared to dealing with the details later, even if it one week after the fact.

 

[paredown]

Exactly how I did mine. I used PT lumber everywhere I added wood. For the shower seat, I used cement blocks. No wood framing in mine.

FWIW, the guys over on John Bridges forum (my go-to guys for tile installs) recommend using either block or regular lumber. Most pressure treated lumber has a very high moisture content is is more likely to shrink, warp or twist after install...

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=104905

Also, a lot of jurisdictions will not allow PT lumber to be used in habitable spaces.

I did mine with stacked regular wood, full Kerdi treatment--but it was a pony wall and short angle curb, so it was easier to do it all in wood.

 

[RocketScott]

As a framer that has built an untold number of shower curbs, three 2x4s is all it takes (untreated)

Beyond that I wouldn't know. That's another sub

 

[strutaeng]

Well, this turned out to be a can of worms...Pressure treated lumber, non-pressure treated lumber, bricks, concrete blocks, cast-in-place concrete, synthetic blocks?

I'd still say curbless and the issue goes away

 

[kj_mustang]

Yeah, if you plan for it in the build and have a sunken area built into the floor trusses/joists.

 

[branimal]

@Radix2 good call on the wood expanding and contracting. I guess the $88 bucks isn’t that bad when you completely eliminate the possibility of cracked tile.

@paredown - did you put cement board on top of your wood curb b/f the kerdi? Thanks for the link to the John Bridge discussion. I put up a PT 4x4 as a nailer for the shower glass. The expansion and contraction could reek havoc on the tile. Replacing it today.

@strutaeng wood flooring. But I do like the idea of going curbless when/if I build a shower in the basement.

Thanks for all the posts. Learned a bit more about mud job style showers. I might attempt it on the next shower I need to build. Properly sloping the cement base layer before the shower liner is intimidating so I’ve used the Schluter/Kerdi linear trays in the past. Between the tray, curb, linear drain, drain cover, and kerdi band it’s over $900 to do a schluter shower.

It seems to be a bit of an art laying down the concrete base layer with a correct slope to the drain. Is there a hack on getting that right for a first time DIY’r? Like some type of guide?

 

[ddurrett896]

It seems to be a bit of an art laying down the concrete base layer with a correct slope to the drain. Is there a hack on getting that right for a first time DIY’r? Like some type of guide?

Watch a few Youtube videos and find a calculator online for the mix. I did mine and it was intimidating, especially because of the size but worked out perfect...the total base was 40sqft!

Get your drain plumbed and placed with the foam spacers underneath then measure the distance between the drain and the walls. Mine is rectangular so two walls were 2' away and the other 2 were 4' away. Since 4' is longer, I went with that number.

4' x 1/4" drop per foot = 1" of total slope. I set a laser on top of the set drain with a 1" shim under it and marked the wall. Then marked the line around the entire shower and used that as a reference for the top of the mud deck.

From there just mixed and formed. Buy one of these - it's worth every penny even for 1 job. I would make up 2 buckets at a time, carry to bathroom and dump. Screed is pretty easy. Just use a 2' or 4' level and make sure the mud grades to the drain.

https://www.contractorsdirect.com/B...MInOHr5rK74QIVRCaGCh1hqQx4EAYYASABEgIQn_D_BwE

You really can't mess up. Fat mud doesn't set up like poured concrete so you have time to work it and if you need to re-do, it breaks apart and comes up easy.

I'd also cover the wood subfloor in tar paper and a sheet of wire mesh like below.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/42-in-x-7-ft-Mesh-Mat-67803/306524803

 

[volleyball]

You don't have to plan for curbless. There are companies that make bases that attach to the floor joists. Are non porous and have pitch built right in. We are all getting older.
And it looks much nicer

 

[Dustball]

Thanks for all the posts. Learned a bit more about mud job style showers. I might attempt it on the next shower I need to build. Properly sloping the cement base layer before the shower liner is intimidating so I’ve used the Schluter/Kerdi linear trays in the past. Between the tray, curb, linear drain, drain cover, and kerdi band it’s over $900 to do a schluter shower.

It seems to be a bit of an art laying down the concrete base layer with a correct slope to the drain. Is there a hack on getting that right for a first time DIY’r? Like some type of guide?

I've used the Pre-Pitch system once before and it worked fine for me.

http://www.pre-pitch.net/pre-pitch.html

 

[johnnyradiant]

Is the pressure treated rated for inside use? Isn't the purpose of PT to limit rot? So the need for PT would be almost like saying who cares about the details and the PT will take up the slack.

 

[usa#1]

@Radix2 good call on the wood expanding and contracting. I guess the $88 bucks isn’t that bad when you completely eliminate the possibility of cracked tile.

