Sliding shed door options?

[kendogg]

I'm starting to do research on designing a storage shed, and I think I want a single sliding door. Estimate on width is probably going to be 6' wide, 8' tall. I'm probably going to be doing an 8x12 shed (because 96 square feet is the limit of how big I can go without needing a permit, drawings, etc.). Should I do dual sliding doors, or do you think just 1 will be fine? This will be JUST storage, for my lawn tractor, lawn tools, car parts, etc. What are my options for slider hardware?

 

[kbs2244]

One four foot door along one wall.
Not centered.
Then a single four foot door.
It will be less complex overall.

You should be able to get the hardware at a big box home improvment store.
For sure at one that is "farmy."

 

[kendogg]

One four foot door along one wall.
Not centered.
Then a single four foot door.
It will be less complex overall.

You should be able to get the hardware at a big box home improvment store.
For sure at one that is "farmy."

You think just a 4 foot door? Don't think that will be wide enough for my mower though.

 

[CNGsaves]

Sliding door(s) do NOT keep out critters. You will not like it. Plus, small sheds are not big enough to have place on building for the rail and sliding door to store when open. Otherwise, your rail will be hanging out in air, and when open the door is at great risk for wind damage.

Better solution is what every small shed builder does . . . Barn-Door style doors. Thus, 2 doors that flop out when opened. Latches can be used to secure the doors in open position.

Then, top-of-the-line sheds have metal roll-up door (ie small version of what the big buildings have).

Differences among the two options is MONEY . . . with the right amounts of money, you can get what-ever you want !

 

[Nowater]

Measure your mower! How well do you steer?

How about double 3' man doors on hinges? Might be easier to secure, IMO.

 

[kendogg]

Sliding door(s) do NOT keep out critters. You will not like it. Plus, small sheds are not big enough to have place on building for the rail and sliding door to store when open. Otherwise, your rail will be hanging out in air, and when open the door is at great risk for wind damage.

Better solution is what every small shed builder does . . . Barn-Door style doors. Thus, 2 doors that flop out when opened. Latches can be used to secure the doors in open position.

Then, top-of-the-line sheds have metal roll-up door (ie small version of what the big buildings have).

Differences among the two options is MONEY . . . with the right amounts of money, you can get what-ever you want !

Haha, I know. Why would the sliding rail have to be 'out in the open'? Why coudln't it be tucked under the eaves? And I'm not too concerned with keeping critters out, thats what chemicals are for My parents had a 2-car garage with 2 sliding doors, one went behind the other, and that worked great. I really think I'd like to stick witht he sliding door option. I can put a latch on the topa nd bottom to hold it in place, and a lock anywhere on the end.

 

[kendogg]

Measure your mower! How well do you steer?

How about double 3' man doors on hinges? Might be easier to secure, IMO.

Mower deck is slightly wider than the bed of my truck, so I'd say it's just over 50" wide.

 

[JMURiz]

Kendogg: if you find a sliding door option that can keep mice out, let me know how it's done. I am about to do some sheds for my parents and sliders would be awesome (tight space and long run of shed length).

 

[kendogg]

Kendogg: if you find a sliding door option that can keep mice out, let me know how it's done. I am about to do some sheds for my parents and sliders would be awesome (tight space and long run of shed length).

I don't see the big deal. Frame the shed door opening first, the sliding door should overlap on all sides. When it's closed, a latch on the top and bottom at the end wall should hold it securely in place. The rail, if well designed, shouldn't allow enough play to worry about. I can't fathom how barn doors would seal any tighter.


Can anybody help with the question in the OP though? I'm doing a sliding door. I'm just looking for some help locating quality sliding door hardware. Thanks!

 

[captaindiode]

Sliding door hardware:

http://www.cnbhnp.com

 

[Big Gus]

Box Rail - http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...re/12-sliding-door-track/p-1807613-c-5718.htm

Trolley Hangers - http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...-bearing-trolley-hangers/p-1807620-c-5718.htm

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...are/strap-trolley-hanger/p-1807621-c-5718.htm



I built a 12'x12' shed last year with a sliding door. The door track (box rail) is 12' long and runs the length of the shed. If I remember correctly, the door opening is 6' wide and the door itself is larger and overlaps the opening. When fully open, the door extends past the end of the shed but that isn't a big deal to me.

I actually like the door and believe it is far superior to swinging doors many have on lawn sheds. While true that the sliding door won't keep out pests like mice, this is not a concern to me. It's a shed, not a museum or a place I store priceless heirlooms or fine art.

 

[Jazz]

I actually like the door and believe it is far superior to swinging doors many have on lawn sheds. While true that the sliding door won't keep out pests like mice, this is not a concern to me. It's a shed, not a museum or a place I store priceless heirlooms or fine art.

^^^ This. +1

 

[kbs2244]

I said 4 feet for the door because that is half your width.
You can make a sliding door as wide as the whole gable end if you like.
I have seen it done on airplane hangers.
But the track then sticks out past the side wall.

