Simplest way to bench test auto components with direct power?

[Jacobson]

Say you have a dead window motor.
It's not working, so you remove it.

You want to try it with "direct power" to see if it actually works.
Without spending $100 on powerprobe, what's an easy hack?

One is to hook wires up to a car battery, right?
Do you buy clips, like jumper cables to attach?
If the motor has 2 prongs, one goes to (+) and the other to (-) ?

 

[gayler]

Yep, thats what I would do. If it runs it will go the other way if you reverse the leads. What the heck is your avatar? Or do I want to know?

 

[LEVE]

I use a car battery, it's simple and I can easily re-charge it. I've made up a set of 6' leads that have a switch and a fuse in the positive lead. If you choose your fuse holder correctly you can easily insert a fuse of the proper amperage for the device. The leads have alligator clips on each lead end. I can clamp them to the device, as well as the battery. This way I can easily hook up the device I want to test while not having to worry about holding the device while avoiding shorting the leads. These leads are very handy.

 

[G_P]

Find a free/cheap desktop PC at a yard sale or thrift shop and pull out the power supply.

On the big connector, jump the green wire to a black wire and the supply will power up. Then the yellow wires are 12v+ and the red wires are 5v+. The black wires are grounds.

 

[firebox40dash5]

If you've got a meter, grab some backprobe pins, lead extensions, and banana pin/gator clip lead ends. Test it on the car. I usually use a jump box, or a spare powersport battery, but a car battery wotks too.

All of the above also go great with the Powerprobe when you break down and buy it eventually.

 

[K-Dog]

Jump box...

 

[Frosthy]

You use a powerprobe and check it on the car, as well as the whole circuit in all of no time at all. The wire piercing probes make quick work of things like this.

Spend the money on a powerprobe and you'll never regret it.

 

[Jacobson]

I use a car battery, it's simple and I can easily re-charge it. I've made up a set of 6' leads that have a switch and a fuse in the positive lead. If you choose your fuse holder correctly you can easily insert a fuse of the proper amperage for the device. The leads have alligator clips on each lead end. I can clamp them to the device, as well as the battery. This way I can easily hook up the device I want to test while not having to worry about holding the device while avoiding shorting the leads. These leads are very handy.

I got these for $2.50 They worked great. I clipped red to the positive terminal bolt, and then touched the black to the negative post for the final connection to test the device. The clips worked perfectly in the power connector of the device.

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-low-voltage-test-leads-66712.html

Find a free/cheap desktop PC at a yard sale or thrift shop and pull out the power supply.

On the big connector, jump the green wire to a black wire and the supply will power up. Then the yellow wires are 12v+ and the red wires are 5v+. The black wires are grounds.

The power cord of a PC. One side has a wall plug. The other has the female part that plugs into the back of the PC. Do you cut that off? This is to get 12V from the wall outlet? Just pick any black wire to tie the green wire to?

If you've got a meter, grab some backprobe pins, lead extensions, and banana pin/gator clip lead ends. Test it on the car. I usually use a jump box, or a spare powersport battery, but a car battery wotks too.

I bought banana pin things off Ebay, and have no idea how to use them. I think they are micro attachments that can only clip to tiny things. Not a power lead prong of a motor.

Jump box...

What's that?

 

[G_P]

Leave the wall cord of the pc power supply alone. When you remove the power supply from the pc the big plug that goes to the motherboard is the one you need. Cut the green wire off of the plug and cut off the black wire next to it. When those two wires are connected the power supply will turn on.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-power-up-an-ATX-Power-Supply-without-a-PC/

 

[Jacobson]

You use a powerprobe and check it on the car, as well as the whole circuit in all of no time at all. The wire piercing probes make quick work of things like this. .

How does powerprobe hold power? Rechargable battery? Wall outlet?

I am curious about the piercing probes. This is to measure voltage or current (?) getting to a device. The old way is to disconnect the power plug, and hook the DVM to the power plug and test the reading when the device's switch is turned on.
With piercing probes, you can leave the power supply plugged into the device. You just splice into the power cable, and measure the reading that way? So, basically piercing probes are just a time saver?

They are not cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=Piercing+Probe&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

 

[Jacobson]

Leave the wall cord of the pc power supply alone. When you remove the power supply from the pc the big plug that goes to the motherboard is the one you need. Cut the green wire off of the plug and cut off the black wire next to it. When those two wires are connected the power supply will turn on.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-power-up-an-ATX-Power-Supply-without-a-PC/

Oh, you're using the power supply out of the case.
You leave the cable plugged into the power supply.
Then you mess with the internal wires coming from the power supply box.

 

[diggerrick]

I use this to power all kinds of stuff:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10250-amp-12v-manual-charger-with-engine-start-60653.html

 

[wagzilla]

You use a powerprobe and check it on the car, as well as the whole circuit in all of no time at all. The wire piercing probes make quick work of things like this.

Spend the money on a powerprobe and you'll never regret it.

this is the best money spent

James

 

[Ruger_556]

You use a powerprobe and check it on the car, as well as the whole circuit in all of no time at all. The wire piercing probes make quick work of things like this.

Spend the money on a powerprobe and you'll never regret it.

For the love of all things car related please don't do this... I can't count the number of times I've had to fix that.

