Simpson Power Washer - Melted Valves and General Maintenance

[CMayo]

I bought a SIMPSON MegaShot 3,300 pressure washer (MS60921) four years ago. This unit is used for 3-4 hours/year to clean green mold from my vinyl siding and is stored in an outdoor shed the rest of the time. I'm careful not to let the pressure washer run for more than a minute or two without having the spray on (just the time to reposition the ladder or pull the machine down to the next section of siding). Last year was the only year I used pump saver in the unit.

My shop tells me that the pump's valves are melted and that it needs a new pump for $150 (plus $50 for oil and labor). I've read that these pumps are only good for 40-50 hours so I wasn't especially surprised to learn that it needs a new one, even though I don't think there are even 30 hours on this pump.

So I have two questions:

1) I'd guess that the valves are plastic (or really **** metal) and that they'd melt due to overheating but as I've said, I'm careful not to let it run without water passing through the pump for more than a minute or two. Is that enough time to overheat the pump, or is there another reason why valves would melt after four years of VERY light use?

2) The first thing that comes out of my machine each season is 2-3 seconds of rusty water, even this year when I was careful to run pump saver through it before storing it. If the pump was full of pump saver, where did the rust come from? The spray head? I'd prefer not to have water in the machine while it sits outdoors for 11 months a year; is there a procedure for completely purging the machine of water?

Thanks for any thoughts you guys can pass along.

 

[theoldwizard1]

There are places online that will sell you a replacement pump for less. Easy job.

 

[Packard V8]

Do you blow it out with compressed air to clear all the water?

And no, the valves shouldn't have 'melted' with that few hours of light use.

jack vines

 

[65ranchero]

I have a CM 2k PW that is stored outside in sub zero temps only using Pump saver.

Hoses are disconnected after use and pump saver is add until it's running out of the pressure side.
It has sat for 5 years and after replacing the fueltank/ carb assembly adding fresh fuel it was ready to work on the siding

 

[demarpaint]

I store mine in my NY garage where we see freezing temperatures. After the season is over I fog the machine and change the oil. Then with the engine in the off position I pull the cord as I add antifreeze to the pump via a hose funnel combo I rig to it. When I see a good stream of anti-freeze I stop pulling the cord. I cap off the inlet to the pump and store it for the winter with fuel and stabilizer added to the gas. I've been doing so for well over 30 years now for a machine that sees light commercial use. I rebuilt the pump once, due to lending it to someone who had no business using the machine. Lesson learned.

OP- your pump should have lasted much longer. I'd either rebuild it myself or buy a new pump and install it. It's a very easy job.

 

[CMayo]

Do you blow it out with compressed air to clear all the water?

And no, the valves shouldn't have 'melted' with that few hours of light use.

jack vines

Thanks for your response, Jack. I've never used compressed air to blow out the water but that's exactly what I needed to know about. I found a video at

that makes the process very clear; I just need to hunt up the appropriate fittings. Thanks again!!

 

[CMayo]

I store mine in my NY garage where we see freezing temperatures. After the season is over I fog the machine and change the oil. Then with the engine in the off position I pull the cord as I add antifreeze to the pump via a hose funnel combo I rig to it. When I see a good stream of anti-freeze I stop pulling the cord. I cap off the inlet to the pump and store it for the winter with fuel and stabilizer added to the gas. I've been doing so for well over 30 years now for a machine that sees light commercial use. I rebuilt the pump once, due to lending it to someone who had no business using the machine. Lesson learned.

OP- your pump should have lasted much longer. I'd either rebuild it myself or buy a new pump and install it. It's a very easy job.

@demarpaint, what do you mean when you say you fog the machine?

 

[CMayo]

Thanks for the responses, everyone. I'd seen the pump online for ~$100 and it looked like it was a pretty simple four-bolt job, but I didn't know how it would connect to the engine shaft so I elected to let the shop do the replacement. If you guys say the job's easy, I'll tackle it myself next time.

@Packard V8 suggested blowing it out with compressed air to dry the pump for storage and I'm going to start doing that beginning this fall. I dunno if I still need pump saver/anti-freeze if the pump has been blown dry but it seems like cheap insurance so I'll probably keep on with that. I liked the @demarpaint suggestion to cap off the inlet so I'm going to add that to my winterization procedure, and I already use fuel stabilizer in all my machines so I should be good on that score.

I'll quiz the shop about the "melted" valves. I'm just really unclear on what could cause that to happen.

Thanks again!

 

[demarpaint]

@demarpaint, what do you mean when you say you fog the machine?

I run the engine, usually to wash my carport or something. Once it reaches operating temperature I spray fogging oil into the carburetor while its running. It throws a nice smoke screen and I shut it off. I change the oil, put the AF in the pump and store the machine with fresh clean oil. The anti-freeze I add to the pump prevents corrosion, so I don't blow air through the pump to get the water out. Different strokes for different folks I guess.

 

[CMayo]

I run the engine, usually to wash my carport or something. Once it reaches operating temperature I spray fogging oil into the carburetor while its running. It throws a nice smoke screen and I shut it off. I change the oil, put the AF in the pump and store the machine with fresh clean oil. The anti-freeze I add to the pump prevents corrosion, so I don't blow air through the pump to get the water out. Different strokes for different folks I guess.

Wow, I had never heard of fogging an engine but there's lots of good info on YouTube now that I know what to look for. I used pump saver (I guess that's an anti-freeze that Simpson recommends) last year and the thing still sprayed out 3-4 seconds of rusty water when I started it this spring so apparently, there was still some untreated water in the system somewhere. That's why I think I'll try blowing the whole thing out with compressed air when I put it up this fall.

 

[demarpaint]

Wow, I had never heard of fogging an engine but there's lots of good info on YouTube now that I know what to look for. I used pump saver (I guess that's an anti-freeze that Simpson recommends) last year and the thing still sprayed out 3-4 seconds of rusty water when I started it this spring so apparently, there was still some untreated water in the system somewhere. That's why I think I'll try blowing the whole thing out with compressed air when I put it up this fall.

You still have to put something into the pump to prevent rust. When I put the anti freeze through mine I make sure pure anti freeze is coming out. I don't see any rust the following season. It might also be I'm using anti freeze concentrate and my pump might be a better quality pump?

 

[Rinspeed]

I'll quiz the shop about the "melted" valves. I'm just really unclear on what could cause that to happen.

Thanks again!

I would ask to see them.