Signed the papers. 28X64x10

[duneslider]

I feel like paint is more durable and holds up better. Looks like a great shop!

 

[rwilly]

It should be wrapped up this weekend.

Now, what color should it be?
My 1st choice was red with white trim.
Now I’m leaning towards forest green with black trim.
The doors and windows are white.
The roof is black.

What type of primer and paint, Oil based or water based?

I figure this is a pretty important step which I didn’t think about until now.

The garage is located on a separate lot, I want to eventually build a house, so obviously, the paint doesn’t need to match anything yet.
I’ll paint the house to match the garage.
Located in the PNW, I plan on having lots of foliage on the property.

 

[egdede]

....The garage is located on a separate lot, I want to eventually build a house, so obviously, the paint doesn’t need to match anything yet.
I’ll paint the house to match the garage....

What a nice big building. I am surprised how WA (which I consider a 'hi-regulation state like CA where I live) allows you to build a shop without a house. That seems to stymie many even in 'lo-reg. areas. Are you zoned for agriculture?

 

[rwilly]

I’m on 4 acres that is 1 lot in an area that is all subdivisions, or soon will be.
THe garage is about 150’ away from my current house but I plan on breaking it up into a couple lots and will build a new house next to the garage.

This is what I hope to achieve some day, how it actually plays out could possibly be something totally different.

 

[rwilly]

Gutters…..

Is there a code for gutter size and number of downspouts?
I want to run my gutters to one end of the garage , that’s about a 68’ run.
Would 1 downspout on 2 corners handle that much water?
I’m having 6” gutters installed and 3x4” downspouts.
I’d like to have all the water run to the downhill side, into some underground pipes that drain into a small pond.

Wha ya think?

 

[rwilly]

Now that i have a garage, I can sell my shipping containers and trusses.
Any interest here?
Located near Seattle.

 

[zc15]

Any new pictures of the progress? Are you going to start a thread over in the Garage Gallery forum?

 

[CombatNinja]

Gutters…..

Is there a code for gutter size and number of downspouts?
I want to run my gutters to one end of the garage , that’s about a 68’ run.
Would 1 downspout on 2 corners handle that much water?
I’m having 6” gutters installed and 3x4” downspouts.
I’d like to have all the water run to the downhill side, into some underground pipes that drain into a small pond.

Wha ya think?

There are online calculators you can use to determine required gutter sizes and # of downspouts. It takes into consideration roof pitch, size and zip code to determine the max rain rate in inches per hour. A good rule of thumb is that for most any place you need gutters, a max of about 40 linear feet per downspout is a good working number. I don't think you are likely to be able to empty 68' of gutter with a single downspout. Any reason you can't drop one halfway at the 34' mark?

 

[rwilly]

I will put some pics in the gallery.

The gutter guys put up 6” gutters with 3x4 downspouts, the DS are only on one end of the shop. They assured me that it could handle the amount of rain we get.
There is also a Shurflo gutter guard in place.
I hope they are right.

I plan on running the DS into underground pipe and digging a small pond. I can plant a willow or maybe some cedar trees to soak up the water.

 

[rwilly]

I’ve got my trusses and cans for sale. What would you say these trusses can clear span?
Is there a simple formula? They are 2X4 construction .

Thanks

 

[rwilly]

Primed and ready for paint. It was
Going to be red, but that got shot down, then I was going with a dark grey, but my girl said I should go with lighter color because the roof is black.
Maybe I’ll go with a variation of blue.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Where you live I'd go with some kind of medium green with a light trim. But that's just my opinion and you know what those are worth!

 

[dougf]

Your shop looks fantastic, congratulations! Blue with white trim always looks great!

 

[rwilly]

I ended up going grey, or “Dovetail” as they call it.
I started with a real dark blue, but my girl wanted grey. I’m not too particular about the color, I’m just happy I have a shop. The door trim will be black to match the rest of the trim. I’ll get some power to it, maybe a little landscaping and I’m in business!

 

[wmihl]

Gutters…..

