Building a 10x24 garage/shed. Putting it on 4x4’s so it can be put on a trailer to be moved in the future but the longest 4x4’s I can find are 16’ long. What is the best way to secure a 16’ and 8’ beam so it can be drug “dragged” onto a trailer?
Skids to make large shed mobile
- Thread starter -Mischief
- Start date
I am planning on building a 24x24 portable building. I'm not building a floor just make the bottom plate strong enough to sit directly on the ground. I want to use 3 1/2" oil well pipe. Strong, won't rot, and it's fairly cheap. It's 30' long so no need for any splices. Also you can weld it
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6x6s would help a lot.
12x24 would make better use of material.
6x6 would be much better on a shed this size, and I'd just do a big lap joint (bolted) to get the length needed. The 6" gives a lot more "meat" to cut an angle in the ends, which will help get it in the trailer.
10' makes sense, as I think that avoids an oversized permit for transport
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Sorry, autocorrect.
Do a big lap joint. Cut each 6x halfway through, a coupl feet long, and bolt that together
jack stand
Well-known member
I believe that the "shed" builders use the wall structure design as more of the strength needed during loading/unloading than the 4x4 base.
I think that there's a standard spread/layout for these so that it matches the modern shed trailers "track" and support that I would find out first. They're more "runners" than structural support, a common Pt SYP 4x4 really doesn't have much strength.
Stagger your joints on your 4x4's is about all you can do.
I think that there's a standard spread/layout for these so that it matches the modern shed trailers "track" and support that I would find out first. They're more "runners" than structural support, a common Pt SYP 4x4 really doesn't have much strength.
Stagger your joints on your 4x4's is about all you can do.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You could always make a 3 ply 2x6 beam
CraigStu
Well-known member
I like this idea the best. Nothing fancy needed. Just some good construction adhesive and screws.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Over achiever. I'd just slap it together with a **** load of galv ring shanks
readhead
Well-known member
On our sheds over 16’ we laminate four 2x6pt for the two main skids in the center and laminate two 2x6pt for the skids under the side walls. Put the center skids 5’ on center so that the building will slide onto a shed trailer. Anything over 8’-6” requires an oversized permit.
Spareparts
Well-known member
I like PC's idea with a little twist, instead of a Lap Joint side by side with a 4 to 5' overlap bolted together
with several carriage bolts, A 45 degree angle cut on all 4 leading edges to avoid any snags while loading.
Biggest reason for me is I would probally screw that Lap Joint up. Around here putting skids under a shed type
building makes it a portable building and not taxed as permanant structure.
with several carriage bolts, A 45 degree angle cut on all 4 leading edges to avoid any snags while loading.
Biggest reason for me is I would probally screw that Lap Joint up. Around here putting skids under a shed type
building makes it a portable building and not taxed as permanant structure.
jack stand
Well-known member
Sounds like redhead is in the industry and I'd pay attention to this information.
walta
Well-known member
motorcycle79
Well-known member
Buy a ****** pontoon and trailer. Floor beams and trailer done all In One.
jack stand
Well-known member
Apparently a 3" runner is standard if the op wants a shed guy to move it. See post #12
Not many folks worried about making a relatively small building portable has the trucks and equipment to load and move something this bulky.
Those shed trailers are close to $100k with all the hydraulic functions, then there's a $100k +/- truck to pull it!
Building a "portable" building must consider the standard requirements of the specialized equipment it takes to move it.
Not many folks worried about making a relatively small building portable has the trucks and equipment to load and move something this bulky.
Those shed trailers are close to $100k with all the hydraulic functions, then there's a $100k +/- truck to pull it!
Building a "portable" building must consider the standard requirements of the specialized equipment it takes to move it.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
There are specialized shed trailers and mules, but if it fits, it can also be dragged up onto a roll back
I don't think a typical Woodmizer isn't handling 24fters without sliding the log a ton of times.
Would need a bed extension, I think std LT40 can do 20ft... and that's a $50k+ mill. Mmore now in sure, that is 2010s pricing)
Lt10 is good for 10 or 12ft.
Shed places here just use a roll back tow truck.
bad_idea
Well-known member
I built a 8x16 shed years back that I had moved to the house I am in now. Shed was about 5 years old when I had it moved. I ran lags down through the floor joist into the 4x4s to secure them. I did every other floor joist IIRC. One lesson learned is to space your skids an appropriate distance apart. They use specialized trailers for hauling sheds, the trailers have rails spaced a set distance apart for the skids to land on. The trailer also has short straps that strap over the skids on each rail, meaning the skids can not be at the outer edge of the building. The hauler and I were able to make it work, but it was a headache.
Long story short, go to a shed seller company and measure how far apart the skids are. Also, I think the shed companies use 4x6s for the skids.
Long story short, go to a shed seller company and measure how far apart the skids are. Also, I think the shed companies use 4x6s for the skids.
bad_idea
Well-known member
You caught me. I didn't read the whole thread, read the first 5 or 6 and scrolled down to offer my advice.
