Shower panel temperature knob wont turn properly
- Thread starter branimal
- Start date
75gmck25
Well-known member
All the newer anti-scald shower valves I've installed have a toothed piece inside so you can set the max hot water temperature and avoid scalding. You are supposed to turn the valve full on and then adjust the internal stop to set the max temperature. Maybe that stop on yours is broken inside and preventing full travel.
WillyBoy
Well-known member
If it's been there for a while, it's possible that a build up of minerals on the cartridge is blocking the full rotation of the cartridge. This is more likely if the knob doesn't get turned beyond that point in regular use. If it's new, then gmck's advise might be the correct solution.
kbuhagiar
Well-known member
And adding to that, did it work properly before? Does the dial feel like it's hitting a hard stop, or does it become more difficult to turn at that point?
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This might be of interest:
I called Vigo and they sent me instructions on how to
1. remove and clean the cartridge. (Soak in vinegar / water 50/50 solution.)
2. replace the cartridge.
To remove the knob and the black scald guard, I had to spray silicone lubricant (aerosol) on it. It was really stuck on there. The instructions say to remove the brass ring. I tried at first with pliers. Then with channel locks. For the life of me I couldn't get the cartridge out. So I flooded the accessible area of the cartridge with more silicone lubricant. Left it for an hour and tried to remove it. It wouldn't budge.
Should I use a different type of lubricant, penetrating oil to break the cartridge free?
Instructions and pictures below:
1. remove and clean the cartridge. (Soak in vinegar / water 50/50 solution.)
2. replace the cartridge.
To remove the knob and the black scald guard, I had to spray silicone lubricant (aerosol) on it. It was really stuck on there. The instructions say to remove the brass ring. I tried at first with pliers. Then with channel locks. For the life of me I couldn't get the cartridge out. So I flooded the accessible area of the cartridge with more silicone lubricant. Left it for an hour and tried to remove it. It wouldn't budge.
Should I use a different type of lubricant, penetrating oil to break the cartridge free?
Instructions and pictures below:
Attachments
DGersic
Well-known member
I’m not understanding the directions.
They seem to indicate that you’re supposed to remove this locking nut
or at least that’s what the second picture with the pliers shows, but then the third picture seems to still show the lock nut in place.
If that’s the right nut to remove, yes, I’d try penetrating oil on it. My preference is PB Blaster, but there are many others. Get one and hose it down, a few times. Let the oil soak. Tap it with a hammer from time to time, that can help get the oil in around the corrosion.
Vicegrip pliers may provide enough grab to turn the nut. Maybe. Regular slip joint, needle nose, or whatever those are in the picture, aren’t going to work. Maybe on a clean new unit at the factory, but not now. If there’s room, I’d probably just put a small pipe wrench on it.
Good luck pulling the old cartridge out with pliers. Again, probably worked ok at the factory on new parts, but you’ll likely need a lot more oomph than you’re going to get pulling on a pair of pliers. Moen sells a cartilage puller for their shower valves, something like that may work for this as well.
The last shower cartilage I replaced came out in tiny pieces, and took all night. I started in the evening, and went out for breakfast when it was done. Not what I had planned on, was supposed to be a simple remove old and install new.
They seem to indicate that you’re supposed to remove this locking nut
or at least that’s what the second picture with the pliers shows, but then the third picture seems to still show the lock nut in place.
If that’s the right nut to remove, yes, I’d try penetrating oil on it. My preference is PB Blaster, but there are many others. Get one and hose it down, a few times. Let the oil soak. Tap it with a hammer from time to time, that can help get the oil in around the corrosion.
Vicegrip pliers may provide enough grab to turn the nut. Maybe. Regular slip joint, needle nose, or whatever those are in the picture, aren’t going to work. Maybe on a clean new unit at the factory, but not now. If there’s room, I’d probably just put a small pipe wrench on it.
Good luck pulling the old cartridge out with pliers. Again, probably worked ok at the factory on new parts, but you’ll likely need a lot more oomph than you’re going to get pulling on a pair of pliers. Moen sells a cartilage puller for their shower valves, something like that may work for this as well.
The last shower cartilage I replaced came out in tiny pieces, and took all night. I started in the evening, and went out for breakfast when it was done. Not what I had planned on, was supposed to be a simple remove old and install new.
DGersic
Well-known member
Wait, now I see it. You’re meant to be removing this ring
Not the nut. They say needle nose pliers, but I’d want something more sturdy like a pin wrench.
Not the nut. They say needle nose pliers, but I’d want something more sturdy like a pin wrench.
@DGersic Thanks for the detailed write up!!! Really appreciate it.
I'll douse it with PB-Blaster. Maybe those needle nose pliers in the instructions are 90* bent needle nose pliers. I didn't see that until you highlighted it. I'll try both the adjustable pin spanner wrench and the 90* bent needle nose pliers.
I'll douse it with PB-Blaster. Maybe those needle nose pliers in the instructions are 90* bent needle nose pliers. I didn't see that until you highlighted it. I'll try both the adjustable pin spanner wrench and the 90* bent needle nose pliers.
