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Sizing Circuits based on locations and appliances

woodzy

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Messages
248
Location
Se Michigan
My sons and I did all the electrical work on my new house. Both of the sons are electricians. When I asked my inspector on how to calculate load, he really did not have an answer.

If my sons did not help me, I would be running 12-2 everywhere and would be using 20 amp breakers. My sons thought that was crazy and best to use 14-2 (15 amp) and just add more circuits. They said only use 12-2 where you need a 20 amp circuit based on load calculations. My son was given this schedule and really is a very good base point to calculate total loads based on what type of item would be plugged into, or where it is located. This is not gospel, but I would guess if an inspector saw you used something to calculate your loads it would go a long way getting your inspection passed.

Here is the schedule:




I must say, after finishing up on the electrical, using the 14 gauge wire was a pleasure to work with as the 20 gauge wire takes more finesse getting it all into the boxes with the outlets. When I talked to the inspector about using 15 amp circuits anywhere I could he said that, that sounded like some advice from people that do this all the time and make perfect sense.

We did not use one circuit for each room and also included lights and outlets on the same circuit in the bedrooms. I would not do this in a work shop but the odds of blowing the breaker in the bedroom is slight. I was only required to use AFCI in the bedrooms.

Just to give you an idea on how we placed the outlets, we started at the bedroom door and first outlet was to be within 6 feet of the door and then went around the room with a 12' distance max. If there was a place we really wanted an outlet, we added one at that location. Using the schedule above and stopped when we got to 1500 or 2000 based on the size of the wire. If there was less than 200 we ended that circuit and went to the next one.
 
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Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
The only comment I have is that when I re-wired our last house, I made sure to put lights and plugs on different circuits on a per-room basis. It's not about blowing a breaker, it's about servicing a fixture or outlet. And they will break, fail, etc. Turning off the whole room to work on a ceiling fan, then running a cord from another room is just a PITA that's easily avoided. IMHO.
 

gtae07

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Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
3,016
Location
Fayetteville, GA
The only comment I have is that when I re-wired our last house, I made sure to put lights and plugs on different circuits on a per-room basis. It's not about blowing a breaker, it's about servicing a fixture or outlet. And they will break, fail, etc. Turning off the whole room to work on a ceiling fan, then running a cord from another room is just a PITA that's easily avoided. IMHO.

Very good point, especially if you don't have the assistance of natural daylight when you're working on the light fixtures and fan.

I've only wired my shop and an additional circuit in the garage, not a whole house, but I like having multiple circuits as much as practical. It makes maintenance and fault isolation easier. I also made sure to have my lighting on two separate circuits so I don't have to kill all the lights if I have to work on them.

Above all else, though, make sure your circuits are labeled clearly and correctly. It's mighty inconvenient when you see four circuits labeled only "bedroom"; it's dangerous when you have "dishwasher" and "disposal" switched at the panel. Got a set of notched out wire cutters and stained pants to prove it :shocking:
 

nadogail

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Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
32,274
Location
Coronado, CA
The chart is very handy for a typical residence, maybe like in a tract home.

For a garage/workshop you are in a separate reality. There are unknown variables that no "standard" chart could ever work for, such as: the retired guy who now bought "man toys" like a welder, compressor, planer, table saw, or maybe even an ironworker or a lift.

Useful garages are a work in progress, old or smaller equipment being moved out to make room for new (to us) toys.

in my opinion, workshop/garage electrical installations are, like life, a work in progress or temporary.
 
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zmaxmotorsports

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
11,948
Location
South of omaha
My sons and I did all the electrical work on my new house. Both of the sons are electricians. When I asked my inspector on how to calculate load, he really did not have an answer.

If my sons did not help me, I would be running 12-2 everywhere and would be using 20 amp breakers. My sons thought that was crazy and best to use 14-2 (15 amp) and just add more circuits. They said only use 12-2 where you need a 20 amp circuit based on load calculations. My son was given this schedule and really is a very good base point to calculate total loads based on what type of item would be plugged into, or where it is located. This is not gospel, but I would guess if an inspector saw you used something to calculate your loads it would go a long way getting your inspection passed.

