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Rickkal

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
13
Looking to build a 3 car that will be into a hillside.The complete length of the rear wall and half or so of the sides will be below grade.Thinking about concerte block on at least those sections but not sure if it's better to do all block or stick frame the above grade portions.

My real question is if I stay under 1000 sq ft no building permit or formal plans are required. So do I build 37'4" x 26'8" , 36 x 27'4" or 35'4" x 28' ?
Those dimensions all seem to work for all full or a 1/2 block in each course.

The main use of the garage will be parking and some work. I already have a 14x20 shed for yard equiptment and will be retaining the use of one of the 2 bays of the attached garage under the house.
 
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JakeKohl

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Feb 23, 2012
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1,365
Location
Greenville, SC
your numbers are odd...usually block construction and framing construction follow similar dimensions. Are you taking measurements directly off some cast blocks? (remember mortar joints!). If you are stick building the front, also consider falling into even lumber sizing....

Also note that for a project of this magnitude, the expenses related to a permit are a tiny portion. It seems like you are considering a lot of trouble to avoid something that is not much of a problem.
 
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Rickkal

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
13
True permit is only $400 but along with that comes needing full sets of plans and scheduling & waiting for inspectors.

As far as dimensions go I figured finished block size is 16" with the motar joint.
37'4"= 448" divided by 16"= 28 blocks
26'8"=320" divided by 16"= 20 blocks
and so on or was I incorrect in calculating it that way?

Didn't want block layers to have cuts on every course.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
I like your middle size.

Stick above the block will be less expensive if it is going to be high enough.
I would say a four foot band would be minimum.
Otherwise just use block for the whole thing.

Be sure to do a well sloped curtain drain around the base and oversized gutters and downspouts routed to the downhill side.
 
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hh76

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Nov 9, 2010
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NE Wisconsin
Also note that for a project of this magnitude, the expenses related to a permit are a tiny portion. It seems like you are considering a lot of trouble to avoid something that is not much of a problem.

Agreed. Most people make the inspection process out to be far worse than it actually is. I'd figure out the ideal size for me, and be happy in the future rather then worry about the ideal size to avoid the permit.
 
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Rickkal

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
13
It's not the inspections that conserns me(I have some great subs lined up) it's the 1 to 2K I've been quoted for plans and details required for the permit.
 

csp

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Joined
Mar 23, 2010
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5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
Are your dimensions taking into the account the mortar joint width between blocks? I have no experience with blocks whatsoever so I don't know how they are sized.
 
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