Sill plate anchor bolts

[Wiebster]

I’m just getting started on my shop build and already got questions. I’ve always had j bolts set in concrete when still wet. I let my concrete contractor talk me into leaving them out for easier finishing. Now I’m ready to anchor down the sill and not 100% sure on the process. I’m familiar with code for depths and spacing but not s few in anchors. I ordered 5/8” x 8” Simpson screw in anchors, but do I need large washers also or is their head large enough. Any advice on their use would be appreciated.

 

[Wolley]

Simpson usually has clear instructions on their website. I bet those are a lot more expensive than j bolts.

 

[Hooked]

Have you considered all thread rod and epoxy to set them? May save any 'oops' with hole size using screw-in anchors.
Personally, I would use a large washer with the screw-in anchors.

 

[Innovate1]

I did all thread for a few places the concrete crew missed. Don't remember all the details but used epoxy packs that you simply drive the rod into to break the package and activate.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I have an anchor drill and plenty of anchors and threaded rod around, so I drilled for cinch anchors and ran them through the base block, sole plate and out through the top plate every four feet and clamped that baby down. There is 1/2” OSB sheathing on the outside and 1/2” plywood on the inside. I live in hurricane country.

 

[jack stand]

Those Simpson "bolts" are tapcons on steroids. Their website should answer your question about approval for your sill plates.
No matter your method at this point, your drilling a hole. I'd just cordless impact the Simpson into the hole vs wedge, epoxy or any other after pouring solution.

 

[LopezBart]

For my steel-framed building, I drilled 9/16" holes and used Simpson epoxy to glue in 1/2" rods. There are procedures for cleaning the holes, etc. that must be followed. I did have to slightly oval out one of the holes when the SDS drill drifted on a hard junk of aggregate. I've also added a couple of wedge anchors which worked fine as well. Follow the directions on the epoxy or anchors. Those screw-in Simpson anchors need washers.

 

[JasonMcElroy]

I just had a pad done for a small outdoor space I'm building.

Some of the poured-in j-bolts ended up interfering with my framing layout so I cut them off flush and put in wedge bolts.

Simple enough.

What are some of the reasons one would prefer j-bolts other than price?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[jack stand]

No ******** drilling concrete and wedge anchors dont work 100% of the time. Then if there's rebar in the slab. I always seem to find it when drilling!

 

[LopezBart]

Then if there's rebar in the slab. I always seem to find it when drilling!

BEFORE they pour concrete, double check hole location w/ rebar placement. If you need to, either move (or have them move) the rebar slightly to avoid this problem. There are also drills made that will apparently deal with both concrete and rebar successfully; I've not needed to do so. "Prior planning prevents piss poor performance" is a real thing when it comes to concrete .

 

[jack stand]

I don't let the flat work guy talk me out of j bolts!

 

[Innovate1]

I just had a pad done for a small outdoor space I'm building.

Some of the poured-in j-bolts ended up interfering with my framing layout so I cut them off flush and put in wedge bolts.

Simple enough.

What are some of the reasons one would prefer j-bolts other than price?

Thanks,
Jason

Less work than others. Just stick them into the wet concrete. No drilling or other fuss.

 

[LopezBart]

Less work than others. Just stick them into the wet concrete. No drilling or other fuss.

This works well for stick-built places, since exact j-bolt location for sill plates isn't critical and you can mark out the spots on the forms ahead of time. Hold downs for shear do require more accurate positioning. For steel buildings, the anchors bolts aren't always located on the perimeter, and locations tolerances are tighter in order to match the holes in the framing. Precisely locating anchor bolts is tricky; I did end up using a 1/2" diameter carbide burr in a die grinder to oblong a couple of holes (out of 48) for a better fit.

 

[gtae07]

Hold downs for shear do require more accurate positioning.

When I built my shop I used some brackets attached to the forms to hold the bolts in place before the pour. Finishing was a little harder but it meant they were all in exactly the right place.

 

[Innovate1]

This works well for stick-built places, since exact j-bolt location for sill plates isn't critical and you can mark out the spots on the forms ahead of time. Hold downs for shear do require more accurate positioning. For steel buildings, the anchors bolts aren't always located on the perimeter, and locations tolerances are tighter in order to match the holes in the framing. Precisely locating anchor bolts is tricky; I did end up using a 1/2" diameter carbide burr in a die grinder to oblong a couple of holes (out of 48) for a better fit.

I added a couple anchors for shear on the wall with the OHDs. I doubt the AHJ would have said anything but it seems like a good idea with the amount of door area in that wall. As I recall I used epoxy that was in a caulking tube type package.