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Simpson strapping

bluedog225

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I’m putting in some diagonal strapping on the inside of some exterior walls before I close them in.

Setting aside any concerns about the ultimate finished surface, is there a way to pull this stuff tight? Every time I do this, it comes out a little wonky.

I’d like to stretch it tight, exactly where I want it, lining up the holes on the studs, and nail it off.

I am out of ideas. And any thoughts welcome.

Thanks
 
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PCustoms

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I’m putting in some diagonal strapping on the inside of some exterior walls before I close them in.

Setting aside any concerns about the ultimate finished surface, is there a way to pull this stuff tight? Every time I do this, it comes out a little wonky.

I’d like to stretch it tight, exactly where I want it, lining up the holes on the studs, and nail it off.

I am out of ideas. And any thoughts welcome.

Thanks

I hate the stuff for the exact same reason.

What's the exterior sheathing, do you really need the strap?

I've been known to hide a sheet of plywood behind the drywall in certain situations...
 
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bluedog225

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It’s three-quarter ply on the exterior. It was spec’s at 5/8, but when I was buying material, 3/4 was 22 bucks a sheet. I figured why not.

I’m somewhat confident this would be unnecessary overkill. Moderate tornado area. I’ve got the stuff left over. I’d like to use it. No harm.
 

Hank11

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Use a router to cut a groove for the strapping to lay in. Mark the studs for both sides of the groove and go for it. No real accuracy or precision required.
 

PCustoms

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Use a router to cut a groove for the strapping to lay in. Mark the studs for both sides of the groove and go for it. No real accuracy or precision required.
While not a bad idea, how does this pull the strap tight?
 
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Hank11

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While not a bad idea, how does this pull the strap tight?
A lever of some kind. Maybe a wrecking bar. Maybe just vise grips and a helper. While you would not want it loose, ultimate tension is not a requirement. The building is already sheathed in 3/4 plywood, so its plenty stout now. Or should be of enough nails are involved. I wonder if it is not easier to just pass on this step and give the strapping away.

I’m guessing OP has something like this:
 

Rusted Nut

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Get a large tapered punch. Secure one end of strapping, place punch through hole on other end at an angle, and pound into the wood. Pull on punch to pull strapping tight, then nail through another hole to secure. Finish nailing it off.
 
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bluedog225

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On a long wall, I can see securing one end and using a wire to grab the other end. Then loop it around a long screw or lag with a washer. That could give 2-3“ if take up without too much trouble.

I’ll report back.

Thanks all
 

KenC

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oklahoma
Screw one end tight, angle the screw at the other end (green) so it pulls the strap tight as it draws in.

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Exactly what I've was taught to do years ago. Except we used common nails, 8d or 16d. We used rolls of 1" wide banding with holes punched every inch that the local lumber yard carried. It was used for everything, building/setting concrete forms, Xing studs behind the ply sheathing in every exterior wall corner etc.

Much thinner than Simpson strapping and not galvanized, but it worked.
 

Fav Onefour

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I've used the angle fastener trick quite often. Pound the strapping flat before you start. Angled fasteners won't perform miracles with wonky out of shape strapping.

Your sheathing will already add considerable structure.Y Are you hoping to install the strapping outside the sheathing? The fasteners really need to have a firm connection with framing. You would get a little more gain to lay the strapping right on the studs. That is also a tricky game. If you pull the strapping too hard, you'll fight shifting the wall.

Another item to keep in mind is how wood expands and contracts. Banjo tight steel might not be the best goal.

In the end, it's a lot of hassle to use up scrap strapping. If you really want more bracing, go with angled let in bracing. 3/4 sheathing fastend on top of that bracing would be a nice combo.
 
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