 

[signcrafter]

If you don't want to spend the money on a PPIII then you should make your own "jumper" wires. Get a lighter plug from the parts store or radio shack for a couple bucks. Then run some wire from the lighter plug and put an inline fuse holder on the positive side. Use one that uses blade fuses so you can easily change to different amperage. Then run the wires to a project box, 3 bucks at radio shack. Put a momentary switch in the project box. Then run the wires out of the box to some alligator clips. Basically will have the "power up" feature of the PPIII for under 20 bucks. You can get as fancy as you want with different ends and different clips to fit different applications.

Lighter plug: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016LG0CY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Alligator clips to lighter plug adapter so you can hook directly to battery if wanted: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-battery-to-lighter-socket-extension-cord-66407.html

Inline fuse: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR88A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Project box: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062279

Momentary switch: http://www.radioshack.com/search/in...momentary switch&origkw=momentary+switch&sr=1

 

[pendragon1998]

http://m.instructables.com/id/Converting-a-computer-ATX-power-supply-to-a-really/?ALLSTEPS

This worked well for me and doubles as an electrolysis power supply for derusting parts.

 

[jmm]

For the love of all things car related please don't do this... I can't count the number of times I've had to fix that.

Seriously. Poking holes in wires is a terrible idea.

 

[Danglerb]

PP3 makes it so easy. If you don't like piercing insulation, back track to the connector. Before the PP3 I bought a few cheap ice pick test lights and rewired one with a LONG 10 gauge wire and fuse block.

PP3 has a long cable to go all the way to the battery terminals.

 

[lilredex]

To use a computer power supply for other purposes there is no need to alter anything, you only have to ID the out put plug connections........like this.




You can turn it on by sending that green wire to any ground wire, and there are many to choose from.

 

[rande]

What's that?

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-portable-power-pack-with-jump-start-60703.html

Some have an air compressor
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-1-jump-starter-with-air-compressor-69401.html

I've got this one. I use it with the winch on my trailer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-jump-starter-and-power-supply-60657.html

 

[Jacobson]

If you don't want to spend the money on a PPIII then you should make your own "jumper" wires. Get a lighter plug from the parts store or radio shack for a couple bucks. Then run some wire from the lighter plug and put an inline fuse holder on the positive side. Use one that uses blade fuses so you can easily change to different amperage. Then run the wires to a project box, 3 bucks at radio shack. Put a momentary switch in the project box. Then run the wires out of the box to some alligator clips. Basically will have the "power up" feature of the PPIII for under 20 bucks. You can get as fancy as you want with different ends and different clips to fit different applications.

Lighter plug: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016LG0CY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Alligator clips to lighter plug adapter so you can hook directly to battery if wanted: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-battery-to-lighter-socket-extension-cord-66407.html

Inline fuse: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR88A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Project box: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062279

Momentary switch: http://www.radioshack.com/search/in...momentary switch&origkw=momentary+switch&sr=1

1) What is the project box for?

2) When you do prefer to hook directly to battery, and not use cig lighter?

3) What is the advantage of the momentary switch? I was just touching the last black lead on the car battery as my switch. This was causing sparks. Is that why a switch is preferred?

4) The fuse gets place inline the (+) wire, right?



For now, I just used this, and it seemed to work.
Is this enough? What will your above recipe do that this doesn't?
Maybe I should just add the fuse and switch to this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-low-voltage-test-leads-66712.html

 

[torqueman2002]

I bought a window motor from a auto recycle yard.

I asked the guy who pulled it if he tested it.

He showed me how he did it out in the yard - he jumpered the motor to a 14 V drill battery. Worked very slick.

As a retired GM Service Engineer, I assure you, piercing insulation will lead to wire failure. Even silicone sealing after piercing the insulation leads to failure. The silicone attacks the copper wire.

Moisture intrusion is a very high warranty item that a lot of effort, time, and money is dedicated to reduce to a minimum by harness manufactures.

 

[Zapp Branigan]

I have an old variable 15V 30A electroplating power supply that works great for that kind of stuff.

 

[Jacobson]

He showed me how he did it out in the yard - he jumpered the motor to a 14 V drill battery. Worked very slick.

How do you attach the wires to the drill battery? Tape?

 

[signcrafter]

1) What is the project box for?

2) When you do prefer to hook directly to battery, and not use cig lighter?

3) What is the advantage of the momentary switch? I was just touching the last black lead on the car battery as my switch. This was causing sparks. Is that why a switch is preferred?

4) The fuse gets place inline the (+) wire, right?



For now, I just used this, and it seemed to work.
Is this enough? What will your above recipe do that this doesn't?
Maybe I should just add the fuse and switch to this?

1. Project box is to mount the switch in, just makes a nice neat tool instead of the switch just hanging from the wire. Also the box makes it easier to hold in your hand. It's not "needed" but makes it easier and nicer.

2. Battery is just another option to get power from. Cig lighter and battery both work, just nice to have options. Say you're working in engine compartment and don't want to run wire all the way to the dash to get power from cig lighter.

3. Momentary switch means you can hook the alligator clips up and then just flip the switch. Don't have to touch a wire to battery to "switch" it.

4. Yes put the inline fuse in the positive wire as close to the power source(battery) as possible.

Those jumpers work fine and I have many sets. What I suggested is just a little nicer and only costs a few bucks.

 

[signcrafter]

How do you attach the wires to the drill battery? Tape?

Just use your alligator clips to attach to drill battery.

 

[torqueman2002]

How do you attach the wires to the drill battery? Tape?

Just use your alligator clips to attach to drill battery.

Yes and yes; he used clips on the motor and jammed/touched the other stripped ends to the battery. IIRC he had a DeWalt.