Simple Compressor Set-up

[gs8212]

I've researched the various threads on compressors and have a couple simple (for you guys) questions that I couldn't find answers for. First, this is what I have and what I'll do with it:

IR GarageMate 2 HP; 20 gallons; 5.2 CFM at 90 psi; tank 135 psi.
Ingersoll Rand 2132G 1/2-Inch Edge Series Air Impactool.
50 foot reel of Goodyear rubber 3/8 in air hose; no iron pipe in the set-up.
Compressor is mobile and will likely be moved to just outside the garage door during usage, stored inside.

Planned Usage: Weekend warrior stuff for self and family and friends. Lug Nuts; sway bars; struts; exhaust systems; etc. I might use it 1 weekend a month. Got tired of not being able to do certain things or for them to take 5 times as long as they should, for lack of tools. It's a safe bet I'll never paint with it. Will also use inflation tool, ratchet attachment, maybe blower.

Garage is typical tract-home attached 20 x 20 with 10' ceiling . Just enough room for 2 vehicles and some limited work bench space. Have to move one car out to really work on the other.

Questions:

1. Even with the limited uses indicated above, should a condensation filter still be used? Is it overkill, a nice thing to have, or a 'why wouldn't you put one on you idiot!'?

2. If yes install one, is a basic big box store/Sears filter adequate, and should it include a pressure gauge at the filter?

3. Consensus seems to be a filter should be about 20' after the compressor to allow for cooling, correct? With my less than professional-grade equipment, would a 70' run of hose (50' on reel and 20' for cooling) somehow diminish the capability of the tools? Should I have gone with a 25' reel if I end up adding a 20' cool-down hose? I've read posts regarding a hose being too long, but don't have a clear understanding of the implications.

4. I'd like to attach my reel to the ceiling to maximize floor space and reach with my tool. However, something tells me running the first 20' of cooling hose up the wall 10' would just dump all the condensation back toward the tank. Or do I not understand the physics of it all and running the cooling hose up the wall would be fine, with the condensation filter on the ceiling right next to the reel?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[gs8212]

Replying to myself to bump the thread back up to more recent activity. Thanks in advance for any input u might have.

 

[txbonds]

I bought and cut a 50' hose from sears and ran about 20 feet of the flexible air hose from my compressor location up and around the wall and put a cheap small husky regulator and filter right before my hose reel. I have really only found condensate in bottom of air tank but I don't use mine very often so the water separator at the filter probably doesn't get enough air flow to be useful. I did install an easier drain on the tank to make sure I drained it often.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Planned Usage: Weekend warrior stuff for self and family and friends. ...
Questions:

1. Even with the limited uses indicated above, should a condensation filter still be used? Is it overkill, ...

Overkill, IMHO. 30+ year old compressor and air tools. Same usage. No condensation filter. Make sure to oil your air tools before using.

Buy an extra 50' air hose. Set it up with quick couplers so you can add it in when needed. I buy my couplers a HF.

 

[pipsters]

Here are some others to consider. The IR Garagemate scored pretty low.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138871

 

[pipsters]

Also wanted to say my usage is almost exactly what you are going to do. I have the 25 gal Craftsman pro compressor. It works great. I love having access to air, and with my Earthquake 1/2" impact gun I haven't met a nut or bolt yet that hasn't come off.

I think for occasional use air powered equipment is nice. No batteries to worry about. If you were using it every single day I can see how an electric system would make more sense. But once a month (like I use it, any more and my cars are going to get replaced!) use will mean expensive batteries will have to be replaced before they get used up, and are kinda a waste.

I would look into high flow fittings. Using 3/8" air hose with high flow fittings and you'll be fine. Pick up a Harbor Freight 1/2" Earthquake impact, it was the most powerful in my test of the IR 2135timax, Aircat 1100, and it. Great gun, little heavy but durable.

 

[sberry]

You always want a filter. A 50 ft hose is nice, can get around a car or outside to do a tire.

 

[gs8212]

Thanks to all. Great info. Nice pics also.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I'm in the same boat as you; I have an Ingersoll Rand upright compressor with a 30gal tank. It cost a more than a Crapsman or Kobalt, but it's made in USA and parts are readily available, even though the model is no longer available (pump is still in use). I have a 15ft and 25ft hose which I like better than having one long one. If I need more hose, I just connect them. As far as a filter, I have a cheap one that I bought at Home Depot that I put on the output of the compressor. I live in AZ, which is super dry, but the filter still manages to remove a small amount of water. Either way, I oil my tools after each use as they tend to sit a while in between uses.

 

[gs8212]

Here are some others to consider. The IR Garagemate scored pretty low.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138871

That other thread you link to is incredibly interesting (easy home test of actual CFM). But now that my compressor's, and by extension, my manhood has been challenged, I'll do the math and report back on the actual home-calculated CFM.

I bought my IR compressor about a month ago for $365; it was a floor model with full warranty and found it on the Sears Outlet site, so I was happy with price and I think IR is good quality.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Find yourself an old (25+) Sear/Craftsman compressor, 1 hp (120v) or 2-3 hp (240V) in good condition. Should cost you between $100-$200 and should last another 25 years.

