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Sizing HVAC Units

glentre

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Gloucester, Virginia
There have been a number of threads here in the General Garage Discussion forum recently regarding sizing HVAC units for garages. All seem to be sizing their equipment on rule of thumb ideas, generally on a sq ft per ton basis which is useful only to get in the ballpark of what size unit may be required. There is no substitute for doing an actual load calculation on the garage. Even though two buildings may be about the same size, there may be a huge difference in geographical/climate location, insulation and building materials used plus the intended use (how often the big doors will be opened for example).

HVAC units are manufactured to remove a fixed ratio of sensible heat (temperature) and latent heat (moisture), usually in the 75 to 85 % range. Many think oversizing their unit is a safe decision since this will make sure they have a system large enough to keep them cool. The result is the oversized unit will quickly meet the sensible (temperature) load and then shut off before taking care of the latent (moisture) load because that is inherent in its design. This gives you a satisfactorily cool garage temperature-wise but with high humidity levels. Complicating the problem is the unit (being too large for the load) will cycle off and on throughout the day which results in air moving through an already wet evaporator coil and further increasing the humidity level in the space. This is why spaces with high latent (moisture) loads (think dance or night clubs) need to purposely oversize their units in order to be able to remove the humidity to comfortable levels and then use reheat coils in the ductwork to raise the room temperatures so the occupants don't feel too cold.

Sizing the unit much too small is not good either because it will be incapable of cooling the space to desirable temperatures, although it will be better from a moisture removing standpoint than an oversized unit and will be more economical.

The best way is to size the unit based on accurate load calculations and an understanding of how the garage is going to be used. Many use architects to design their buildings because they are not knowledgeable enough themselves but they feel selecting a HVAC unit can be based on general rules of thumb. Load and use calculations are complicated. If budget allows, a HVAC engineer is preferred. Or, a HVAC contractor who knows how to do these calculations would also suffice. Even a DIY owner can look to the internet for load calculation information. The point is, selecting a unit correctly is not an easy thing to do and should be well thought out before going ahead with this important decision.

Glen
 
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19Vert64

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Probably better off posted in the heating and ac section


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glentre

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Gloucester, Virginia
Yes, it should be in the HVAC section but I posted it here because of the many folks in this section that do not read the other forums and, therefore, would not get a chance to review my point about sizing units. Hope the moderators leave it here for that reason.

Glen
 

ItsNemo

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Isn't this common knowledge? I'm not seeing the need for a thread for just giving out info on proper AC sizing?
 
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glentre

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May 21, 2016
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Gloucester, Virginia
Isn't this common knowledge? I'm not seeing the need for a thread for just giving out info on proper AC sizing?

Apparently not common knowledge on the General Garage Discussion section of this forum and that is why I posted it there. Many posts there when a discussion comes up regarding sizing HVAC units are uncertain about it or just select based on sq ft per ton. Just trying to help guys who don't normally read this HVAC part of Garage Journal.

Glen
 

Jim greengo

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Behind my house
Theres only so many differant sizes of furnaces and condensing units made by any manufacturer,so basic square footage rule generally works pretty good for cooling anyway.
What happens when you do your load calculation formula and decide the house or garage needs a certain amount of heating and cooling based off the fact the windows and doors are junk,and you have no insulation in walls or ceiling.
And then 2 months later you decide to put a foot of insulation in the attic,or new windows and doors?
Suddenly your equipment is oversized for the square footage of the building.:dunno:
 
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Jking24

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Feb 27, 2018
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This is not intended to be sarcastic in any way. Honest question here. Alot of ac guys get on here and basically tell you that you don't know what you like and that if you prefer your house or garage for that matter at 68°or lower. This means you have humidity problems and likely have an oversized system and that you would be much happier at 74-76 with proper humidity control. While i understand their point this is not true for everyone. What does a professional company do when the heat calc gets it wrong and the system doesent fit the customers needs/ wants. In my experience their are additional ways to get extra humidity out but not much you can do with a system that just can't handle the demand.
 

jjrbus

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Florida
One would think it is common knowledge, but even many ac company's do not do it. The old I been doing this for 20 years, I know what is needed routine.
 

danski0224

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Near Naperville, IL
This is not intended to be sarcastic in any way. Honest question here. Alot of ac guys get on here and basically tell you that you don't know what you like and that if you prefer your house or garage for that matter at 68°or lower. This means you have humidity problems and likely have an oversized system and that you would be much happier at 74-76 with proper humidity control. While i understand their point this is not true for everyone. What does a professional company do when the heat calc gets it wrong and the system doesent fit the customers needs/ wants. In my experience their are additional ways to get extra humidity out but not much you can do with a system that just can't handle the demand.

You ask the customer what they want, and go from there.

The contractor always has to ask what the customer sets their thermostat at.

If the customer still insists on a piece of equipment that's way outside of what a load calculation comes up with, that gets written into the proposal and any comfort issues resulting from that or other declined work is not my problem.
 

Jackfre

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Back in the early '00's I had a customer find and compile Gov't Weather Statistics on all the primary weather stations across the country in temp by hours graphs. You could pick the closest to you station and it gave how many hours/year you were at a particular temp, in 5* increments. Essentially you would see that the lowest temps (design conditions) were reached about 2% of the heating hours in a season. Of course you use design condition to size a central system so if you mate it to DC and you select your equipment based upon that, you are oversized about 95% of the heating season. Then you get a contractor who can't believe the sizing says a 50 kbtu can handle the space and doesn't want Mrs Magillicuddy calling him on a Xmas eve saying she is cold with her new system. So the contractor throws a 75 or 100 unit at it to make sure she has plenty. "The advantage, Mrs M is that when you double the size of the house you won't have to mess with the heating equipment." A joke? Yes, but not far off. Anyway you end up oversized by design and selection. You can hardly blame the contractor as he really has no idea how the place is really built, at least on a retrofit.
Even with mini-splits run a manual J and then run the sizing on Fujitsu's site and you will end up with a smaller unit on Fujitsu's sizing program. Why, well the manual J makes accommodation for duct losses and such.
For sizing, I like the sheet of paper with three sq holes of different sizes. You move 75' away from the building and hold the paper up at arms length and gauge the equipment size by which window encompasses the entire building. The baby, Mama & Papa analogy isn't to far off;)
 

kai96

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Sep 6, 2020
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Location
grand rapids
Our 1700 sq ft house has a 3 ton unit..
It is perfect except when the tempos get above 85 in the summer..
Then the system cannot keep up with the load between 5 and 7 PMwhen the wife cooks dinner..
Would a 4 ton unit help?
 

danski0224

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Near Naperville, IL
Our 1700 sq ft house has a 3 ton unit..
It is perfect except when the tempos get above 85 in the summer..
Then the system cannot keep up with the load between 5 and 7 PMwhen the wife cooks dinner..
Would a 4 ton unit help?

Only if the rest of the system can move the required airflow.

I have yet to come across a 4 ton or larger system that meets the required basic installation requirements.

I have yet to come across a ducted system built after the graduated reducing trunkline system in houses built right after WWII that will handle the required airflow.

Most installs I have seen are all cap and tap, which is brutal for airflow.

You should pay for a system diagnostic before plunking down the money for a bigger AC unit. I'd bet that your ductwork isn't even adequate for 3 tons of airflow.
 
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