Simpson strong tie install question

[Mike_72]

I am going to be installing Simpson strong tie h2.5a hurricane clips and they call for 8dx2.5” nails, this will work fine into the top plate but will stick out by an inch on the truss side. Is it okay to use 1.5” on the truss side? I saw some picture where people had used the 2.5” and then bent the protruding portion over.

 

[Jlbc212]

It's okay with me . I doubt the building inspector will examine the nails to see how long they are. Simpson makes lots of different products. Their fastener specifications sometimes seem contradictory and confusing.

Recently when I installed the H2.5A hurricane clips I used Strong-Tie SD Connector Screws #10 x 1-1/2" and drove them into the truss with an 1/4" drive impact as I specified the roof trusses for 16" o.c. spacing which reduces the space to swing a hammer.

 

[KANSASBOY]

They do it because you need the 2.5 for the top plate does not hurt anything being to long on the rafters & come down to farmers don't have to use two sizes of nails

 

[Lynden]

I'd use 1.5" long joist hanger nails on the truss side and 8d common nails on the top plate side. You can always call Simpson. They are very helpful.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Use Simpson SD #9x1½" screws. Same diameter as 8d nails.

 

[Ralf11]

they spec. that length to give a certain amount of bending when a hurricane hits

you lose that safety margin w/shorter ones

 

[Mike_72]

they spec. that length to give a certain amount of bending when a hurricane hits

you lose that safety margin w/shorter ones

So you are supposed to use the 2 1/2” nails even on 2x lumber?

 

[matt_i]

Simpson has the correct shorty 1-1/2" nails with a number "molded" into its head so there is no doubt that the correct dia is being used into the "face" of a board..iow into the 1-1/2" thickness. Some are #8 diameter and some are #10 diameter IIRC.

One can buy them at the Home Depot (at least my closest) where Simpson metal straps and ties are sold.

The Simpson branded hex screws work very nicely, I would prefer to use a hex/impact driver over a regular hammer in tight spaces where a mis-hit bends up the bracket. A palm-nailer would work too but that involves dragging around an air hose, the cordless tool is much nicer in my opinion.

 

[aandpdan]

Just use their SD9112 screws - 1 1/2" long, problem solved.

 

[Dustball]

So you are supposed to use the 2 1/2” nails even on 2x lumber?

No. If you look at the catalog, it'll show uplift values for 1-1/2" nails but it'll be less than 2-1/2".

 

[Mike_72]

Thanks for all the input guys, went with #8 2 1/2” nails on the top plate since it needs to be flush for drywall and SD9112 screws where it meets the bottom chord of the truss.

 

[manwithtools]

Simpson has the correct shorty 1-1/2" nails with a number "molded" into its head so there is no doubt that the correct dia is being used into the "face" of a board..iow into the 1-1/2" thickness. Some are #8 diameter and some are #10 diameter IIRC.

One can buy them at the Home Depot (at least my closest) where Simpson metal straps and ties are sold.

The Simpson branded hex screws work very nicely, I would prefer to use a hex/impact driver over a regular hammer in tight spaces where a mis-hit bends up the bracket. A palm-nailer would work too but that involves dragging around an air hose, the cordless tool is much nicer in my opinion.

There is also a cordless palm nailer available in M12 from Milwaukee. I've only used mine a short amount of time but it works well so far.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Simpson has the correct shorty 1-1/2" nails with a number "molded" into its head so there is no doubt that the correct dia is being used ...

I had been told that you were not supposed to use "common" nails, only Simpson "structural" nails, but I can not find that recommendation in the Simpson catalog.

The Simpson brand 10D are hot dipped galvanized AND only 1-1/2" long. Hot sipped galvanized nails "grip" much better and the 1-1/2" works well with 2by lumber.

 

[Ralf11]

So you are supposed to use the 2 1/2” nails even on 2x lumber?

to meet spec. you need to have lumber that is thick enough too

the real issue is "do you car about hurricane" safety?

if so, it might be time to hire a structural engineer ($$$) or to find out what they would do in your situation (lotsa time on your part, but a builders assoc. in a hurricane area might know, or code compliance may have been updated to the spec.)

 

[Ralf11]

Simpson "structural" nails are fatties, larger dia. than regular ones

I dunno if they are any different in the material and/or shear strength, bending moments etc. beyond that

again, it all hinges on whether you want to (or need to) meet spec. for hurricanes, tornados, earthquakes, etc.

 

[nadogail]

Longer nails can be clinched over making them much harder to pullout.

 

[Ralf11]

pullout is one issue, but to meet spec. for hurricanes the nails must be long enuff to bend at a certain angle