Sill plate wall plate different dimensions?

[hunttuxcat]

Hello! Been lurking for a bit, but figured I would create an account and ask some questions.

so... building a 30x40 shop. 2x4 walls on icf frost wall.

the concrete guys popped in some J bolts when they poured the icf, and unfortunately didn't realize I was doing 2x4 walls. So the bolts aren't centred for a 2x4 plate.
Is there any issue with going to a 2x6/8 bottom plate and keeping the 2x4 studs?

or should I just cut done the bolts, drill, and epoxy new anchor bolts to fit the 2x4s.
Thanks!

 

[readhead]

Either solution would work fine. A 2x6 bottom plate might be easier and less expensive than buying epoxy and new bolts.

 

[brownbagg]

run the 2x down the center of the icf

 

[hunttuxcat]

run the 2x down the center of the icf

I figured that would mess up the truss placement since those are prebuilt based on the outside framing dimensions

if it doesn't matter for the truss, I suppose that's the easiest solution.
Or as redhead states, just use wider plates

 

[billconner]

I think I would do the 2x6 PT sill. It will make assembling the wall on the slab a little harder. Or double sill - anchor pt 2x6 and build wall with a 2x4 sill.

 

[hunttuxcat]

anchor pt 2x6 and build wall with a 2x4 sill.

Does the wall plate need to be held by the anchor bolts holding the the pt sill? I was assuming it needed to be anchored to the foundation as opposed to just nailed to the PT sill.

 

[billconner]

I *think* it's ok to nail the second sill to anchored sill. I believe the sheathing nailed to or sill - or siding - is adequate and a lot stronger than the nailed studs.

 

[CraigStu]

Does the wall plate need to be held by the anchor bolts holding the the pt sill? I was assuming it needed to be anchored to the foundation as opposed to just nailed to the PT sill.

I would check your local codes on that one. I would assume the same as you and wouldn't want to find that out from the inspector.

 

[readhead]

If you use a 2x4 plate on top of a 2x6 plate you will still hit the anchor bolts. A single 2x6 plate would be sufficient.

 

[billconner]

What are you using for sheathing or siding and can you fasten it to the bottom sill? 1/2" or thicker ply/OSB nailed every 8 to 10 inches into sill will do much more to hold wall to bolted sill than the nails connecting studs and sill. Run a few structural screws through upper sill into lower if you want extra.

 

[41plym]

Can still get the anchors in a 2x4? I don't think it matters if they are in the center.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Yes 2x6 bottom sill if fine. Why aren't you using 2x6 for the entire wall, cost saving?

 

[billconner]

Can still get the anchors in a 2x4? I don't think it matters if they are in the center.

I don't disagree but I believe IRC says middle third. Guessing they are 2 3/4" from edge for 2x6, so not middle third if 2x4. I imagine it's a detail that is not too scrutinized often.

 

[hunttuxcat]

single 2x6 plate would be sufficient.

Yeah- that's where I'm leaning now.

 

[hunttuxcat]

What are you using for sheathing or siding and can you fasten it to the bottom sill? 1/2" or thicker ply/OSB nailed every 8 to 10 inches into sill will do much more to hold wall to bolted sill than the nails connecting studs and sill. Run a few structural screws through upper sill into lower if you want extra.

Yeah- easy enough to lap the sheathing and tie when I slap it on.

 

[hunttuxcat]

Why aren't you using 2x6 for the entire wall

Partly cost saving, partly just cause I don't "need" it since I'm insulating the outside. I'll have a wood stove in the garage, so I'm not too worried about loading up the inside cavity.
The plans also call for 24oc (2x4). I was surprised by that, but I guess it's totally acceptable for a single story garage.
I was putting together the project earlier in the summer when prices were at their worst, so costs were a factor when planning. Less so now that it's time to do it...

 

[hunttuxcat]

Guessing they are 2 3/4" from edge for 2x6, so not middle third if 2x4.

When I realized and asked the guys that did it, they just did it out of habit cause they use a 2x10 pt standard on 6" icf.

the main issue is just me not knowing what I don't know, and not making sure everything is flowing properly.
I'm sure it won't be the first time in this process. There are solutions/work arounds to every problem I suppose, I just want to minimize as much overwork as possible.

This place is great- been answering a lot of my other questions by scrolling through old posts.

 

[billconner]

2x10? are bolts 4+" from edge? Not really in middle third of a 2x6. Maybe cut bolts and inserts. You might be able to use tapcons or ramset or something simpler and faster than drill and epoxy.

Lots of us learn what we don't know right after we needed to know.

 

[hunttuxcat]

Yeah- they're right in the middle of the 6" core, (11 1/4 total width-if memory serves. Just went outside to check, and I might even be able to squeeze a 2x4 on the core on the outside of the bolts and pretend those ones don't exist. Lol

I'll speak with the inspector on Monday to get his thoughts- lots of ways to do it I think.

 

[billconner]

I'm thinking I would not like bolts or wide sill that far into space. Leaning more to cutting those off. Hard to know without a picture. (hint) Whatever you do, this is not a fatal to flaw or show stopper - just a small bump in the long road. If this is worst problem on this project, I'd say you did great.

 

[hunttuxcat]

left side is outside wall 2x4 for reference.

 

[billconner]

Will slab be 16" or so below top of this stem wall? I could be way off base. I'd think 2x4 would be flush to left and sheathing hang down over ICF just a little - 1/2" or so? Could make a case for a really wide sill - covering whole ICF - just tough to build flat and tip up. It would leave a "finished" ledge.

 

[hunttuxcat]

Slab will Only be ~6" below the top of the icf wall. Originally I was advised to then pour up to the top of the pt sill, but after speaking with some pros, they suggested lowering it below to make the curb. Loses some space, gets the wood higher off the ground and doesn't create a thin (easily crackable?) ledge on top of the icf

 

[billconner]

Interesting. I think you're heading in right direction. The wide plate covering ICF might still be nice and it solves the anchor bolt problem, but it can be added later with different anchors.

 

[Jtrudel90]

Hello! Been lurking for a bit, but figured I would create an account and ask some questions.

so... building a 30x40 shop. 2x4 walls on icf frost wall.

the concrete guys popped in some J bolts when they poured the icf, and unfortunately didn't realize I was doing 2x4 walls. So the bolts aren't centred for a 2x4 plate.
Is there any issue with going to a 2x6/8 bottom plate and keeping the 2x4 studs?

or should I just cut done the bolts, drill, and epoxy new anchor bolts to fit the 2x4s.
Thanks!

I know this is an old thread just wondering how you made out .? I’m in the planning stages and glad I ran across this thread

 

[hunttuxcat]

I ended up just cutting them down so they were out of the way then drilled and put bolts through my 2x4 wall plate, 2x12 treated sill, concrete. Still haven't had it inspected, but shouldn't be an issue

 

[kbs2244]

i have a 8 inch thick block stem wall
so the sill plant on top is 8 inches
the J bolts were set for a 2x4 wall

 

[hunttuxcat]

Sorta reverse situation that I was in. I don't think you'll have any issues using the bolts where they are. Mind you, I don't know what I'm talking about, but it seems like it would be just fine and fully secure