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Single Phase Magnetic Starter Question

pitttrack

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Aug 28, 2017
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72
I recently purchased a tool with a nice Baldor TEFC 1.0 HP single phase motor in it. As for a switch the unit has a recessed box that back in the 70s or 80's contained a switch (similar to what I linked below). Over time someone replaced it with a plastic switch like this one (link). When I tried out the tool in the manner that I want to use it I quickly determined that it's a bit underpowered (it's an older but American made jointer). I first thought about just plopping in a 1.5HP Baldor as that is the same footprint but then I read where a shelix head is best ran on a 2.0 HP. My first thought was to upgrade to a 2.0 Baldor (USA made) but due to space constraints in the base (where it's housed) I have to go with something like a Dayton to get in the 2.0 range.

Anyways I'm proab going to pull the trigger on the motor (link ) and run it as 230 since I have a 6-20 receptacle already in the garage for my table saw.

My first instinct is to listen to the one post I found from a few years back on here and get a switch and put it into the base ( Link) but I tend to over complicate things so I was thinking magnetic starter for safety as the table saw has that. On the table saw I have an 8" pigtail with a male plug on it so that when I need to change blades I don't have to walk over and unplug it at the wall. I could easily put on a pigtail to this tool though I don't need to unplug it except for when I'm done. and I can use that same cord.

If I got the magnetic starter route I want to go with a metal box as those Grizzly ones are all plastic. Anyway with the motor being 9.7 amps I am curious if the following will work as it's rated for 9amps Contactor and Enclosure.

Or do I need to up the size to something else? I am open to other stuff but again I want to go to a metal enclosure if I do go this route all while staying under $110 or so.

I started specing out things from Zoro as the bigger Baldor won't fit and I started looking for Leeson and Dayton motors as I've had decent experiences with them. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything used so I started looking at new and with Zoro's 20% off sale (min $250 spend) I am leaning that way.

Any perspective is greatly appreciated. I thought to get an old 3 phase motor but I don't feel like screwing with a VFD as the time and extra cost would most likely be a wash compared to a new one for $235 (AC) though it's made outside the US.
 
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Aceman

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Jan 28, 2007
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I don't see any benefit to a mag starter unless the motor you purchase/have does NOT have integral overload protection.

If it has integral overload protection, I would just use the switch you linked, the Leviton rated for 5hp 240v and be done with it. The switch should last a long time.
 

walta

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Jan 13, 2017
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Location
Dutzow Missouri
My first question is how big is this jointer? 1HP should be more than enough for 12 inches. Are we talking about a 16 or 20 inch machine?

The next question is does the motor have internal overload protection, likes a reset button? Read the label on the motor it will tell you.

I wanted a magnetic switch for a 16” bandsaw with a thermally protected motor. I bought the whole set up for a Laguna table saw for less than $100 as I recall it was plug and play complete with cords.

I like magnets switches because in the event of a power outages, I do not have to worry about the tool starting when the power is restored. I know it is unlikely but it makes me feel better.

Walta
 
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pitttrack

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Aug 28, 2017
Messages
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Thanks for the info, about 20 min after posting I ordered that switch as $20 vs ~$110 is a bit much. The motor I spec'd says auto motor thermal protection so I should be good, thanks for that bit.

I have an 8" jointer and when taking 1/16" bites to face plane it's recommended to have a good 1.5 HP - 2.0 HP. I checked with a few places including Powermatic with that question.

I am curious about my initial question though as it would be a good learning exercise for me. Will a motor wired for 230V having a draw of 9.7 amp work with the contactor that I posted (rated @ 9 amp, if now how large of one should one get to size it right?
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,032
Location
Modesto, CA
Thanks for the info, about 20 min after posting I ordered that switch as $20 vs ~$110 is a bit much. The motor I spec'd says auto motor thermal protection so I should be good, thanks for that bit.

I have an 8" jointer and when taking 1/16" bites to face plane it's recommended to have a good 1.5 HP - 2.0 HP. I checked with a few places including Powermatic with that question.

I am curious about my initial question though as it would be a good learning exercise for me. Will a motor wired for 230V having a draw of 9.7 amp work with the contactor that I posted (rated @ 9 amp, if now how large of one should one get to size it right?

you need a motor rated contactor which are sized by HP not amperage...
 
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