Is there a code for gutter size and number of downspouts?
I want to run my gutters to one end of the garage , that’s about a 68’ run.
Would 1 downspout on 2 corners handle that much water?
I’m having 6” gutters installed and 3x4” downspouts.
I’d like to have all the water run to the downhill side, into some underground pipes that drain into a small pond.

Wha ya think?

I do agree with CombatNinja with the 40' rule as that is what we use when designing Self Storage buildings. Though my parents house only has 4 down spouts for a split-level ranch. Two only take from the forward facing gable, lets call that the North end and then the other two take the rest of the house which has the gable running the length like your garage all the way to the South end. they have 5" gutters and 4x3 downs. Over 70' in length including the one side of the upper gable.
Zip code is 53590, built in 1972 by my dad and his friends who framed houses and build Road Star Inn hotels.

 

[quakerj]

I ended up going grey, or “Dovetail” as they call it.
I started with a real dark blue, but my girl wanted grey. I’m not too particular about the color, I’m just happy I have a shop. The door trim will be black to match the rest of the trim. I’ll get some power to it, maybe a little landscaping and I’m in business!

I actually like the color, and the contrast with the trim looks great. Congrats, now the real fun begins.

 

[rwilly]

Thanks everyone!

 

[rwilly]

Power!

The garage is about 150-200’ from the house main panel. I got a quote of $6-$8K to get power to my garage. That’s not going to happen.
What was your experience to get power to detached garage?
I have a mini excavator to dig a trench.
I was thinking I could mount the breaker box, dig the trench, and buy the appropriate conduit. I could do everything except hook up the lines.
Sounds simple enough.
Thanks

 

[JimH74]

My shop is about 200 feet from the meter. I paid about $7000 eight years ago to upgrade my service from 200 amp to 400 amp (I think it's actually a 320 amp loop). $2000 of the 7000 was for a rock saw to trench through our rocky "soil". Placed a 200 amp panel in the shop and two temporary outlets. I think you've got the right idea though. It sounds like you've got the right equipment for the trench. I helped wire my SIL's shop this past year. Did it all ourselves, except hooking up to main box. Paid an electrician to come out and inspect everything. He said we did a better job-neatness and layout wise, than his crew would have. Time is money for a business. We had plenty of time to carefully do a very neat, clean job.

 

[quakerj]

Power!

The garage is about 150-200’ from the house main panel. I got a quote of $6-$8K to get power to my garage. That’s not going to happen.
What was your experience to get power to detached garage?
I have a mini excavator to dig a trench.
I was thinking I could mount the breaker box, dig the trench, and buy the appropriate conduit. I could do everything except hook up the lines.
Sounds simple enough.
Thanks

I had about a 75' run to my detached garage. Rented a 24" hydraulic trencher from Home Depot which made quick work of it, I was done and had the cable fed in about 4 hours.

I used 2-2-2-4 AL mobile home feeder cable which allowed me to run underground and inside the building. It's good for 90A service to the garage. Most types of underground cable can't be used past where it enters the building, so requires a junction to convert to the appropriate indoor rated wire. The MHF cable pretty much covers all the bases. It's also rated for direct bury, but I opted to put it in 1-1/2" PVC conduit. The 1-1/2" was a tight squeeze with that wire, but perfectly manageable with one person at each end pushing/pulling.

At that length of run you'll probably have to consider voltage drop issues which can be overcome by either upsizing the wire, or derating the service. I think there's online calculators for that, and an electrical forum might be of some help. Check your local codes, but most places require 18" burial depth for cable run in conduit, or 24" for direct bury.

I can't fathom needing > 100A service for a residential outbuilding, unless you have multiple people working or are in a commercial/business environment. I consider the 90A service to mine to be massive overkill, but it's there if I ever need it. I actually installed a 60A breaker in the main house panel that feeds the shop because they're $16 versus $80 for a 90A breaker. I won't even come close to approaching the 60A.

FWIW the cable was about $4/ft, and conduit isn't cheap either, about $20 a 10' stick for 1-1/2" IIRC.

 

[rwilly]

Thanks for the info.

