Siding Question

[Coach James]

I'm pricing a stick built storage building. Not a garage , just an 8x10 building. What works well for siding? T-111, plywood, Hardiplank?

Thanks

Coach

 

[2LTim]

It's pretty much personal preference Coach. What do you have on your other buildings? All materials work well for their intended purpose. What do you want it to look like, and how long do you want it to last? Also, how much do you want to spend?
Tim

 

[PurdueSD]

For a yard barn, i would go with T-111 or corrugated pole barn steel. Hardie goes up much slower and costs more, but it does look damn good!

 

[sparky1562]

T-111 if your not trying to match the house. James Hardie also makes a sheet material. My mom just had her shed re-done with it and it looks good. Not sure what she paid. It won't rot out like the old wood siding that was on it.

Hard to beat the Hardie lap siding. I have it on the house and the garage. Looks really good.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I'm pricing a stick built storage building. Not a garage , just an 8x10 building. What works well for siding? T-111, plywood, Hardiplank?

Thanks

Coach

I'd probably go with the hardi myself. May as well be happy with the finished product.

 

[naki kid]

go with the good old hardi products they have been useing james hardy products in new zealand for the last 70 years.

 

[mikeyr]

front half of my garage is Stucco, the new half is Hardy and it looks great, so good my wife suggested when I finish siding that maybe I should remove the stucco on the front half and do that half also in Hardy planks.

 

[kbs2244]

You have to think about the purpose and life expencty of the building.
The Hardy stuff, while real good, is expensive.
It will cost you as much as the rest of the building.
If you plan to die at this house and want the building to last longer than you then Hardy makes sense.
But T-111 will last 25-30 years if painted evey few years.
And if you plan to move, it may make sense.

 

[mulepackin]

I used "real" T-111 on my storage shed, 11x18 ft. I have it stained with a Behr semi-transparant stain, which I plan on reapplying every couple years. Don't get the crappy masonite type T111 they sell at Home Depot, etc. Use the real plywood type. If you ever decide to side the shed, the T-111 then can serve as a fine sheathing if maintained properly.

 

[Coach James]

Thanks for the responses guys.

kbs, you're correct, the hardi siding cost almost as much as the rest of the materials when I priced it out.

This will be the first stand alone building we have at this house. We bought it about 5 years ago and have been using the garage for storage but I need to get mowers etc out to make room for more tool stuff. I also want to get all the chemicals and paint away from the house and kids.

My dad and I put the masonite t111 siding on the shed we built at his house ~35 years ago and it has held up well but it does wick up some water. Plus I just don't like it as much as wood.

I'm leaning toward the plywood t111. It's several $$$ a sheet less than Hardi plank and actually a few dollars less than the masonite t111 at our Lowes.
My intention is to live in this house the rest of my life but I don't see me outliving t111 plywood as long as I take proper care of it.

Mule, I like your building. I'm thinking of the same basic design as yours except with a larger door to make it easier to get the mower in and out. I have a cousin in Montana. He works as a sports broadcaster for KPQX radio.

Coach

 

[mulepackin]

Coach that pic doesn't show it so well, but that door is 42" wide. I can get my mower, wheelbarrow and just about everything else I need to in there with ease. The "hayloft" doors allow me to store my canoes up in the attic, and get other long items in the main part. I based the shed on plans from Popular Mechanics. I can post the link if you would like. Had the window left from my father in laws kitchen remodel. I'd been kicking it out of my way for about 10 years then used it here. It's nice to have some light. The odd size kept me under the building code min. for a permit.

 

[IDASHO]

go with the good old hardi products they have been useing james hardy products in new zealand for the last 70 years.

Uh, no they havnt.

Their cement siding products have only been available since the 1980's

Prior to that the company was a tannery.

Read about it here....

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/companyInformation_history.shtml

 

[b10751]

I'd like to have that link to the Popular Mechanics shed! I'm gathering info to start my 16x16 shed. Thanks!!

 

[Coach James]

Hi mule,

A link to the plans would be excellent and greatly appreciated. If my shed turns out as nice as yours did, I will be very pleased.

Coach

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Your still going to need some kind of plywood under the Hardi board. That kind of kills it for cost. I do think it would look better longer.

Build it 8X12 if you can. You won't be sorry that you did. The plywood comes in 4 foot sheets so you are only adding 1 sheet total for the sides and 1 or 2 for the roof and floor. 6 or so 2x4s and a bundle of shingles. The price difference is minimal if you look at it.

If you decide on Hardi plank I believe it comes in 12 ft lengths so there will be no waste on the sides. The four foot off the back can be used on the front around the doors.

You could even go 8'7" X 12'7" If you figure in the trim on the outside. That will take another sheet of plywood for the roof and floors, but that will leave some plywood waste for shelves.

Glen
________
Yamaha Virago 1100 history

 

[Kevin54]

Why not vinyl siding? T1-11 can delaminate over time if not properly maintained. Also cedar siding is not all that expensive other than the typical staining every few years, but that has to be done with any wood product. Hardi would last a lifetime, but more money upfront. There are pros & cons to almost any materail.

 

[JMURiz]

I used Hardi on my 5x6 shed, looks great and matches my garage perfectly. I got the hardi nippers to cut it...no dust cloud of carcinogens like with a masonry blade on a circular saw.

 

[mulepackin]

Coach, here's the link to the Popular Mechanics plans that I used and altered to suit my needs:http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/home_improvement/1276536.html

I obviously made mine larger, vented the peak of the roof, added the window I had, and put in the hayloft doors. I particularly liked the truss plan. All in all a good basic plan to work from. When you get underway, if you have any specific questions, feel free to pm me, I'd be glad to help.

 

[mulepackin]

One other thing, I didn't build the door with tongue and groove pine. I just used more T111 and used pine for the border and divider pieces. Much cheaper, just as effective, and still looks okay I think.

 

[Tyrol67]

Our local lumber yard carries a douglass fir T111 version, whereas you will find the cheaper souther pine versions at the big box stores. There is a price difference, but you get better quality and longevity . I used a fir plywood for my lower level before siding and left it exposed all winter before it was sided. Nothing warped, it held up great. For ply wood it was only about $2 more per sheet and well worth it. Keep it off the ground and use the 'z' channel on horizontal seams to minimize water intrusion.

Hardie siding is great also but more expense and time.

 

[cbaileyau]

I just built a 10x12 in my backyard. I used a product called smart siding LP (or the likes), It's osb with one side molded and primed to look like verticle tounge and groove. I think it was like $20 a sheet. I got it at the HD.

I am going to post a write-up of the whole build in a couple of days.

 

[JMURiz]

I just built a 10x12 in my backyard. I used a product called smart siding LP (or the likes), It's osb with one side molded and primed to look like verticle tounge and groove. I think it was like $20 a sheet. I got it at the HD.

I am going to post a write-up of the whole build in a couple of days.

I used that to build the door on my shed (pictured above) should be a good match to make it look like my carriage-door style garage door. My plan was to make a mini-garage for my yard-tools and it came out great.

With that OSB, you'll need to be sure to treat it with some good waterproof stain or exterior paint.

 

[arbee]

I considered T-111 but saw too many examples of it rotting out around the bottom. Check out my project which uses hardi plank on the gables and hardi-panel + miratec battens everywhere else: