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Siding Nails

mark2457

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Messages
179
Location
Chicago, IL
Hi All

Got all my framing and house wrap done before winter and now it's time for siding.

I'm using this siding which is https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...cedar-textured-lap-siding/p-1444438201199.htm

on top of that is 1/2 CDX plywood

The LP installation guide says: The framing shall be of adequate thickness to accept 1-1/2 inches of nail penetration

So I guess I need at least 2.5 inch

I have virtually every type of Bostitch nailer except a coil nailer. I'm wondering if I can use my framing nailer F28WW (correctly adjusted so it doesn't blow out the siding) and some nails like this S10DRGAL-FH

I don't want to rent one, as I need to do over 3-4 weekends so it's a lot back and forth

Regards

mark
 
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jhelrey

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Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
7,238
Location
MN
Need a nice tip on gun and a way to set depth. I rented and worked great. I caulked over every nail hole.
 

terry603

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Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Messages
377
a friend of mine used screws, told me it was a lot easier when working by himself this way
 

Cyberbear

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Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
1,524
Location
California
Whether you select nails or screws, you would be better off using stainless fasteners to avoid future rust stains. No use skimping on quality materials for your job. If you choose nails, use ring shank.
 

theoldwizard1

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,076
Location
SE MI
Siding nails are thinner than framing nails but have approximately the same size head.

Do yourself a favor. Use stainless steel nails. Nor rust streaking down you siding 5 years from now.
 

8mpg

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Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
350
I would just use roofing nails. James Hardie allows for them with their cement siding. I would assume its the same. 1 3/4" hot dipped galvanized nails. You should have 1.5" penetration if you are blind nailing them. Im assuming that nailing flange is 1/4" or so while the thicker part is 1/2".
 
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burnedonice

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Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
95
Location
Kansas City
siding nails are called siding nails for a reason, use the correct fasteners for the application. I use electro galv ring shank 2.25" nails when installing siding, but stainless is always best, especially where you live
 

CNGsaves

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Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
I would NOT use the "SmartSide" siding boards. They are the "new glorified masonite" **** that's been rotting on sides of houses for 30 years.

Better option is concrete hardiboard which will be lifetime installation. These go up with hidden nails which framing nailer is perfect tool to install with ringshank nails. Get yourself a DeWalt shearer to cut the concrete boards like butter.

However, if you "must" use the "SmartSide stuff" . . . .then pre-paint the entire board (including BACK, all edges and front) with 2 coats of primer. Then paint final color 2 coats on front and all edges BEFORE you install the boards. Any cut board ends get same treatment of prime/paint before you install. For all this board painting, setup up roller paint station and put wifey to work !! :D

Just use ringshank siding nails and CAULK every nail hole. Then primer paint 2 or 3 coats on all those caulked nail holes. Only then do you move on to final color 2 coats of paint.

P.S. Do NOT use cheap latex caulk. Get the better DAP caulk which will last.
 
Last edited:

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,076
Location
SE MI
.... pre-paint the entire board (including BACK, all edges and front) with 2 coats of primer.
This is best advice for any wood siding !

Use an "oil" based primer. The first coat can be thinned at about 4:1. Adding some boiled linseed oil to the first coat will also help preserve the wood.
 

James-W

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Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Messages
12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
I don't think I have ever seen someone using a nail gun on wood siding, I have only seen them use a hammer and nails. Even on these home improvement shows they use a hammer and nails. Not saying you can't use a nail gun, just that I have not seen it done.
 

KenC

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,576
Ideally your nail heads should not break the surface, but sit tightly against it. Sinking to make the head flush with the surface is OK. But, countersinking would require caulking. Caulk should only be used as a last resort IMO.

Read the install instructions. Gun is OK, IF it has a good depth adjustment to adhere to the above.

If you do use Hardi, or similar, the nail is never supposed to break the surface.
 
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