Silverado Lifting Points

[bob_the_builder]

After many hours of planning I finally had my two post lift installed this weekend. I have been very busy getting the garage read for the lift therefore I have not updated my garage build for some time but I am planing on doing that in the next week or two.

I hope this is in the correct spot but I wanted to get a second opinion on the best way to lift my 2003 Silverado Extended Cab Truck. I spoke with a mechanic and he recommended this way but I found the truck to have some bounce to it so I wanted to get a second opinion.

By the way, the lift is a Rotary SPOA10 installed in the wide configuration.

I followed the Rotary recommendation and parked the truck just past the spotting dish as noted in the manual.

This post the posts just behind the mirrors and in front of the door handle.

I put the front arm as far forward as I could before the frame curves up.

I put the rear arm as far back as I could before the frame curves up.

With the truck parked in this position I am about 6" too short from reaching the rear leaf spring hanger. This leaves with with the arms under the cab only and the 6.6" box is hanging past the rear pick-up point.

I just wanted to double check with everyone if this is correct. I could always put a stand under the rear axle to take the bounce out of the truck.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

 

[JJThrasher]

Can you put the rear arm all the way up locked between the slope of the from and the leaf spring hanger? Then the front arm flat as far forward as it'll reach? Sadly trucks usually have some wobble on twin posts. A jack under the hitch should solve that though.

 

[Will McRay]

That is the correct place.

 

[cbogg]

That's probably as good as it's gonna get. If you can't get it to fall off yarnin on the front bumper with the tires a foot off the ground it probably ain't coming off all the way up. Unless you rip out an axle or something without support that is.

 

[Tim C]

That's where I lift them every day at work. If it's a quick oil change or something I just lift it and go. If I'm pulling a transmission or something like that i put a stand under the trailer hitch to stop the bounce.

If I use a stand I like to tie a rag around the lowering valve handle or kill the power if the rack has a disconnect switch or plug, after lowering it on the locks. This way I don't get in a hurry and forget to remove the stand before lowering the vehicle. I've not had a problem in 16 years but I've seen it done twice!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[APEowner]

That's how it's done. Some bounce is normal and after you get some experience you'll get a feel for what to expect. A stand or two is a good idea if you're going to be pulling on it extra hard or removing anything with substantial weight.

 

[countryroad82]

That's the correct place, although I lift by the spring hangers on my fleet of Silverado's at work, I just feel more comfortable that way as it spreads the load. Also invest in safety stands, I won't work under one without them.

 

[Radix2]

Hey...wait a minute ...that truck is 13 years old?

The underside looks better than most of the new on the lot....!

 

[lakeroadster]

Congrat's on the new lift!

I also have a Rotary SPOA10. The bounce is normal. The heavier the vehicle, the longer the overhang, the more bounce.

You'll get used to it. The more you use the lift, the more you'll get comfortable with it.

I have some stands but only use them if I am working on the rear suspension, rear bumper, etc.

As a side note: I usually lift via the longer ears on the arms when lifting a truck or a higher ground clearance SUV. It gives you more lift height, and keeps the arms down further away from the body, which is nice if you need to open a door, or you are detailing the rockers, etc.

 

[kbs2244]

I would go with the placement the owners book says is best.
The lift book is generalized, averaged out, sugestions.
The owners book is specific to your truck.

 

[4 FN 27]

You are lifting it correctly. I to get a lot of bounce when I lift my Dually.

 

[ABADWILLYS]

To the OP, Since you dont have running boards you can keep the pads flat, otherwise lifting your truck like that is fine, single cab trucks we have to grab the Rear spring or hanger

Those Rotarys bounce a lot, they are made kinda cheap IMO, Not saying they are bad just less substantially built than the older stuff... like everything.
and for the record, I turn wrenches for a living, under one of those!

 

[bob_the_builder]

Thanks to everyone for the input and taking the time post. I just feel better knowing that the way I am lifting the truck is normal.

Yes, it is a 13 year old truck but I get it oil sprayed (Krown) each year. I also do not drive it on really bad winter days or at least try not to.

To the OP, Since you dont have running boards you can keep the pads flat, otherwise lifting your truck like that is fine, single cab trucks we have to grab the Rear spring or hanger

Those Rotarys bounce a lot, they are made kinda cheap IMO, Not saying they are bad just less substantially built than the older stuff... like everything.
and for the record, I turn wrenches for a living, under one of those!

I am going to be bring over one of my work trucks (reg cab long box) and I will have to see how lifting off the rear leaf Springs work. I will post some more pictures tomorrow.

Bob

 

[bob_the_builder]

So I decided to try and lift my Regular Cab long box work truck and I was hoping to get some feedback on the best way to place the rear lift pad on the rear leaf springs.

Similar to my extended cab I place the front lift pad on the frame just before the frame curves up.

Looking at the rear, I thought I could place the lift pad such that it contacted the spring just have the bolt/hanger.

The other way I thought about lifting the truck is to rotate the lift pad 90 degrees such that the lift pad is sitting right under the bolt/hanger (Sorry the picture is a little dark). I felt this method was better but it means that if the truck is pushed side to side when working it could slide off the lift. No idea how hard you would have to actual push so this might not be a concern.

By the way I am sorry for such large pictures. I will have to find out how to resize them using flicker.

Bob

 

[Schurkey]

Resize your photos, please.

 

[dave89iroc]

I've lifted both ways, whichever makes you more comfortable

 

[GirchyGirchy]

By the way I am sorry for such large pictures. I will have to find out how to resize them using flicker.

Bob

Nothing to figure out, Flickr resizes them automatically. You're not linking correctly...choose the BBCode, not the direct link. When you're viewing a picture and click the "Share" button (looks like a little arrow), click the "BBCode" option, then choose a size, and copy/paste the link.

 

[scooz14]

i dont like lifting the actual leaf spring. i put the rear arm in the crotch between the frame and the front leaf spring mount. i also have a rotary with flip up feet. i try to flip the feet in opposite directions just so that if something drastic enough were to happen to cause the car to move, the feet dont want to all collapse the same way

 

[Tim C]

I'd rather put the lift pad on the bolt/spring eye, or as said above just in front of the spring hanger vs putting it on the spring itself after the eye.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk