Shower Light - How to access?

[gotwheels]

I have an Aquaglass Acrylic one piece shower with integrated ceiling. I thought the old CFL bulb was bad, as I flipped the switch and heard a crackling with light flickering to no light. The bulb is good. When I check for 120V a the bulb socket, I do not have 120V at center tab where the bulb seats, but I do have 120V at the side rivet for the tab. I assume the fixture has failed in some manner. How do you remove this fixture? The flanged piece of the can has to come out the bottom? I have not checked top access yet, as it is hot in a Mississippi attic and it will be ~2 feet + down to the can and not an easy location.

Any suggestions for a replacement light - the shower ceiling hole is ~6"? I am just a DIY guy and assume approximately 1000 lumens, "wet location" rating, LED, glass lens. What else and what Kelvin (daylight?) and CRI?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[sparky 1971]

The pictures look like its a remodel can, but I don't see the clips that lock it down to the ceiling. That makes me think that there is a friction fit frame installed. Try pulling down on the can while turning it back and forth.

As far as a new fixture, you'd probably be better off replacing the socket. It's gonna be a pain getting the frame out of the way, if that's actually what it is. It's a lot bigger than the hole and you'll have to reach in blind and take out the screws, nails, or staples holding it in unless you have attic access. Then you could put a remodel fan box in and use a shower rated disc light, but it's going to be close as far as covering the existing hole.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

Take the lamp socket out and replace it……. Just push in those two black spring claims and the entire piece should fall down. "IF" you can’t find the socket check out a HALO brand (H7 model?) recessed light can and that socket should fit.
I do NOT recommend pulling down the entire can because the friction clips may get damaged.

 

[billconner]

I agree with chuckster - the two black tabs on opposite sides of the socket should allow access to all electrical connections. Should be fixable.

 

[sparky 1971]

Take the lamp socket out and replace it……. Just push in those two black spring claims and the entire piece should fall down. "IF" you can’t find the socket check out a HALO brand (H7 model?) recessed light can and that socket should fit.
I do NOT recommend pulling down the entire can because the friction clips may get damaged.

If it's what I think it is, and it very well may not be, if he can get the socket to release by depressing those clips, the socket and the whip to connect it to the jbox will be flopping around above the ceiling. I don't ever recall seeing the friction fit style in a residential application, but I've put plenty of them in commercial buildings. It looks to me like it's the kind that has a head with the socket that clips to the trim housing. On trim out the socket head gets pulled out of the hole and clipped to the can. The the whole thing is then pushed into the friction ring. If the entire trim is pulled down, the head can then be unclipped and the socket will be easy to access.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

A ceiling light above showers is acceptable, as long as the light is rated for moist or damp locations and the bottom of the light fixture is at least 8 feet from the top of the shower stall.

Really?………. 8’ above the TOP of the shower stall would make that measurement 15’ to the light can housing.

BTW! Please educate me on the NEC section you are referencing.

 

[MongoTA]

The 8’ prohibition is for a ceiling light with anything hanging down…a pendant light, a chandelier, a light with a pull chain, etc. The intent is to prevent someone who slipped in the tub or shower from instinctively grabbing a part of the hanging pendant light and pulling it off the ceiling, exposing them to a possible shock hazard.
A flush mounted ceiling light can be within 8’ of the threshold, it simply needs to be damp rated, or if subject to direct spray, wet rated.

 

[DLP]

I have an Aquaglass Acrylic one piece shower with integrated ceiling. I thought the old CFL bulb was bad, as I flipped the switch and heard a crackling with light flickering to no light. The bulb is good. When I check for 120V a the bulb socket, I do not have 120V at center tab where the bulb seats, but I do have 120V at the side rivet for the tab. I assume the fixture has failed in some manner. How do you remove this fixture? The flanged piece of the can has to come out the bottom? I have not checked top access yet, as it is hot in a Mississippi attic and it will be ~2 feet + down to the can and not an easy location.

Any suggestions for a replacement light - the shower ceiling hole is ~6"? I am just a DIY guy and assume approximately 1000 lumens, "wet location" rating, LED, glass lens. What else and what Kelvin (daylight?) and CRI?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I have that same exact shower light assembly! Do you have a model/part number for the light assy.? I need to replace the circular lense/trim piece with the 3 plastic nuts holding it, but I can't find that light anywhere on the Internet... until now! I also may want to retrofit a new light assembly with LED or something, but haven't found any info that matches what I have as a replacement.

 

[Norcal]

If you look at the slots inside of the can the tabs holding it in place are visible through those slots, just press the tabs with a straight blade screwdriver as you pull down on the can working it down, it may require some "Industrial English" as you go but it will come.

 

[DLP]

Thanks for the help! I’m trying something different before tearing it out. Adjustable LED light retrofit for cans, If they won’t work I’ll try getting it out.

 

[generaltech]

I know this is an old post, but I found it searching for issues with my aquaglass shower light. OP did you have any luck fixing or replacing your light fixture?