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Single flare tool for -AN lines

90zcar

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Does anyone know if snap on makes a 37 degree flaring tool?
I own the blue point double flaring set but I'm almost positive it's 45 degrees

I need a 37 degree flaring tool to run hard fuel lines on my car and putting an fittings on the end.

The ones from summit and jegs seem to have horrible reviews


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dmw16

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^ I've seen this one used. Nothing but good reviews. Had I seen it prior to buying the Ridgid one I'd have gone that way.
 
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90zcar

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Now I gotta ask myself....for the price i would be spending for that tool I could just run braided flex lines from my cell to motor.
I do like that second one listed. I'll have to see if I can find videos of it.
I seen a YouTube video where the guy did hard lines with an fittings and he didn't flare the end. Didn't know what all that was about. Years ago I did something similar with a hard return line.


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Brick_Smart

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I was going to suggest the Ridgid linked above. As you mentioned the cheap ones are terrible. The line clamps slip preventing a full flare and the conical die that does the flaring is far too soft for mild steel not to mention stainless.

A cheap set will get you through a single car's worth of flares with patience before being completely worn out. I've done several projects with the Ridgid so far.
 
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90zcar

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I don't know if I mentioned but I'm going to be using 3/8 aluminum lines.


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LXCam

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I have the rigid one and the complete mastercool kit. When possible (physical size) I use the rigid. I just did a **** load of 3/8 with it on a recent build and it's a nice quality unit. I've also never been disappointed with anything I ever bought a aircraft spruce, but haven't used that particular tool.
 

Provincial

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I have used the unit that Aircraft Spruce sells extensively over the last 35 years, most of it on aluminum tubing. It is the best flaring tool that I have ever used. I have never had a leaky joint or cracked tube using this tool.
 

Graham08

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I have both of the tools linked in this thread. The tool from Aircraft Spruce isn't meant for stainless, if that matters to you. The Ridgid tool is rated for 0.035" wall stainless. I have a larger Imperial Rol-Air tool and it's my favorite. The Rol-Air tools are rated for heavier thicknesses of stainless than other tools...I've flared 3/4" x 0.065" stainless without a problem. I keep looking for the smaller version but haven't found a decent used one yet.
 
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90zcar

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So I talked to a guy from JEGS today and asked him about the cheap flaring tool to flare 37* lines and he told me flaring them isn't necessary if I go with something like this that comes with a ferrel that smashes in at the end.
This picture doesn't show the ferrel but..
1bc71958e345178d7c3ed5a2021729ec.jpg


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Graham08

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Be careful with those. The max pressure rating is 250 psi, which might be fine depending on your application, but is low compared to flaring the tube and using tube nuts and sleeves.
 
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LXCam

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Ferral type in stainless or steel are great, aluminum, not so much for a car application in my opinion.
 
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90zcar

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I'm starting to think it wouldn't be much more money to just run full braided lines from front to back instead and then I won't have to worry about the flaring tool or the ferrel way leaking


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454ragtop

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Not real enthused with the braided line from front to back idea, but if you must, make sure it's not a rubber lined hose. Todays **** gas attacks that stuff in no time. I'd do it in hard line, keep the flex stuff to a minimum. Or how about the nylon line like is used in new cars? Have a kit for that in the classifieds.
Jim
 

Chris83

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I have the older version of the ridgid flaring tool posted above and used it lots on aluminum, steel and stainless with no problems. Has held up to over 100 flares on 3/8 .035 stainless tubing.
 

finn

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The cheap tool works fine for aluminum tubing.

I wouldn't recommend long lengths of braided hose. That stuff is like a saw if it is subject to vibration and contacts anything.
 

azhatchback

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Not real enthused with the braided line from front to back idea, but if you must, make sure it's not a rubber lined hose. Todays **** gas attacks that stuff in no time. I'd do it in hard line, keep the flex stuff to a minimum. Or how about the nylon line like is used in new cars? Have a kit for that in the classifieds.
Jim

As this man said. You need 30R9 rated hose to put up with today's fuel. This type of hose will not permeate fuel vapor or turn to mush. If you run lead based race gas use the cheap ****.

As far as the fuel side of things go:
With aluminum line you want to single flare not double flare for AN tube nut and sleeve. I only double flare aluminum when one side is not supported such as pick up tubes or in tank returns. Also you want to start the line with your flare tool of choice and finish it off with the AN fitting using plenty of lube. I use sewing machine oil when I do this. It does not matter if it is 45 or 37 tool as the AN fitting will finish the flare, this only applies to aluminum. With aluminum, if you finish the flare with the tool it will over flare the soft line and you will not be able to get the tube nut past the flare. Once you cinch the AN fitting Don't be alarmed if the tube nut does not slide off the flare and back down the line. just leave it were it wants to be so you don't **** up the flare. The flare will fill the conical area and the tube nut threads will catch the flare preventing the nut from sliding back.

