To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Slab Crack Control Lines - Scored or Sawcut?

Norcalz71

Member
Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
11
Anyone have a preference? We are hopefully getting started on grading for our new 1200 SF shop building in the next week or so, but that has not been decided. The space is a 30x23 "front" with a 22x23 stub out the back-right, so an L shape. Purpose will be storage for our boat, 1-3 trucks/toys, motorcycles, and workshop space.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
I don't want to interfere with the concrete guys.
However, from my own knowledge and points of reference you should saw-cut 1/4 the depth of the slab, while very green (next day) and the areas should not exceed 12' x 12' .

Hopefully, one of them can confirm my attempt.

Good luck!
 

Kaizen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
I prefer sawcut. Did mine myself with a chalk line, piece of plywood as a straight edge, and my circular saw with a new 25 buck diamond blade. Worked fine. One issue I had was when I went to fill with caulking stuff (I know not caulk but can’t think of term) the cut was so thin I couldn’t get even small foam backer rod down it. In the finished floor the cut goes up to the pipe as far as the saw could go and then on the other side. So from the left to the right in picture. Barely detectable
0d9d6c2ecd4a65ac6574a80ba1db2379.jpg

fc26cffb0e3c5d7e73013cc00c0184ea.jpg

bbb9ead413724fefbf17d323c3477303.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Kaizen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
I don't want to interfere with the concrete guys.
However, from my own knowledge and points of reference you should saw-cut 1/4 the depth of the slab, while very green (next day) and the areas should not exceed 12' x 12' .

Hopefully, one of them can confirm my attempt.

Good luck!



Correct from my research as well. Sections should be uniform size. My 30x36 I did nine 10x12 sections. Decided on size so I made sure a future lift did not land near a cut


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
Hint...if saw fits are too small to get backer foam in them you can fill with sand and run a screwdriver through the sand keaving about 1/4-3/8" of depth to fill with joint filler. The sand acts as the support!
 
OP
N

Norcalz71

Member
Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
11
10-4 thanks guys and I will have to check out that article. Lift is "unlikely" but we are thickening a section just in case for future.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

Lelandwelds

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Central Texas
Hint...if saw fits are too small to get backer foam in them you can fill with sand and run a screwdriver through the sand keaving about 1/4-3/8" of depth to fill with joint filler. The sand acts as the support!

There is a polymer sand which sets up and wont wash out. They use it on cement pavers. You wouldnt need much.

There is a plastic piece they place instead of saw cuts. From the end, it was shaped like an arrow and looked darn easy to install. The one I saw was almost exactly the color of wet concrete. A week later it was flush and almost invisible.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom