sidewinder vs worm drive

[rlitman]

It's an older design, and you can see your cut line better, which (to me) makes it inherantly more precise than one you cannot.
Try this - take your choice of saw, line up your saw on your cut line, CLOSE YOUR EYES and make your cut. Sde how precise you can cut with your eyes closed.

I can cut a lot better with a worm than a sidewinder, because I can SEE where I'm going with it.

No arguments from me, but by the end of the first cut with a worm drive my arm is worn out. They're too darned heavy. Even a nice magnesium one like yours. I'm never selling my blade left (reverse spinning) PC 423 mag. I get the visibility of a worm and the lightness of a sidewinder.

However, different tasks are best done with different tools. I cut my interior remodeling and shed framing on my chop saw and use the circ saw mostly for panels (that I recently bought a track saw for, for ultimate accuracy). If I were stepping into the OP's project, I'd probably cut the framing with a normal blade right sidewinder. It's accurate enough and blade right lets you step on the workpiece while cutting. Blade left (like my PC, your worm, or my track saw) requires either a helper for holding, clamps or taking outsized risks, all of which really slow you down.

 

[oldwino]

I grew up using a Skil 77 and a sidewinder just feels wrong to be. It’s hard to change what you are accustomed to unless there is a big advantage to do so. You eastern guys can keep your funny saws

 

[Toomanytools?]

I have had a Skil for 35 years, whenever I use a sidewinder it feels dangerous mainly just not used to using it. I would stick with what you know at this point, you aren't going to really gain speed or efficiency at this point on one building.

 

[KnurledNut]

There are lots of you guys complaining about the weight of wormdrives.
Times have changed. The new Skils are lighter.
Assuming the OP would be buying a new one, the current Mag77 is 12.5 lbs.
Go weigh your trusty 7-1/4 sidewinder. You might be surprised that its not much lighter.

 

[BFBOB]

Blade right vs blade left ... Porter Cable has the answer. The 743 or 843 - 7 1/4" sidewinder identical except they're mirror images of each other. MOAO complained about my right-bladed saw, so I got her the Porter lefty - problem solved -- and amazingly enough, the right and left versions were the same price!

 

[billconner]

The concept of a blade left sidewinder for a right handed person is tough to visualize. I just see the piece held down with left hand or foot and cutoff to right. Trying to imagine the saw table on the cut off. Can't see holding saw in right hand and cut off falling to left. What am I missing?

This is all rough sawn pine, including 1x8-10-12 sheathing, so no panels. And I presume a lot of cuts in the air, trimming sheathing at wall corners and roof eaves.

Have to think if getting a cordless sidewinder is worth it, and if I can deal with blade left.

 

[mike93lx]

The concept of a blade left sidewinder for a right handed person is tough to visualize. I just see the piece held down with left hand or foot and cutoff to right. Trying to imagine the saw table on the cut off. Can't see holding saw in right hand and cut off falling to left. What am I missing?

This is all rough sawn pine, including 1x8-10-12 sheathing, so no panels. And I presume a lot of cuts in the air, trimming sheathing at wall corners and roof eaves.

Have to think if getting a cordless sidewinder is worth it, and if I can deal with blade left.

I completely agree. I bought a blade left cordless thinking it would be nice for sheet goods and it is terrible for framing. Blade right gets the weight under the supported side.

After getting a track saw, blade orientation for sheet goods became a non issue. The track saw is infinitely better

There are more options for.blade fight cordless sidewinders now and I'll probably grab one sometime soon

 

[Showkey]

It’s funny when this topic has come up prior ……..the idea of a cutting table or station with powered miter box saw was discussed vs cutting free hand, especially when 20-200 cuts were expected. Those that stated cutting station was their choice were flamed by the free handers as the station took to long .

 

[rlitman]

There are lots of you guys complaining about the weight of wormdrives.
Times have changed. The new Skils are lighter.
Assuming the OP would be buying a new one, the current Mag77 is 12.5 lbs.
Go weigh your trusty 7-1/4 sidewinder. You might be surprised that its not much lighter.

Now 11.5 lbs, which Skil claims is 4lbs lighter than the old 77SHD.

My PC blade left sidewinder is 9.6lbs. I wouldn't be nearly as happy using it if my largest ball peen hammer were permanently attached to it, and I'd be even less happy if it had three of them.

 

[billconner]

It’s funny when this topic has come up prior ……..the idea of a cutting table or station with powered miter box saw was discussed vs cutting free hand, especially when 20-200 cuts were expected. Those that stated cutting station was their choice were flamed by the free handers as the station took to long .