 

[kendogg]

I said 4 feet for the door because that is half your width.
You can make a sliding door as wide as the whole gable end if you like.
I have seen it done on airplane hangers.
But the track then sticks out past the side wall.

No, the sliding door will be on the 12' wall. Therefore, 6' = half my width

 

[kendogg]

Sliding door hardware:

http://www.cnbhnp.com

Box Rail - http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...re/12-sliding-door-track/p-1807613-c-5718.htm

Trolley Hangers - http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...-bearing-trolley-hangers/p-1807620-c-5718.htm

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...are/strap-trolley-hanger/p-1807621-c-5718.htm



I built a 12'x12' shed last year with a sliding door. The door track (box rail) is 12' long and runs the length of the shed. If I remember correctly, the door opening is 6' wide and the door itself is larger and overlaps the opening. When fully open, the door extends past the end of the shed but that isn't a big deal to me.

I actually like the door and believe it is far superior to swinging doors many have on lawn sheds. While true that the sliding door won't keep out pests like mice, this is not a concern to me. It's a shed, not a museum or a place I store priceless heirlooms or fine art.

Thanks guys, thats exactly what I was looking for! Do you have a track on the bottom of yours as well, or are they fully supported by the top rail? I'd like to do a bottom track as well, if that makes sense. I assume it would keep the door from having the ability to flap around. Am I wrong?

 

[gungatim]

I've never seen a bottom track, not sure how that would work, it would have to be recessed so you could drive over it then it would fill with ice and dirt, probably not a good idea. I put a sliding door on my lean-to, the hardware is VERY expensive. You need the track, a pair of hangers (wheels hanging on a J bolt screwed to an L-bracket that you bolt to the door frame), and 2 latches. The latches go on either side and pull the door tight against the building to keep it from flapping around. You can also install a bolt into the cement apron with a roller bearing on it that guides the door when you open it, if that's what you mean by a bottom track. This would be past the opening. Many people also sink a concrete filled pipe on each side of the door opening and you can drop a tapere chunk of wood between it and the door to keep it shut if you don't buy the latches. You'll need to add a header to the long side of the building and lag bolt another 2x4 (treated) to that to mount the track to, then you'll need to cover the track with special siding or bend up some aluminum flashing to keep water out. Expect to pay $300 or so for everything to do one door. Conversely, a pair of site built doors can be done considerably cheaper...

 

[kendogg]

Haha, I know. Why would the sliding rail have to be 'out in the open'? Why coudln't it be tucked under the eaves? And I'm not too concerned with keeping critters out, thats what chemicals are for My parents had a 2-car garage with 2 sliding doors, one went behind the other, and that worked great. I really think I'd like to stick witht he sliding door option. I can put a latch on the topa nd bottom to hold it in place, and a lock anywhere on the end.

I've never seen a bottom track, not sure how that would work, it would have to be recessed so you could drive over it then it would fill with ice and dirt, probably not a good idea. I put a sliding door on my lean-to, the hardware is VERY expensive. You need the track, a pair of hangers (wheels hanging on a J bolt screwed to an L-bracket that you bolt to the door frame), and 2 latches. The latches go on either side and pull the door tight against the building to keep it from flapping around. You can also install a bolt into the cement apron with a roller bearing on it that guides the door when you open it, if that's what you mean by a bottom track. This would be past the opening. Many people also sink a concrete filled pipe on each side of the door opening and you can drop a tapere chunk of wood between it and the door to keep it shut if you don't buy the latches. You'll need to add a header to the long side of the building and lag bolt another 2x4 (treated) to that to mount the track to, then you'll need to cover the track with special siding or bend up some aluminum flashing to keep water out. Expect to pay $300 or so for everything to do one door. Conversely, a pair of site built doors can be done considerably cheaper...

We don't get enough ice to worry about in GA. But again, why do I have to worry about some flashing or something over it if it's going to be tucked up under the eaves? I can't see how it would be expensive. The box rail itself is about $60 from Tractor Supply (can probably find cheaper if I look around), the trolley's/hangers are only about $30-$40/pair, and I'm only going to need one pair. Another $20 or so for a roller on the bottom at the very least to keep it lined up then if there's no bottom rail, and mounting hardware. I can't see it costing anything more than $150, $200 tops. A pair of traditional doors isn't going to be that much less. I know y'all mean well, but I am sticking to the sliding door. Please help me with hardware options, instead of trying to force me into something else that I don't want. Thanks!

 

[Oldtymeflyr]

I use a side load double sliding doors on a 10 x 16 shed. Barn door rails are from a farm supply store, we don't use a bottom rail or bottom roller to keep the doors against the shed, they are heavy, probably close to 100# each.

They are tucked under a very narrow eave, no problem with rain or blowing snow.

It allows good access to everything, good light, even though there is electricity in the shed.

Works great, I would do it again.

Good luck.