@paredown - did you put cement board on top of your wood curb b/f the kerdi? Thanks for the link to the John Bridge discussion. I put up a PT 4x4 as a nailer for the shower glass. The expansion and contraction could reek havoc on the tile. Replacing it today.

@strutaeng wood flooring. But I do like the idea of going curbless when/if I build a shower in the basement.

Thanks for all the posts. Learned a bit more about mud job style showers. I might attempt it on the next shower I need to build. Properly sloping the cement base layer before the shower liner is intimidating so I’ve used the Schluter/Kerdi linear trays in the past. Between the tray, curb, linear drain, drain cover, and kerdi band it’s over $900 to do a schluter shower.

It seems to be a bit of an art laying down the concrete base layer with a correct slope to the drain. Is there a hack on getting that right for a first time DIY’r? Like some type of guide?

Just rip some 1x2 on a taper from out side shower edge to the drain. Match the drain height at the drain. Screw through the 3/4 inch part of the boards to the sub floor. Screed the mud base even with the top of the tapered 1x2. This is for the pre slope base. Remove the boards and fill in the spots where the screed boards were. Let dry and then place rubber membrane.

 

[jhrodd]

I've been using 2x4 curbs ( KD Fir) with drywall and Kerdi for the last 16 years with zero problems. Sometimes I rip the 2x's down if I'm using a pair of bullnose tiles on the curb and need a particular net width. The "age in place" house I'm building now will have 2 curb-less showers. My engineer wanted to know the weight of the shower pans! in this case I'm using Schluter foam pans so the weight is negligible.

 

[paredown]

I've been using 2x4 curbs ( KD Fir) with drywall and Kerdi for the last 16 years with zero problems. Sometimes I rip the 2x's down if I'm using a pair of bullnose tiles on the curb and need a particular net width. The "age in place" house I'm building now will have 2 curb-less showers. My engineer wanted to know the weight of the shower pans! in this case I'm using Schluter foam pans so the weight is negligible.

@Branimal-- I also used drywall with Kerdi for the whole install including curb and niche--this is a first for me; in past I have used cement board. I'm using small mosaic with Schluter strips--I had the local guys cut a full cap for the curb that matched the top of the pony wall (Synthetic quartz), but I will probably finish it in the same mosaic as the walls. TBD.

Curbless would be nice--but I wouldn't want to do it in the one I'm working on now.

I need to get back and finish my drypack base and finish the job--I got stuck on a plumbing problem (part of the old waste line failed--and I have been hoping that by leaving it for a while, I will come back to it with some better ideas on how to revamp) so the drain needs installing. Soon....

 

[xyster101]

This is what I did. I put mortar down first to slope the floor. Then membrane over the sloped floor. Any water that reaches the membrane can go into the special drain that has weep holes. This was based on all the research I did 8 years ago.
I am sure some techniques have changed. As for the wood expanding, it is under the membrane and should not be getting wet and not have the opportunity to expand.
I am only showing what I did. I moved a year after I did it, so I have no idea how well it has held up in the last 8 years.

 

[jetnow1]

We just did a curbless shower in an addition. The building inspector required a test fill
of the shower to show it did not leak, had to build a temporary curb in front to get the required 2 plus inches of water. Had to hold the water for 15 min before we could tile it.
First time I ever ran across that inspection, then again he did 5 inspections just on the foundation.

 

[branimal]

This is what I did. I put mortar down first to slope the floor. Then membrane over the sloped floor. Any water that reaches the membrane can go into the special drain that has weep holes. This was based on all the research I did 8 years ago.
I am sure some techniques have changed. As for the wood expanding, it is under the membrane and should not be getting wet and not have the opportunity to expand.
I am only showing what I did. I moved a year after I did it, so I have no idea how well it has held up in the last 8 years.

Xyster101 - your pic shows the concrete top layer wrapping all the way around the curb. Is that required?

 

[branimal]

Again, lots of great tips here guys! I think the sloped plastic guides will give me the confidence to attempt making my own shower base and get off the Schluter-Kerdi addiction.

thanks again.

 

[xyster101]

Xyster101 - your pic shows the concrete top layer wrapping all the way around the curb. Is that required?

I did 2x4's, then wire mesh and covered the wire mesh with the concrete. Then put the tile on top of the concrete.

 

[davo727]

This thread is relevant to me! Id like to jump in with some questions please.

Hey guys I have Oatey shower pan liner membrane---how far up the walls should it go? The piece I have now is only big enough to go up about 1 foot on the end walls and about 10 inches on the side wall.... but I could bond it to additional pieces, I have the Oatey adhesive.

I have bought durock type cement board for the walls, should it be inside of the membrane all the way to the sloped mortar mix pan? So there will be screws through the durock and through the membrane??? Cover screws with sealant or just the redguard?

Does the durock get covered by Redguard?

Thanks , Dave