Simonds saw ID and cleaning help.

[ekegelmann]

Picked this at a garage sale. Love it. It's a blue ribbon Simonds but I cannot tell the model. It's very clean without cleaning it. Now, should I clean it? Is it a 72 by just looking at it? If I was to clean the metal please give me ideas that won't take away the etch other leave scratches. Thanks!

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[woody 73]

very nice saw everyone will help you with cleaning ideas as for me I just take a rag with oil and give it a gentle touch up.

Some more reading for you:

http://sawnutz.galootcentral.com/simonds/

 

[Pinaud]

Looks like a 72: http://sawnutz.galootcentral.com/simonds/handsaws.htm

As far as cleaning: http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=main&right=/library/library.html

 

[woody 73]

Yikes $30.00 dollars I bet that was a small fortune back in the day, that is why all the old timers used to tell me stories that they would sharpen the blades till nothing was left because they cost so much money.

 

[ekegelmann]

Anyone know what the little number on the bottom of the saw means at all? Near the handle?

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[bill300d]

teeth per inch

 

[ekegelmann]

11

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[Carla]

Yikes $30.00 dollars I bet that was a small fortune back in the day, that is why all the old timers used to tell me stories that they would sharpen the blades till nothing was left because they cost so much money.

Actually, that $30 was 'per dozen', so an individual saw would have cost $2.50 (but that was 'wholesale', so a new saw might have cost the ordinary carpenter, maybe, $3-ish or so.....still that would have been a significant part of a day's pay, in 1919)

cheers

Carla

 

[Stuart in MN]

Nice saw, Simonds handsaws aren't very common.

 

[ekegelmann]

Has anyone ever used the mineral oil 0000 steel wool method?

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[RodneyW]

That one is in really nice shape. Most of my saws started out in far worse shape. It's easiest if you can remove the handle and lay the blade on a flat surface. It's not worth tearing up the handle if the nuts are stuck though. I'd wet sand with at least 600 grit sandpaper to start, maybe even finer, with a hard sanding block. The hard block is important to preserve the etch.
There are a few guys on the Sawmill Creek and Woodnet forums who will restore and sharpen saws for a fee. If you've never used a properly sharpened hand saw, you'll be amazed at how well they actually cut.
Rodney

 

[Corndoggeh]

I use this block on hand saw and cast iron tables that does extremely little marring on the metal but pulls the rust off extremely quick. I don't know what the name of it is since I found it in the garage a long time ago when I was a young teen but it looks to be some kind of zinc/aluminum powder that is held together with resin. When you rub the metal with it it begins to disintegrate a bit and creates an abrasive powder that works like fine sandpaper.

I used it to restore an EC Atkins rip saw from 1894 and it allowed me to remove the rust over the etching and still maintain said etching.

 

[ctb]

The rusty spots will come off with steel wool with no problem. The black spots however are an indication that the steel is pitted underneath. Even going at it with 240 wet and dry will leave little black indentations in the steel that are below the surface. So here lies the dilemma. The harder you rub, even with steel wool, the more steel you remove and the shinier the saw plate. Unfortunately, you also stand a good chance of damaging the etching.
If the etching wasn't in such good shape, I'd start with 240 and work my way up to 1000 or 1200 grit, which leaves the saw plate in a nice smooth shiny condition.
There are people out there who can restore saws so the etching remains almost pristine, unfortunately I'm not one of them. I still have a 1920's Spear and Jackson with a good etch but lots of those black spots that I've put off restoring simply because I'm afraid of screwing it up. I tried steel wool on the back side and it wasn't enough. 400 wet and dry was better but would kill the etch so I stopped until I find a better method. Sometimes those etches are a curse.

 

[ekegelmann]

That one is in really nice shape. Most of my saws started out in far worse shape. It's easiest if you can remove the handle and lay the blade on a flat surface. It's not worth tearing up the handle if the nuts are stuck though. I'd wet sand with at least 600 grit sandpaper to start, maybe even finer, with a hard sanding block. The hard block is important to preserve the etch.
There are a few guys on the Sawmill Creek and Woodnet forums who will restore and sharpen saws for a fee. If you've never used a properly sharpened hand saw, you'll be amazed at how well they actually cut.
Rodney

Do you happen to know any of these guys or their fees??

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[jimreed2160]

Nice saw. I clean my saw finds with 400 aluminum oxide sandpaper on a wooden block, using Simple Green as a lubricant. Be careful around the etch. Just remove the handle and use some construction lumber as a backer as you work. Wash with Dawn and hot water when you are finished and give it a coat of 3 in 1 oil or Johnsons Paste Wax. Your saw is in great shape and did not see much work. It might still be sharp. With 11 points per inch, it was a crosscut saw and was good for hardwoods as well as softwoods. A trim carpenter would use such a saw for cutting mouldings for doors and windows and for cutting baseboards. Good luck with your new tool.

 

[ekegelmann]

Nice saw. I clean my saw finds with 400 aluminum oxide sandpaper on a wooden block, using Simple Green as a lubricant. Be careful around the etch. Just remove the handle and use some construction lumber as a backer as you work. Wash with Dawn and hot water when you are finished and give it a coat of 3 in 1 oil or Johnsons Paste Wax. Your saw is in great shape and did not see much work. It might still be sharp. With 11 points per inch, it was a crosscut saw and was good for hardwoods as well as softwoods. A trim carpenter would use such a saw for cutting mouldings for doors and windows and for cutting baseboards. Good luck with your new tool.

I actually just want to see the model number. It's in great shape.

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[Pinaud]

Has anyone ever used the mineral oil 0000 steel wool method?

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Yes, I've used the method from the vintage saws website with very good results.

 

[RodneyW]

Do you happen to know any of these guys or their fees??

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MarvW at Woodnet is one guy who does it. I haven't used him and I don't know what he charges but he's highly recommended by members there. Looks like he might have stopped due to health issues in his family. Still, it wouldn't hurt to ask. At the very least he would know who else would do a good job for you.
Rodney

 

[ekegelmann]

How about mineral spirits or is it oil one needs?

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[woody 73]

ekegelmann if you can locate a woodcraft store in your area they can do several things for you:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Stores/Default.aspx

1) They will have some kind of list of guys/gals that will sharpen your saw.

2) Any supplies that you will need.

3) knowledgeable staff that can guide you through the clean-up phase and answer any questions that you might have.

Hope that helps you out.