Side Vent Gas Heater Choice and Install Tips

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So, I researched the threads, can't really find a comparable setup to copy so I am asking for help. The calculators don't really help above 12ft ceiling either....

I have a 40x40 building, 17ft ceiling with a loft running the side and back corner. In the pic you see the black pipe hanging for the heater down to about 12ft from the deck. I was planning on a side vent gas heater and would like the kind that takes air from the outside.

I would like to angle the heater downward about 5 degrees, but that might be wrong and require louvers instead, not sure how they work tilted. I want the heat to blow towards the bar and back corner (where I stood to take the pic of the heater location) which should rise and keep the loft warm too. Very interested in a Wifi thermostat I can put near the bar area on the opposite side of the heater and control it while on travel and monitor the building.

Insulated to code, Pacific Northwest so coldest temps are high teens rarely, but very temperate the rest of the year 40's most of the time. Large doors are R-18 insulated. 5 4.0x5.0 windows on the second floor or up high around 3 sides of the building.

I know I was supposed to point the heater towards the door, but I didn't want it installed near the weld area or in the loft, this was wasted space for me so I thought it would be perfect to hang the heater... not much work going on near the big doors anyway.

Saw all of the threads on problems with safety switches and malfunctioning boards. Looking for recommendations on the size and type of heater, want to work around 60 degrees and keep the building around 45.

 

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I would like to hear the pro's POV on my install. I have one estimate at $2200 for a reznor 75K installed. I was shocked initially at that price considering the Mr. Heaters are on sale for $379 right now.

After thinking about it more... the side vent will need to be stainless, permits are $207, and my state apparently requires a licensed contractor to install NG appliances now. So for the right quality unit ~900 plus about 200 for venting and 207 for permits; his estimate is not far off. Maybe the only money I can save is hanging a unistrut and vibration isolators up before he gets here and help him hang it might save me a couple bucks.

My other concern is the building is pretty air tight. When I run my exhaust fan, it pulls the front door closed. I believe that means I have to have a separate burner chamber that pulls air from the outside correct?

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Damn, Crickets! Can someone answer as to whether a sealed combustion unit is required when the building is sealed up pretty well? Looking at the Mr. Heaters, but concerned that opening and closing the door will cause issues with the heater. Building is so tight that when I turn on my CANARM vent above the weld shop I have to open a window or leave a door open or it creates a vacuum.

Interested in the sale on Mr. Heater

 

[WP9]

Here is my experience with a Reznor direct vent heater(45k Btu) in my woodworking area.

Had it installed in 2002 and it has been running every winter(Michigan) since, with no maintenance in those 15 years.

In a woodworking area,a direct vent( sealed combustion chamber fed outside air) is a big benefit. First, any standard heater with a flame will result in adding moisture to the environment, which is not something you want with a lot of cast iron surfaces ion the machines. Secondly, when using flammable solvents and/or finishes an open flame is a potential safety hazard.
My unit was installed with the concentric vent exiting out the side wall, with a slight tilt to the outside to ensure condensation will exit to the outside.

As to the comparison to the other units, the sealed combustion chamber and the concentric vent kit add substantially to the cost of materials, so you need to compare other sealed combustion units. Also, the heat exchangers can be made of various different materials( aluminized steel, stainless steel, etc) so be aware of comparisons there too.

I went with Reznor as the contractor felt it was be best unit in his opinion. After 15 years of flawless service, I am happy enough that I am seeking to install another Reznor is the garage of my new home.
Best of luck in your search and decision making.

 

[Jackfre]

I will suggest the Rinnai EX38CT-NG. Floor mount and heat at floor. Only 38k btu, but I think you will be surprised at how well it will do in your climate. Vent comes with the heater. Programmable stat is built in with a set-back feature that allows you to maintain a temp as low as 38* on up in 2* increments. Sealed combustion, cool to the touch, simple install and bullet-proof.

 

[mrramsey]

Yes do a sealed combustion unit. $2200 ain't bad. I just had mine installed it was about $2600.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

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REZNOR UDAS 75 Ordered!!! Re: Side Vent Gas Heater Choice and Install Tips

After exhausting research and my lack of foresight that I could have just installed vent since I was finishing the garage like a house... I pulled the trigger and ordered the REZNOR UDAS 75 with separated sealed combustion chamber.

I plan to use the CC14 concentric vent kit with aesthetic terminal.

So if you look at my picture you can see the black iron pipe hanging down and the outlet for the heater at about 10ft. I have that outlet on a string of outlets and 4 LED can lights that draw about 8W each. It is too late for me to run a dedicated outlet for the heater and I am not sure why that is recommended since it doesn't draw much current. The outlets are 20A on a 20A service 12/2.

I am thinking for mounting purposes I don't want long **** hanging from the ceiling that far, that would be about 5 1/2 feet down from the 17ft ceiling. I plan to order CK-22 Ceiling suspension Kit and bolt it to the Quick-Sling Flush Mount Swivel System with H-Bracket, and hang the heater from an fabricated angle iron bracket between the king post of the 10ft door and the wall where the outlet is. The exhaust will be horizontal through that same wall.

My concerns at this time are:
1) Challenger 2 post lift going in 12ft from the left door in the pic. and in line with the door so the inside of the post is even with the inside of the door. That is where I poured extra 12" of concrete and rebar for the posts. If I have a truck up on the lift, or a long car, I am concerned about heater height and blasting heat on the vehicle... that's why I put a switch in line with that outlet.

2) Hanging Height; the spec shows bottom of heater either at 10ft, or at 12ft, the effective heat at floor is from 12ft to 22ft, just have to adjust the louvers. The air velocity at 12ft hanging height just drops from 52ft to 48ft. I am thinking this isn't a big deal because this unit should heat the space plenty.

3) Hanging Height; if I hang at 12ft to avoid heating cars on the lift, does that waste too much heat and overheat the loft areas making the second story unbearable?

Lift is installing Friday so I will take pics and update the thread so its easier to see.

OBTW, first $2200 estimate was for UDAP through the roof, he wouldn't return my call when I switched to UDAS horizontal. Second estimate was for UDAS Horizontal vent at $3,225.

I am now installing this thing myself...

Reznor UDAS -75 $1145.26 Reznorparts.com (+ $170 Freight)
Reznor UDAS Aesthetic Flush mounted vent kit UDAS/UDBS 30 - 75 $333.91
Reznor CK-22 Brackets $44 Ebay
Quick Sling Flush Mount Swivel - $101 QC Supply
County Permits for Homeowner Install - $207

Looking to see if the Ecobee Thermostat with remote wireless sensor will work on this UDAS so I can tap in to my Wink Hub...

 

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Anyone out there have a successful thermostat with wireless sensor for the REZNOR yet? I have searched the threads but nothing out there so far.

Also, anyone have any pointers on trimming out the Hardi Plank Siding when I punch through with a 6" vent? Don't know what I'm doing... but time to finger it out!

 

[D45]

$200 for a permit, wow

You will be very glad you decided to install it yourself, better quality and you will save a ton