Sliding door lock

[johnre]

I'm looking for a way to lock a 36" x 80" sliding door to my shop that is mounted with the door and slide track exposed on the outside - and by "outside", I mean the inside of my garage.

Let me first state that having high security isn't the issue here, as I'm in an area with lots of eyes in the neighborhood. The primary defense is the outside garage roll-up door, which is as locked as these sort of things can be - an opener with electronic rolling-code access, IOW. I understand that anything that is suggested here will have vulnerabilities, but if it can just stop the quick grab-and-dash type of thief when the roll-up door is left open in the daytime, which is getting to be the most common type of theft occurrence around these parts, that will probably be good enough.

The problem is, of course, is that the lock apparatus has to be out of the way when the door is being slid open or closed, but has to easily engage when I want to lock it closed. I figure that the exposed sliding track above is vulnerable, so grabbing it at both sides in the middle or the bottom is the way to go. There is about 3" overlap on each side of the door to the opening that is framed, so it's possible to tie the door to the strongest part of the door frame, the vertical framing studs. Somehow.

I have so far thought of three approaches:

1. Mechanical cam lock - fabricate something like an oversize window sash lock, with the cam on the door and the catch on the door frame, that rotates 180 degrees and grabs like a window sash lock grabs. Then padlock it in place.
2. Mechanical acme screw, accessed through a locked panel cover on the door.
3. Electronic 12 V magnetic lock system system that's used on commercial buildings for remote entry control. like this one. It would be accessed through a number keypad, or through an override switch inside the secure part of the house:
   
   

But I'd like to try the forum for any better ideas, as I'm pretty much tapped out here. Can I get some help here?

 

[johnre]

Bump .... any ideas out there?

 

[racecougar]

Are we talking about a sliding patio door or something like a barn door track here? A photo or two might clear things up.

 

[Monza Harry]

Like @racecougar suggests some pic's with something for scale would help immensely. How about a padlock in the track, or an extended sliding dead bolt with a padlock if too high for comfortable use directly on the track?
Heavy Duty Sliding Bolt Gate Latch with Padlock Hole, Slidd Bolt Gate Lock Door Latches Hardware with Screws for Wooden Fences Barn Doors, Interior and Outdoor Door Latch, Steel(Satin Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08HJ5B1LZ?tag=atomicindus04-20 this one locks in the closed position, the one I was looking for locks in both positions, better so you can't be locked in. Harry
Edit: I found a link [Canadian] https://www.rona.ca/en/product/onward-heavy-duty-bolted-padlock-565xv-3505210

 

[cgrutt]

If you're talking about a tracked sliding door something like this might work. They come keyed as well but are only accessible from indoors.

 

[longez]

I work for a large lock company (ASSA ABLOY), and suggest you not use a direct pull mag lock as illustrated above. If you are determined on using a mag lock, use a shear type mag lock where the armature has small (anti) shear pins

 

[mattmann86]

I ran a wood screw in the track and have alarm sensors on my doors but never use them. My in laws use a broom stick lol. I have wood dials in my window tracks to keep them from being pried up as well with alarm sensors but, knock on wood, live in a great area with very little crime. Im overly conscious lol.

 

[johnre]

Are we talking about a sliding patio door or something like a barn door track here? A photo or two might clear things up.

.... some pics with something for scale would help immensely.

The Sketchup design that I used to build it is image-captured below. Studs are 16" OC and door is 36" x 80". The sliding door hardware is National Hardware (box track #450 and trolley rollers with door hangers #N183-905), and I've also clipped images of these parts below. It can't be easily taken off track, as the box track is enclosed, but it could be disassembled with tools and time, or since I just blocked the inside of the box channel with screw-in hardwood stops, these could be removed and the door simply rolled off the end of the box channel.

The double doors to the lower left are for cabinet table saw storage, and can be an alternate way out. I have a sliding bar on the inside that provides a lock for the doors, but it can be removed from the inside, so I wouldn't be accidentally locked in.

I've thought about the gate latch suggested, but those work best with a hinged swing gate or door, not a slider. And the broomstick and pin lock can only be effective on the inside for security, and can't be actuated and locked from the outside.

 

[racecougar]

If you run a search for "barn door latch" you'll find some solutions.

Google Search

 

[johnre]

If you run a search for "barn door latch" you'll find some solutions.

Thanks; that National barn door lock looks quite promising!

I've also considered some lockable pop-up mechanism on the ends of the bottom door guides, that could wedge the door between them. These guides are hammer-drilled into the concrete floor and the door covers the bolts when closed.

 

[Tinkerer2]

How about a White Double Bolt Sliding Door Lock

 

[4x4Pete]

We have a mounted turnbuckle with a hook on one end that hooks a folding loop on the wall when closed. The turnbuckles are mounted on each end of the door. You tighten the turnbuckle so the door can't be shimmied open. It holds the door closed well, I think it could work for you. Only problem might be is the only way to get in if the big door can't be opened.

 

[nmk_61802]

Is this the only door in? If so I assume it needs to lock from the outside (trackside)? Not a great way to secure this type of door from the trackside. A swing Clasp and Padlock is probably the best way if the above is correct.

