SikaFlex issue

[biggziff]

I used SikaFlex 1CSL to fill the relief cuts in my slab. Slab was poured October 2017. I used closed cell backer rod to fill the cuts to a depth of 3/8" or so and filled the cuts with SikaFlex. Temps were in the high 60s, low humidity (slab temp was 67 degrees) I filled to level or just beyond for most of the cuts. I let it cure for 6 days. Many of the cuts cured to where the sealant was above level by 1/4" or more. I used a razor floor scraper to cut it all to level. This revealed many air bubbles that look crappy and will fill with debris, etc. The whole idea was to keep the cuts from being unsightly and filling with ****.

I haven't contacted Sika yet, but thought I'd ask here if anyone has any input on this.

My only thought is to dribble or brush a little more sealer into the air bubbles and hope it levels OK.

Thanks

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Contact Sika regarding the shaving. Do an experiment on the dribble before going all-in.

 

[outdoorspace]

Well, I had the same problem with the SikaFlex. I haven't cut it flush yet and after hearing there are probably bubbles inside I probably won't.

Let us know how it turns out for you, though.

 

[biggziff]

Ya, this *****. Followed their videos, .PDF install tutorial, etc.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

personally I would not use that self-leveling stuff it’s more of a hassle than it’s worth

What I would do being the **** person that I am is that I would put blue tape on both sides of the joint, lay the sealant in there a little heavy then take a plastic putty knife and scrape it flush and smooth.....then pull the tape


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[biggziff]

personally I would not use that self-leveling stuff it’s more of a hassle than it’s worth

What I would do being the **** person that I am is that I would put blue tape on both sides of the joint, lay the sealant in there a little heavy then take a plastic putty knife and scrape it flush and smooth.....then pull the tape


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Little late for me, but thanks for the input.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

Little late for me, but thanks for the input.

Cant you cut it out and start over?


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[biggziff]

Cant you cut it out and start over?


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Can I? Maybe. Do I want to? Nope.

 

[Lonnies Performance]

personally I would not use that self-leveling stuff it’s more of a hassle than it’s worth

What I would do being the **** person that I am is that I would put blue tape on both sides of the joint, lay the sealant in there a little heavy then take a plastic putty knife and scrape it flush and smooth.....then pull the tape


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That is exactly what I did.... Worked great.

 

[Mustang1167]

I had the same issue when filling cracks in my slab. You can put another bead over the original without any issues. That is what I did and you can see the second bead if you bend down and look but it’s not terribly noticeable. But I did do it before the original bead fully dried.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

Can I? Maybe. Do I want to? Nope.

It would take like 5 minutes to cut that out and it would be easier to start fresh rather than trying to fill the holes

But in my opinion it depends on how **** you are because personally that would bother me and I’d rather just cut it out and start with a clean slate. I do a lot of caulking though so I’m constantly looking at caulk joints and criticizing them


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[Armorpoxy]

If it continues to bug you, and you do decide to remove it, we offer a Flexible Joint Filler which you pour into the joint (mask both sides first) through a disposable funnel. When cured, scrape/cut off the excess and remove the tape.

We have never had a report of bubbling with this product, but we also do recommend the Sika product and not aware of your bubbling issues being reported to us.