Renovationking
Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2017
- Messages
- 14
Hi everyone,
Well, after a large tree took out my barn this past fall I thought the hard part would be rebuilding. But it turned out to be a bunch of arguments with the insurance company. Glad that is finally over with…
Anyway, my 60X40 design is done and I have received the requisite height and area variances from my Town offices. In the next couple months I will be breaking ground and I couldn’t be more excited. The front half is a two stall garage and the back half is an RC Airplane shop that will double as a woodshop. The planes I am building these days are way too big for my current basement space. The wings are 116” and the fuselages are around nine feet; 170cc twin engine, performace exhaust…fun!
The replacement building will be stick built and sit on a frost wall. The interior wall detail at the floor has a ledge all the way around where the perimeter of the slab will be supported. The overdig will be filled with stone; the woodshop floor will be flat, the garage section will pitch to a trench drain. I will do pex in the floor; one zone for the shop one zone for the garage. I will spray foam everything and have a conditioned attic space.
I’d want to use Ampex R16 under the slab which is 4 7/8ths thick to the top of the nub. I am seeing from the spec sheet that the nubs are 1 3/8ths. I have a couple questions on details for those inclined to weigh in:
1. The panels have shiplap sides to lock together. I have seen some references to also using an adhesive (which I kinda like) but I also can’t seem to find when using an adhesive is recommended.
2. Ampex says their foam is the vapor barrier but some jurisdictions require poly regardless. I believe it is an option for me in my area, but I am thinking if I used an adhesive on the shiplap I can probably eliminate poly under the foam. Thoughts? Maybe I am overthinking it and it’s not an appreciable difference either way. What do you guys think?
3. With a 1 3/8ths height on the nub, I am wondering what the slab thickness should be. The concrete calculator for Ampex works off slab thickness measured from the top of the nubs. So does a floor with Ampex need to be thinner when compared to a floor over plain foam? In other words a 4” slab over plain foam is different than 4” over the nubs on Ampex, because in the foam voids in the Ampex floor will be 5 3/8ths. Does this get adjusted at all? The garage will have cars, a boat and a New Holland tractor during the winter months. I always thought a 4” floor would be good. Do I just go with 4” from the top of the nubs and call it a day ? If I use rebar it will sit on top of the nubs and I would hate to have rust bleed through 2” expansion cuts because the rebar will get nicked by the saw in spots.
That’s it for now. Thank you in advance for your comments!
Tom
Well, after a large tree took out my barn this past fall I thought the hard part would be rebuilding. But it turned out to be a bunch of arguments with the insurance company. Glad that is finally over with…
Anyway, my 60X40 design is done and I have received the requisite height and area variances from my Town offices. In the next couple months I will be breaking ground and I couldn’t be more excited. The front half is a two stall garage and the back half is an RC Airplane shop that will double as a woodshop. The planes I am building these days are way too big for my current basement space. The wings are 116” and the fuselages are around nine feet; 170cc twin engine, performace exhaust…fun!
The replacement building will be stick built and sit on a frost wall. The interior wall detail at the floor has a ledge all the way around where the perimeter of the slab will be supported. The overdig will be filled with stone; the woodshop floor will be flat, the garage section will pitch to a trench drain. I will do pex in the floor; one zone for the shop one zone for the garage. I will spray foam everything and have a conditioned attic space.
I’d want to use Ampex R16 under the slab which is 4 7/8ths thick to the top of the nub. I am seeing from the spec sheet that the nubs are 1 3/8ths. I have a couple questions on details for those inclined to weigh in:
1. The panels have shiplap sides to lock together. I have seen some references to also using an adhesive (which I kinda like) but I also can’t seem to find when using an adhesive is recommended.
2. Ampex says their foam is the vapor barrier but some jurisdictions require poly regardless. I believe it is an option for me in my area, but I am thinking if I used an adhesive on the shiplap I can probably eliminate poly under the foam. Thoughts? Maybe I am overthinking it and it’s not an appreciable difference either way. What do you guys think?
3. With a 1 3/8ths height on the nub, I am wondering what the slab thickness should be. The concrete calculator for Ampex works off slab thickness measured from the top of the nubs. So does a floor with Ampex need to be thinner when compared to a floor over plain foam? In other words a 4” slab over plain foam is different than 4” over the nubs on Ampex, because in the foam voids in the Ampex floor will be 5 3/8ths. Does this get adjusted at all? The garage will have cars, a boat and a New Holland tractor during the winter months. I always thought a 4” floor would be good. Do I just go with 4” from the top of the nubs and call it a day ? If I use rebar it will sit on top of the nubs and I would hate to have rust bleed through 2” expansion cuts because the rebar will get nicked by the saw in spots.
That’s it for now. Thank you in advance for your comments!
Tom
