Slatwall molding installation

[Jwithing1]

Hey folks, could use.some advice from anyone that has installed a garage full of slatwall with molding. In the middle of a new garage overhaul and had 4x8 sheets of slatwall installed over all the walls in my previous garage and would like to do the same.

My dilemma, there were a few spots in the old garage where the slatwall did not meet on a stud and consequently, the ends of the boards were not completely flush, this created an undesirable seem. I'd like to avoid this for the new install by using slatwall molding as shown below. I also want to put vinyl inserts in the slats again. Any tips/tricks to sliding the vinyl inserts in, putting the moulding up, and screwing down the side of the slatwall? I figure it will be impossible to slide the molding under the slatwall @ a stud if it's already screwed down.

I'll be doing white slatwall with white inserts FYI.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[arcasupply]

Use anchor screws

 

[Jwithing1]

Use anchor screws

Not a bad idea, but now I kinda like the idea of using the molding and completely hiding the seam vs. having it barely visible.

 

[rustyjames]

I make up my own slatwall trim with aluminum coil stock bent in a trim brake. As for the vinyl inserts you need to have at least a few inches of space at one end of the panel to get it started. Once you get the strip started you can use a pencils eraser end to feed it to the other end. Or you can stab it with something pointy to run it down the other end.
You have to shop around for that insert, some places charge a lot. I bought mine on eBay for around $10.00 per roll shipped. One roll does one 4x8 panel.

 

[Jwithing1]

I make up my own slatwall trim with aluminum coil stock bent in a trim brake. As for the vinyl inserts you need to have at least a few inches of space at one end of the panel to get it started. Once you get the strip started you can use a pencils eraser end to feed it to the other end. Or you can stab it with something pointy to run it down the other end.
You have to shop around for that insert, some places charge a lot. I bought mine on eBay for around $10.00 per roll shipped. One roll does one 4x8 panel.

Yup, I'm familiar with how the vinyl inserts work since i used them last time. My question is how do you add the inserts if you use the molding since the molding will need to go behind the panel prior to securing it, which prevents easily inserting the insert.

 

[Jwithing1]

Your question is still unclear.


Firring strips is how you really handle it all.
Anchor/nail the 1x4 strips on studs and where there are no studs.
Install slat board over nice wide easy to attache to Firring strips.
Easy, allows you to flatten the wall and shim as you go.
Seamless.

Sorry, let me try to explain. The moulding is essentially similar to a j channel, but is an I channel to cover both sides and hide the seam. Since it slides under the panels, I can't screw down the ends until I put the moulding on it. With the moulding on it, I have no access to slide the vinyl inserts in from the side. I could forego the molding, which would be cheaper and just use anchor bolts since I've already drywalled, but I kind of like the thought of the moulding now to cover all seams. It may simply not be possible.

 

[rustyjames]

Yup, I'm familiar with how the vinyl inserts work since i used them last time. My question is how do you add the inserts if you use the molding since the molding will need to go behind the panel prior to securing it, which prevents easily inserting the insert.

I don't use J channel, I just bend up aluminum angle and attach with adhesive. All my trim work is done with bent aluminum coil stock.

 

[Jwithing1]

The Moulding makes the seaming all that much more, as in MUCH MORE appearant.
You can of course put the vinyl in first.

See those seams?
Imagine how they'll show up with Moulding on them.
They're gone now.
You see them here as a they were before a second coat of paint and some tube caulk filler mixed in with some paint. Caulking mixes VERY well with paint.



Let's say your panel is 8 feet wide.
You overlap three pieces of vinyl, 24,36,48 long(you do the real math to be a able to form a one inch gap every stud width) .
No one will see the cut and you can move them on top of each other to do the screws, then space them correctly so the cut no one would see anyway is under a tool.

You're definitely right, the molding does make the seam more apparent, but it makes it more refined and finished if it's at all visible imo.

Adding another piece of vinyl inserts to slide over and cover the screw at a stud end is a great idea though. There will still be a slight seem inside the slats with that vinyl overlap, but much less visible and even hideable with a slatwall hook. The slatwall I'm getting is prefinished, so it may be difficult to paint/caulk the seems to match, but I'm thinking I may give it a try with wall anchors to stay at a cheaper price point. Thanks for the ideas!

I'm also going to use a drywall hoist this time, so I should be able to get the panels pretty close to perfectly aligned to help make seems less visible.