 

[gs8212]

My travels through the garage forum raised a couple more questions:

1. I don't see how the unions help you avoid unscrewing a bunch of the black pipe system to make changes. It seems no matter where you unscrew (at a union or other joint) it will impact the nearest joint. I'm not getting it.

2. I've read two points of view (that's a shocker!) on sloping the main supply line. One says toward the end of the line, and the other says slope it back toward the compressor. Does it really matter either way so long as you use a Tee and drain line ?

3. I've read a couple of places about uncoupling from a "hot" line and I don't understand what that means or how to avoid it. Is a hot line just one with compressed air in it? Does the whip serve some purpose in this? Does a ball joint near the end of the run near the tool help with this?

4. Does the black pipe allow enough play after installing a 90 degree fitting on the initial vertical run from the compressor, to allow for the first horizontal run to be sloped one direction or the other?

Thanks again for all the great advice............Greg

 

[gs8212]

Bumping myself. See my questions right above this post. Thanks for any input you might have....Greg

 

[Seagoon]

My travels through the garage forum raised a couple more questions:

1. I don't see how the unions help you avoid unscrewing a bunch of the black pipe system to make changes. It seems no matter where you unscrew (at a union or other joint) it will impact the nearest joint. I'm not getting it.

2. I've read two points of view (that's a shocker!) on sloping the main supply line. One says toward the end of the line, and the other says slope it back toward the compressor. Does it really matter either way so long as you use a Tee and drain line ?

3. I've read a couple of places about uncoupling from a "hot" line and I don't understand what that means or how to avoid it. Is a hot line just one with compressed air in it? Does the whip serve some purpose in this? Does a ball joint near the end of the run near the tool help with this?

4. Does the black pipe allow enough play after installing a 90 degree fitting on the initial vertical run from the compressor, to allow for the first horizontal run to be sloped one direction or the other?

Thanks again for all the great advice............Greg

I.m no expert but here is what little I know:
1)Neither am I

2)I have read those same 2 points and my conclusion was that I am more convinced by the sloping back to the compressor idea, but in the end what mattered most was having a slope and taking the drain from the lowest point.

3)I haven't come across this one and assume that it's a warning that the hose is going to need a firm hold kept on it when disconnecting "hot". The only way round it is to turn off the nearest tap and exhaust the tool before disconnection but it really seems unnecessary.

4)No. You need at least 2*90 degree bends and a short connector to allow a slope when changing direction, unless you take the cheap option and use a short length of flexi pipe .

HTH

Vaughan

 

[kylesmth]

unions allow you to take apart your line of pipe without having to unscrew everything from the start/end of the run of pipe if you have a huge run of pipe it could take hours to take apart vs. just unscrewing your union.

don't worry about sloping the line so long as you have some kind of tee\ball valve to drain condensation below your last connection on all vertical drops.

I cant really help you with your third question sorry

There is no real play in black iron fittings, the play is all in the pipe. Smaller sized pipe and longer runs will give you a lot more flex. If space is tight and you are really hell bent on sloping that thing just use two 90's and make a swing joint.

 

[gs8212]

Excellent input - thanks....... Regarding slope, I think I'll use a 45 turn at the top of my first vertical pipe out of the compressor - this will give me a steep slope for the first (only) horizontal run. Then at the end of that first sloped horizontal run I'll add another 45 with a 90 attached to that to turn it vertically back down towards the floor with a drain at the bottom and a tee above that for filter / regulator.

I'm basically creating an inverted "U" to move across the top of my garage door so that I can cool my air, keep my compressor on one side of the garage door near plug, and keep my reel mounted high up on the wall between the 2 garage doors.

I'll also have a normal "U" below my reel to feed the air through the filter and then have a short (4 ft) flexible connector hose to connect the piping to the reel above.

Feels like overkill to me but I like to do things once, not be penny wise and pound foolish, and not have to worry about condensation down the road.

I still don't understand exactly how the union works (after Google and this forum) but will likely stop by the plumbing parts store and inquire.

Thanks again to all..... Greg

 

[gs8212]

Thanks to all for the advice. I thought I'd post pics of the final results. Got busy with other things and just finished it Friday.

Stats:
3/4-in black iron (35' to filter).
Couple of 1/2-in takeoffs.
Condesate filter near hose reel.
Couple 12" drain lines at either end of run.
Milton V-style quick connects.

First pic of leader off compressor to a tee and drain below the tee:

 

[gs8212]

Pic of pipe up back wall of small 2 car attached garage and then heading across ceiling to front of garage.

 

[gs8212]

Heading across ceiling sloped about 1/4-in per foot back towards compressor

 

[gs8212]

Pic of pipe heading down front of garage wall to a tee to the condensate filter and then back up the wall to the reel attached near the ceiling.

Put a short takeoff at rhe bottom and attached cheap coil hose for tires, balls and occasional other uses I haven't thought of yet.
[IMG]

 

[gs8212]

Reel at the top. Thanks again guys. Used it this weekend on its maiden voyage to replace the exhaust system on my corrolla and it was a dream to have.

 

[thatguysb]

any updates on the compressor ??

 

[sberry]

I must have missed this, slope away.
a few drops of water wont run back down a long pipe, you want the slope with the air flow to drive it down to a drip leg.
It will work though its going to get blown along anyway. That looks pretty good, it could have used a couple less fittings but not bad. I could have skipped the coily thing.