Side cabinet on a Kobalt tool chest

[gummycarbs]

I've got an older 41" Kobalt tool chest. It's from around 2004, and a very different design from current Kobalt chests. I'd like to add a side box, but I'm not sure if it will work. Both the top and bottom edges are rolled. I don't know if they're just rolled for strength, or if it's some attachment method I've never head of. From what I've seen of side cabinets, generally the side cabinet has the rolled lip to act as a hook over the flat edge of the tool chest.

So, does this type of construction make side cabinets unusable? Of course I could always screw (almost) anything to the side of it, but I'm curious what the proper or standard way of doing things might be.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Don't know of any type of side cabinet that the kobalt design would attach to that.

I'd just cut the top lip off and throw a masterforce (believe those actually come in black too) or HF side cabinet on. Also bolt the two sides together (will have to drill through one or both).

 

[gummycarbs]

Thanks. I'm reluctant to cut off the top lip because I suspect it's there for additional stiffness.

Since I'm actually making my own custom cabinet[1], I think I might try using the lower lip to support the bottom, and using the existing screw holes for the cabinet handle to support hold it in place.

[1] - Actually, I'm repurposing an existing one. It's an old Steelcase cabinet from 1975 that I found at the local government surplus for $20.

 

[gdocktor3]

There must have been some type of attachment available for that box when it came out. Did you do a google search on that model box to see what comes up? They probably designed the box like that so you have to use kobalt accessories. Something like this http://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-41-in-...aring-Stainless-Steel-Tool-Cabinet/1000014724

 

[gdocktor3]

If you cut that rolled edge off you will be able to use any side box. I doubt that rolled edge has anything to do with structural integrity. I bought this small husky side box off cl for $75. It's older and really well made.

 

[Hammer1963]

Look as if those radiuses serve a dual purpose. Strength and quite possibly as a slotted mechanism that allows a side cab with a male tongue to to slide into above the bottom and bellow the top bend to hold the cab in place. You could easily add tangs to any side cab and attach it securely to the cab itself using this method

 

[LXCam]

Look as if those radiuses serve a dual purpose. Strength and quite possibly as a slotted mechanism that allows a side cab with a male tongue to to slide into above the bottom and bellow the top bend to hold the cab in place. You could easily add tangs to any side cab and attach it securely to the cab itself using this method

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Just get some 1/8" x 1" or larger flat bar and bolt to you new cabinet and stand them off with some washers or nuts and slide it in place.

 

[Hammer1963]

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Just get some 1/8" x 1" or larger flat bar and bolt to you new cabinet and stand them off with some washers or nuts and slide it in place.

Exactly! Easy fix and should work great.

 

[SJR033]

Those rolled is the same as my Waterloo made Craftsman box.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-i...p-00901157000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

I have a side cab. The rolled edge is just bigger. It bolts to either side of the cabinet.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-dr...p-00911618000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

[gummycarbs]

Update: I used the lower lip to support the bottom and sandwiched the upper support between the Kobalt box and its handle.







The box is a small chest at the local government surplus outlet for $20. It's a Steelcase, made in 1975. I disassembled it, welded some thin angle iron to the bottom, and then some 14 gauge sheet that fits into the lip nicely. For the upper bracket, since I was out of suitable angle iron, I made it entirely out of 14 gauge sheet. If I were doing it over again, I'd have used the existing screw holes in the bottom and rivets at the top, simply because the heat of welding inevitably warps the thin steel. I painted it with Omni semi-gloss black (30 - 45% gloss, according to the label), which was a pretty good match for the Kobalt finish. It's wider than a typical side box, but it should be fine for the relatively lightweight stuff I'm going to put in it.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Looks good!