Check out summit racing premium hose for best deals. It has the 30R9 rating and if you need more info go to parker hose and see what they say about it. Another very expensive and not as flexible option is PTFE hose but if you get the right rubber hose PTFE will not be needed. PTFE has it's own devils with static build up and what not. You should use PTFE for hydraulic lines and if you insist on it for fuel you need carbon imprgnated PTFE so you can ground the hose to the brided steel and fittings to avoid static discharge and pin holing your teflon hose. If you are going to run E85 I would do PTFE. I can vouch for the summit premium hose, it is awesome.

Also if you use 3/8 line you will use 6AN hose and fittings for soft connections. no point in going bigger since your line will be the restriction at 3/8. larger braided hose will be more expensive.

Everything I have told you is from directly speaking with hose and fitting manufacture recommendations that have not failed me. There are lots of myths floating around about all this stuff. For your safety talk to a manufacture if you have questions.

Make sure you double flare for brake lines or inverted bubble flare where needed. Some times on proportioning valves or odd ball master cylinders like fox mustangs. Also use seamless steel or stainless, no aluminum for brake lines. PM me if you have any questions.
 
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azhatchback

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Sent you a PM on a build I did recently. It explains flares and AN's very well.
 
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azhatchback

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So I talked to a guy from JEGS today and asked him about the cheap flaring tool to flare 37* lines and he told me flaring them isn't necessary if I go with something like this that comes with a ferrel that smashes in at the end.
This picture doesn't show the ferrel but..
1bc71958e345178d7c3ed5a2021729ec.jpg


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This is probably very similar to a Swage lock ferrule fitting. I use these on cooling water lines at work on industrial machinary. The ferrule pushes and bites hard on the line. If you over tighten it on aluminium which would not take much effort it can be very risky. I have used these on Teflon line but after a few disconnects it breaks were the ferrule cuts into the line. They do work great on stainless line. I have even used them on stainless for a vacuum fit and they work well. Do not use these!!! Like the other poster said tube nut and sleeve are much better and more serviceable. I personally like Fragola fittings.
 
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zmotorsports

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I have an older Rolo-Flair 37* tool but about 6 years or so ago I purchased the 37* adapter set for my Mastercraft hydraulic flaring tool. LOVE it and highly recommend it.

Mike.
 
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dmw16

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I used flex lines for my race car's fuel system, and it was a pain in the **** and expensive. The flex lines need to be PTFE lined to deal with modern fuel and you'll need at least -6 (if not -8) size lines.

If you're running a fuel cell then the flex lines make a little more sense, but if you're using the stock system I think mimicking the stock hard lines is the best route.

If I were to do it over again I'd have done hard lines to the engine firewall and then braided lines from the firewall to the fuel rail.
 

rande

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Apr 3, 2008
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I'll second (or is it third? fourth? fifth?) the Rigid tool. When I re-ran my trailer brake lines I tried several tools and ended up taking them all back. Then I tried the Rigid. It worked easier than the other brands and worked correctly the first time. 10 years now and the trailer hasn't leaked a drop.
 

My Old Tools

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The cheap flare tools will work in almost any material if you clamp the whole thing in a good vise instead of relying on the thumb screw clamp. I did stainless fuel lines with my no name tool. Can't do it under the car obviously.
 

MattVette89

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Nov 27, 2014
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SW Chicago
So I talked to a guy from JEGS today and asked him about the cheap flaring tool to flare 37* lines and he told me flaring them isn't necessary if I go with something like this that comes with a ferrel that smashes in at the end.
This picture doesn't show the ferrel but..
1bc71958e345178d7c3ed5a2021729ec.jpg


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I used those on my trans lines to cooler. Worked great, no leaks. If you care about aesthetics, you'll need the special wrench.
 

COSMOS

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Mar 8, 2014
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Phoenix, Az.

I have some transmission and power steering lines I need to repair the flexible sections on an Duramax LBZ re-using the OEM lines. Has any one used the above tool on a steel lines.? The link states not for stainless steel tubing, could the steel lines be in the same category and should I just CMA and purchase this one below instead which is good for hardened steel.?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/hidutyflaringtool.php?clickkey=35630



Also, any one use nut and tube fittings from McMaster Carr or should I just stick with Eaton-Aeroquip steel fittings...?
 
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