Seems the particulars can affect this. 2x4x8' kiln dried stud at around 10 pounds versus 2x10x16' rough sawn rafters at around 65 pounds. My lightest will be 2x6x8' - 25 pounds. Heaviest - 2x12x16' - 80 pounds. I'll have a chop saw and cutting station out there but not always the go to. Easier to cut some at the pile and move once.

 

[KnurledNut]

It’s funny when this topic has come up prior ……..the idea of a cutting table or station with powered miter box saw was discussed vs cutting free hand, especially when 20-200 cuts were expected. Those that stated cutting station was their choice were flamed by the free handers as the station took to long .

Thats because on a large jobsite the pros cut off the stack or take the saw to the task. They dont waste time and money handling materials multiple times. And then there is the practical aspect. How you plan on cutting a stack of TJI's with your miter box?

 

[mike93lx]

Thats because on a large jobsite the pros cut off the stack or take the saw to the task. They dont waste time and money handling materials multiple times. And then there is the practical aspect. How you plan on cutting a stack of TJI's with your miter box?

Most people are going to use a chainsaw for a stack of tji's anyway

 

[KnurledNut]

Most people are going to use a chainsaw for a stack of tji's anyway

Maybe the hacks.
The cut is too rough and makes for a sloppy rim joist connection.
Wouldnt recommend.
8-1/4 all day on those.

 

[mike93lx]

Maybe the hacks.
The cut is too rough and makes for a sloppy rim joist connection.
Wouldnt recommend.
8-1/4 all day on those.

I disagree, but to each his own

 

[Under_Pressure]

Honestly, if you are used to and happy with the sidewinder format, then there is probably not a compelling reason to change. That said, I grew up around sidewinders- my dad built our house when I was a little kid with a Milwaukee, and my grandpa used Makita. When I used to look at my dad's Tool Crib of the North catalogs in the early 90's and saw the worm drives, I thought it was the craziest thing I'd ever seen. When I got older I started with a sidewinder, as I inherited grandpa's Makita. However, the more I looked into it the more appealing a worm drive started to sound. Plus I liked that they seemed to be more traditional and built to last a lifetime. So I bought an HD77. Once I got used to it, it changed my life- I can't imagine going back to a sidewinder for a full size saw. The weight, power, reach, visibility- it just feels so natural now.

When I decided to get a full size cordless circular saw, being a Makita man I bought the highly rated 18Vx2 rear handle Makita, which has worm drive ergonomics and layout but the motor is mounted sidewinder style. I liked it, but it just never felt like my Skilsaw, so I ended up selling it and buying Skil's cordless worm drive. Now THAT is a heavy saw (for a modern 7 1/4")- a traditional worm drive chassis plus the weight of a 48V battery. But the power and performance is pure worm drive. So at this point I have the cordless worm drive, a corded Mag 77, that original HD77 (now with a Bigfoot 10 1/4" kit), and a Super Sawsquatch 16 5/16". Plus a Harbor Freight worm drive set up for concrete cutting. So yeah, if you're a person who clicks with the worm drive, it's hard to imagine doing it any other way.

 

[Wolley]

I like my makita magnesium 7.25 circular saw. You can see the blade just fine from the left side. I have built quite a bit with rough sawn material and if running a cord is an issue say on sheathing a roof or on staging I would go with a 6.5 inch 18v circular saw.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I have and use both types. The worm is a Milwaukee 8 1/4" and the circular is a Milwaukee 7 1/4" Tilt-lok. I use the worm for cutting concrete with a diamond blade. I also have a jig set up for cutting siding/soffit. The circular is what I use for most standard construction. The worm is big and heavy as others have already pointed out. It has tons of power and cuts a little less than an inch deeper. It works great for ripping ply/osb in stacks when squared up. The circular is far easier to make straighter cuts with. I also like the blade on the right side when cutting right handed (R hand on trigger). It's far lighter and better for cutting over head.

I just finished framing the walls of a garage for my buddy. The Tilt-loc got a lot of use and the worm drive stayed home.

 

[dr_clyde]

A circular saw isn’t a real high dollar tool. Just buy one of each, use them for a while and either sell the one you don’t like or keep it as a spare.

I have a Makita sidewinder. It just sits in the case because I prefer the ergonomics of the mag 77 worm drive.

You can buy one used from a pawn shop for like $50 and try it out.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Here in NYC the worm drive is the stable of the construction industry, I've never seen a sidewinder on a real job site. The wd is heavy duty & stands up to the abuse of uncaring operators. Go on a framing project & they all have side winders, fortunately the battery saws have become more capable & not dragging around a cord is a big plus. Any saw can cut good doing framing, the tolerances aren't that critical, you don;t need a track saw to frame. You have to walk the line between production & perfection.