Here is the schedule:




I must say, after finishing up on the electrical, using the 14 gauge wire was a pleasure to work with as the 20 gauge wire takes more finesse getting it all into the boxes with the outlets. When I talked to the inspector about using 15 amp circuits anywhere I could he said that, that sounded like some advice from people that do this all the time and make perfect sense.

We did not use one circuit for each room and also included lights and outlets on the same circuit in the bedrooms. I would not do this in a work shop but the odds of blowing the breaker in the bedroom is slight. I was only required to use AFCI in the bedrooms.

Just to give you an idea on how we placed the outlets, we started at the bedroom door and first outlet was to be within 6 feet of the door and then went around the room with a 12' distance max. If there was a place we really wanted an outlet, we added one at that location. Using the schedule above and stopped when we got to 1500 or 2000 based on the size of the wire. If there was less than 200 we ended that circuit and went to the next one.

Uh ,yeah.
The 6/12 rule is the maximum,if you go by that youll end up with some really odd looking wiring/outlets in my experience anyway.
I prefer to keep all of my outlets uniform looking and centered as best as possible within 6' or less of any door and within the 12' rule and centered on walls .
If the 12' doesn't work with my layout Ill add an extra put on the wall spaced the same distance from the opposite corner as the previous outlet.
Does it take more materials? Does it look better? Hell yes!;)
As far as sharing circuits with different rooms to save on wire and afci breakers,when you figure what it costs to build a house these days another $200-$300 for extra afcis on extra circuits is a drop in the bucket compared to the headaches down the road chasing a circuit from room to room.
As far as adding up numbers off of a sheet to figure out how run the circuits in a house,I don't know what to tell you.
If I ever saw one of my guys on a job using something like that to wire a house Id give him the boot shortly there after.
Yeah me and Thomas Edison did our apprenticeship together!;)
 

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,239
Location
Modesto, CA
Typically there is one lighting circuit per floor.

Not true.

I live in a single story house and have 3 light circuits...

Interesting comment from a pro !

I find #12 Romex a pain to run through a bunch of studs. Likely there is a trick I don't know !

Why limit your ampacity because its a pain to pull? I dont notice much. What size holes are u using?

Also, the gain in ampacity outweighs the cost...
 

CNGsaves

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Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
Strange ways certain people wire a house. At friend's house, I've found they went with the "Circuits for lights" and "Circuits for outlets" approach. However, think that was mainly because they wired lights from topside when house was being built . . . ie easy to string all the lights from above.

SO . . . . . I'm putting in bathroom exhaust fan so killed the breaker for the bathroom light. That breaker killed Lights for ALL rooms on that end of house (3 bedrooms, and both bathrooms) . . . . AND . . . . killed lights for laundry room at complete opposite end of house !!! :eyecrazy:

ALL were on a 20 amp circuit and wire from 1970 is some tough heavy ****. It makes the new 12 gauge look flexible and small. ;)
 

zmaxmotorsports

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
11,948
Location
South of omaha
Strange ways certain people wire a house. At friend's house, I've found they went with the "Circuits for lights" and "Circuits for outlets" approach. However, think that was mainly because they wired lights from topside when house was being built . . . ie easy to string all the lights from above.

SO . . . . . I'm putting in bathroom exhaust fan so killed the breaker for the bathroom light. That breaker killed Lights for ALL rooms on that end of house (3 bedrooms, and both bathrooms) . . . . AND . . . . killed lights for laundry room at complete opposite end of house !!! :eyecrazy:

ALL were on a 20 amp circuit and wire from 1970 is some tough heavy ****. It makes the new 12 gauge look flexible and small. ;)

:beer::beer::beer::beer:
 

MushCreek

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Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,973
Location
Upstate South Carolina
I ran all 20A for the outlets in my new house. I also have a lot of circuits! I only went 15A on the lighting circuits, and with all LED, I could easily run the whole house on one circuit, although I wound up with 4 lighting circuits. I'm no pro, and tend to over build, but I didn't have any trouble working with the 12 ga. wire, and it wasn't that much more money. Our last house was a wiring disaster, with kitchen circuits mixed with other circuits, and all 15A, so we used to pop breakers from time to time.

20A circuits are required in a number of areas now- kitchens, baths, outdoor, garage, etc.
 
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