 

[johnre]

Is this the only door in? If so I assume it needs to lock from the outside (trackside)?

Yes and yes (the double doors to the left in my image are for a cabinet saw, and I can bar these from the inside).

 

[johnre]

We have a mounted turnbuckle with a hook on one end that hooks a folding loop on the wall when closed.

Door is on the outside, so anything like this is exposed.

 

[4x4Pete]

Door is on the outside, so anything like this is exposed.

We happen to have another door on the horse barn that has outside doors that are done the same way. The turnbuckles are mounted to the opening edge, and there are handles that the turnbuckle hook connects to. This system works but leaves no option to open it from the other side. I'll get a couple pics today.

 

[4x4Pete]

Door is on the outside, so anything like this is exposed.

Here is a pic of the door turnbuckle

 

[johnre]

Thanks for the image. As stated earlier, this is the only way to get in, so it has two issues:

1. There is no way to put this in place from the outside.
2. And if there was, there would be no way to undo it and get in.

 

[4x4Pete]

How about a barrel bolt mounted outside on the edge of the door, pinning the door frame? It could be locked.

 

[johnre]

How about a barrel bolt mounted outside on the edge of the door, pinning the door frame? It could be locked.

I would have to extend out a stop from the wall that engages this door edge, but yes, that would work.

 

[gba2331]

My grandfather had a trick where he mounted a lock inside a door but made a hole in the outside wall and used a screwdriver to poke thru the hole and turn the lock. The trick was in putting a nail in the hole to hide it.

You could put one or two nails thru the door and into the jamb, and "hide" them by adding other decorative nails.

 

[KSJeff]

How about a barrel bolt mounted outside on the edge of the door, pinning the door frame? It could be locked.

What is the threshold? You could do something like this with a lock, but down into the concrete/threshold if that's available. That would keep the door from moving laterally. You could also weld a tube receiver on the top of the door track and push it up.

Looks like the make a swinging gate lock that you could do the same thing with and it would be keyed. Might even be able to put this on the edge of the door and fire it down to one of the metal keeps with a welded tube if you don't want it up high. Not sure how hard it would be too keep it aligned. I guess it depends on the weight of the door.

 

[gungatim]

I'd just put a regular framed door in the opening behind the slider. Keep the slider if you want, or get rid of it. A slider should never be the only way into a shop.

 

[Monza Harry]

I agree @KSJeff I suggested upwards, but in retrospect down [into the concrete] seems a better plan and those are available upto at least 5/8" dia. and they lock in both the open and closed position, preventing someone with nefarious intentions from locking you in without the key. One on both ends will prevent prying the door bottom outwards and sliding both. My first suggestion will not work with the track he posted. Harry

 

[no704]

I work for a large lock company (ASSA ABLOY), and suggest you not use a direct pull mag lock as illustrated above. If you are determined on using a mag lock, use a shear type mag lock where the armature has small (anti) shear pins

What part of Assa? I used to work at the Phx location.

 

[johnre]

What is the threshold?

Smooth concrete - and I don't want anything here raising up above the floor as I occasionally want to roll my tool cabinet out, which is quite heavy. The door guides are thus on the outside of the door opening and there's lots of overlap.

But going down into the concrete with a pin each side of the door at the bottom is a good idea. And that suggests a better alternative to this:

I've also considered some lockable pop-up mechanism on the ends of the bottom door guides, that could wedge the door between them.

The alternative is to drill through the bottom door guides and door simultaneously, and pin them. That way the door couldn't be lifted clear of the guides. It's a solid core interior MDF door so it's pretty dimensionally stable.

And that would need either a locking pin that expands on the inside when locked, or maybe something with a lockable head on the outside. I would guess something like this exists but I wouldn't know what they are called.

 

[KSJeff]

Smooth concrete - and I don't want anything here raising up above the floor here as I occasionally want to roll my tool cabinet out, which is quite heavy. The door guides are thus on the outside of the door opening and there's lots of overlap.

Maybe I'm missing something, but the only thing in the ground would be the hole for the pin to go down into to prevent lateral movement. The barrel latch would be on the door. My main worry would be the hole getting plugged up. But, if you sleeve it and it gets gunked up, I'd just drill it out. Can't think of anything that would get stuck in there that a drill wouldn't pull out.

 

[johnre]

Maybe I'm missing something, but the only thing in the ground would be the hole for the pin to go down into to prevent lateral movement. The barrel latch would be on the door.

You're correct - and your description "barrel latch" gave me enough hints that I was able to Google the image and also the correct phrasing for what you're describing.

It's called a "Revolving door & sliding door key-lockable door drop bolt". I may just go with this:



Regarding getting gunked up with debris, yes, I would sleeve the hole in the concrete, and I'd also overdrill it a bit so it isn't an interference fit at the bottom.

 

[KSJeff]

Drop bolt. Well, that makes sense. I'm glad your google is better than mine. Good luck.

 

[BurtEggley]

old thread being revived.