Sip

[pitterpat]

How much insulation does SIP panels add. Saw a CL add here in my area for some sip panels and thought they would be a good choice for my 2nd gar which has no insulation. It was $150 for a lot of panels. Is it worth it?
Thanks, Pat

 

[Highbeam]

The SIP panels that I've seen are twl layers of osb with foam in the middle. The panel thickness will determine R-value. R-5 per inch of foam.

 

[pitterpat]

The SIP panels that I've seen are twl layers of osb with foam in the middle. The panel thickness will determine R-value. R-5 per inch of foam.

Thanks, there are 85 - 2' x 47" panels and 53 4' x 8' panels. left msg, may be a good deal.

 

[jack stand]

Most of the benefit from SIP's construction is form the "tightness" of the structure, that is air infiltration. This is where a SIP's house or bldg gains highly in heating/cooling efficiencies. The foam is usually the white "coffee cup" type that is the lowest value per inch of all the foam insulations. If you have plenty of time to TRY to strip off the OSB from the foam, and you stuff it in your wall cavity and seal it some how..... How cheap is it really? But it will work.

 

[pitterpat]

Most of the benefit from SIP's construction is form the "tightness" of the structure, that is air infiltration. This is where a SIP's house or bldg gains highly in heating/cooling efficiencies. The foam is usually the white "coffee cup" type that is the lowest value per inch of all the foam insulations. If you have plenty of time to TRY to strip off the OSB from the foam, and you stuff it in your wall cavity and seal it some how..... How cheap is it really? But it will work.

Thanks for the info.....as you can see I know nothing about SIP's. The CL add says "foam board"; if they don't call me back I have nothing to worry abt. Thanks

 

[Randy in Maine]

I used these SIP panels to construct my garage (40'x28'x12' ceilings) from these guys.....6 5/8" thick an it is all seamed togeather ..panel to panel...with "Great Stuff Pro Foam". Lots of construction adhesive on the top and bottoms. Very tight. Very strong. Superstorm Sandy did not generate so much as a wisper of air infiltration, but we did not take a direct hit here. Roughtly R-38 to R-40 walls.

http://www.murus.com/specs/osb-2100pur/

I also got similar "ceiling panels" for the ceiling. About the same R-value. The truss roof on top of that is outdoor cold 28º this morning.

I just today turned on the 1000 feet of radiant floor heat tubing in the insulated slab and it is quite cozy in there ~55º. We shall see how well it performs over the winter.

 

[Highbeam]

The foam is usually the white "coffee cup" type that is the lowest value per inch of all the foam insulations.

Where did you get that information? I have found that all foam polystyrene foam whether pink, white, or blue provides the same R5 insulation per inch. The yellow polyiso weird foam is a tad higher in R value but cost is much higher.

A lot of people spew off false information about EPS.

 

[walrus]

SIPs decouple the frame also. Standard stud wall lose alot of heat where the studs are, no insulation, conduction thru the stud. SIPs don't suffer that.

 

[ishiboo]

SIPs are by far the way to go for a 1-story in a climate. Disadvantage for wiring/plumbing in the walls though!

 

[Randy in Maine]

My wiring is all surface mounted conduit on the inside. My plumbing is limited to hot and cold water to the "garden hoses" and was no problem. I have been out there all day today and it was very comfy.

I really wish my house was this tight.

 

[jack stand]

Where did you get that information? I have found that all foam polystyrene foam whether pink, white, or blue provides the same R5 insulation per inch. The yellow polyiso weird foam is a tad higher in R value but cost is much higher.

A lot of people spew off false information about EPS.

Color don't mean chit! I'm not an expert but have been using foam insulation for a long time and as far as I know, there are basically 3 types of foam insulation and I'm not positive but in a few seconds on the web.......
1 the white coffee cup
2 the blue or pink
3 polyiso. usually yellowish
This is the order of insulation value as I know it to be (lowest to highest) and as I remember #1is only about 3.5 to 4 per inch where #3 is about 6.5. I'd call that a considerable difference.

 

[NewtownJim]

Hi, new to the forum. I am planning a 32 x 50 x12 garage with sips. I plan on using
Thermocore.com sips all closed cell polyurethane between OSB layers. They have 4 in, 4.5 in, 6.5 in, and 8 in . They will cnc cut all window, door, pocket beams and install all headers and frame your windows and doors. Also they will add electrical boxes with 3/4
conduit. still same price. They start about $5.20 ft2 for the 4 in (R24)

The roof panels are 6.5 inch R40. Polyurethane is way better than the coffee cup stuff especially when you put a match to it. If you use 4 inch panels your window and door jambs will be standard. If you want to go 2 story try the 4.5 inch and you can include 2x material in the sip wall and hang your second floor from joist hangers if you wish/can. Still preliminary but plan 4.5inch walls and 6.5 inch roof panels.

Thats my sip contribution.

I'd like to do radiant heat. Do you need a 6 inch pour or is a 4inch pour adequate with 1/2 inch pex? Thanks!

 

[Randy in Maine]

Mine is probably a little diffferent than your will be as I am set up for a 2 post car lift. On top of my well comacted fill, I have a poly vapor barrier, then 2" of radiant floor foam, then some woven wire. The wire is just to clip the 1/2" PEX tubing to. Then I have 6" of 4000 psi concrete with fiberglass mesh.

Under where the car lift posts go, I did not lay the 2" foam. I opted to swap 2" of more concrete there. You do not want any radiant floor heat tubing within about 3' of where the car lift posts go.

If you are going to have a serious meat air compressor installed that gets bolted to the concrete floor, don't put any tubing around there either.

I forgot to install any pull pots (usefull if you ever need to hook up a winch to pull something in).

Get the tubing pressure tested before pouring the concrete.

 

[NewtownJim]

Thanks Randy,

I've got a little planning to do on where I may screw into the floor in the future
for various projects and also how i can hang a small boat or 2 from above
with the SIP panels. Haven't quite figured out best way to span/support the
roof panels and be able to occasionally hang a canoe or kayak and store
off the floor. I check other threads for the 4inch pour question.

 

[jack stand]

Randy, I am very intrigued with SIP's const. esp. for a house. I (stick) built a shop and super insulated it with 3" of ridgid iso. foamed in place & 3.5" of FG on top. I have 2 12x14 & a 10x12 garage doors (456 s/f) and wonder if a similar shop, only SIP's const. would be worth it with the poor insulating performance of the OHD's. In other words, basically 1 of the 4 walls is mostly doors (in my shop) & the weak link in the insulation "envelope" of a bldg. Are you in the above situation and do you feel that the added cost and effort of using SIP's over conventional framing was worth it for a garage?

I took a 3 day class on SIP's const. and it's amazing how tight you can get a house vs. conventional stud wall bldg, even with the utmost attention to prevent air infilatration using all the traditional sill sealing, bldg, wrap, caulking wires & pipes, etc. If I remember right, a SIP's house is something like 12X "tighter" than a framed house! It is to the point that the instructors said that you need to tell your HVAC guy that the V (ventilation) in his trade can not be overlooked in a SIP's house!

 

[Randy in Maine]

Come on down. I will PM you my address and phone number.