 

[Sturgeon]

As other's have stated, western Washington isn't building friendly, nothing new their. Your excited about build and moving forward, looks good. Red would be great.

 

[rwilly]

While I have no problems with leaving the studs exposed, and not having insulation, I’ve been thinking about interior paneling.
At my last place I put old cedar fence boards through a planer, nailed them horizontally across the wall and it looked great.
I’ve been researching Cottonwood for interior use. From what I can gather, it seems Cottonwood is fine as long as it doesn’t get wet. Some of the old barns on the east coast were built with Cottonwood logs.
I could have it milled at 3/4” X 8”, various lengths. I think it would look good and I like being able to drive a nail or screw wherever I want.
My concerns would be twisting, and after the planks dried, would I be able to drive a nail through it without cracking?
Would the Pacific NW weather affect the planks?


Anybody have any experience with Cottonwood?
What’s the consensus?

Thanks again!

 

[rwilly]

I ended up going with Cottonwood milled at 3/4” X7”.
I think it looks pretty good. I put R19 in the walls.
Now I’m going to insulate the ceiling.
I want to make sure the trusses will support a ceiling first.

Common trusses.
24” oc
28’ OA span
2X4 construction

I’m planning on R30 supported by the thinest, lightest, least expensive, material I can find.

I thought I saw some 1/4” plywood at Lowes for about $16 sheet.

Today all I saw was 7/16” OSB.

What can you tell from this drawing?
Thanks!


The OSB would pretty heavy.

 

[SKIPPINROCKS]

10 PSF (pounds per square foot) is the rating.

 

[rwilly]

10 PSF (pounds per square foot) is the rating.

Thanks!
The trusses will support 7/16” OSB, but I’m going to keep looking for something lighter.
There’s a Home Depot close by that has some 1/8” ply available, I’ll check on that and see if it’s rigid enough to span 24”.

 

[SKIPPINROCKS]

Thanks!
The trusses will support 7/16” OSB, but I’m going to keep looking for something lighter.
There’s a Home Depot close by that has some 1/8” ply available, I’ll check on that and see if it’s rigid enough to span 24”.

I think that may be too thin. Your truss sheet specified bottom cord bracing being rigid ceiling or bracing. Not sure if they braced it too spec yet

 

[rwilly]

I think that may be too thin. Your truss sheet specified bottom cord bracing being rigid ceiling or bracing. Not sure if they braced it too spec yet

They are done working on it long ago.
The only bracing that I can see is some 1x4s that run the length of the garage on top of the bottom cord.

If 1/8” isn’t rigid enough, there’s gotta be some 1/4” available somewhere.

 

[rwilly]

What about chicken wire to hold up the insulation?
Is this a thing, or is my cheap/lazy brain thinking too much?
The first drawback I see is, every time I shut the man door, a piece of insulation would “blow up” with the pressure?

What ya think?

 

[rwilly]

What about chicken wire to hold up the insulation?
Is this a thing, or is my cheap/lazy brain thinking too much?
The first drawback I see is, every time I shut the man door, a piece of insulation would “blow up” with the pressure?

What ya think?

As I was sitting in the HD parking lot, thinking how I was going to put up 7/16” OSB by myself, or if chicken wire was the better route, I got an email from a friend showing me “Insulation Supports” available from HD, and they were in stock!
I bought the supports.
I’ll report back how it goes.

 

[rwilly]

I ended up using a thin wire that’s comes in a roll about 75’ long.
I put a screw in every truss and ran the wire the length of the garage.
The insulation stays up by itself for the most part because it’s so light, but the wire will make sure it stay where it’s supposed to be.
While a clean, white ceiling would be nice, this is working out just fine.

 

[Klokwerk]

Seems that turned out fine. Enjoyed following along with your build.
Did you end up running power from the house or a new service? When I did mine it was easier and cheaper to just have a new meter/service installed.

 

[rwilly]

I ran power from the house.
I called the power company and they weren’t much help, the local contractors were way to expensive, so I figured I’d just do it myself.

I’m happy with how it came out. Now I can work in it, instead of on it.