"Slip" PVC Pipe

[wssix99]

Does anyone know how I can get a hold of PVC pipe, which will slide tightly over regular Schedule 40 sizes.

For example, I need a 4.5" pipe to slide over a normal 4" pipe.

I'm building an ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) house and want to imbed the slip pipe in the wall during the pour and secure it as a sleeve penetrating the wall. Later on, I would like to cement the final vent and other pipes to the sleeve for an airtight seal.

Electrical conduit suppliers have "Long line Sleeve Couplings," which will allow me to achieve this, but the longest I can find is 12" long. I can probably get them to work, but I'd really like to have some 13.5" long.

 

[BD1]

Can't you use a 4'' schedule 40 PVC pipe whatever length you need and leave it long on both ends to add a 4'' PVC coupling later ?

OR cut 4'' pipe with couplings on each end to fit in the form. Then just add 4'' pipe to go into the couplings.

 

[pstnbly]

I do the same thing almost. I cast a pipe with 2 couplings into the pour so I can just couple my pipe to it. Sometimes I need to shorten the hub ends a little that will be in the concrete for an 8" wall, no big deal. Then I make 2 plugs out of eps to block the ends to keep any concrete cream out.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

What are you sleeving? If you are passing a sewer drain through a foundation or footer, building codes require use of the next available size up. In other words, a 4" pvc drain pipe would require a sleeve cut from a 6" pvc pipe. Water lines and gas lines are usually sleeved with 1-1/2" or 2" pvc. This allows for some flexibility or settling. The common proceedure is to then seal around the smaller pipe when the construction is complete.

 

[plumbstupid]

What are you sleeving? If you are passing a sewer drain through a foundation or footer, building codes require use of the next available size up. In other words, a 4" pvc drain pipe would require a sleeve cut from a 6" pvc pipe. Water lines and gas lines are usually sleeved with 1-1/2" or 2" pvc. This allows for some flexibility or settling. The common proceedure is to then seal around the smaller pipe when the construction is complete.

This

Pumbing code requires the sleeve be a minimum of 1 and 1/2 times the pipe served.

 

[BD1]

This

Pumbing code requires the sleeve be a minimum of 1 and 1/2 times the pipe served.

that may hold true in your area. I've been on many jobs where the sewer pipe is poured in solid, I'm talkin 8''. No sleeve.
We have used sleeves when necessary and just used with ''LINK SEALS"

 

[Big Bad Dad]

that may hold true in your area. I've been on many jobs where the sewer pipe is poured in solid, I'm talkin 8''. No sleeve.
We have used sleeves when necessary and just used with ''LINK SEALS"

So Illinois does not go by the International Building Codes or the International Residential Codes? Just curious, what Code is used in your state?

 

[BD1]

So Illinois does not go by the International Building Codes or the International Residential Codes? Just curious, what Code is used in your state?

I don't know what code they go by. I'm just saying what I saw. Like I said, some jobs use sleeves and link seals others are poured in solid.

 

[Zengineer]

Regardless, sleeving is a better long term solution to account for building movement, thermal expansion/contraction, seismic activity, etc. Lots of houses around me built in the 60's and 70's didn't sleeve the copper feed lines coming into the house, and I've seen a lot of failures because of it.

Oversize the sleeve and fill the gap after...

 

[wssix99]

Thanks for all the comments! They have been extremely helpful.

Typically, we go under the foundations here with pipes but we may have to buck that convention and go through the foundation walls due to a random 69,000 V electrical vault buried a few feet from our foundation. This probably something we'd only see in the city. We were unaware of the code for these sleeves - thanks again! Our City Code actually stipulates that the sleeve be two sizes up from the penetrating pipe. :Z That's not going to be fun... but we'll see what we get when we start uncovering things and layout the foundation. I like the Link-Seal product but need to figure out if I can get one to fit a sleeve two sizes up.


I was originally thinking more about our above-ground penetrations. We have metal duct work and plumbing vents that we are going to run through the walls. We could run the actual pipe through the forms, but we'll be 40-50 feet up in the air and thought that it would be easiest if we could just slide the exterior pipe/fittings straight inside, vs. preparing a coupling at that height.

 

[Mr_fixit]

We use these Carlon expansion couplings on bridges where there's several inches of expansion per span. E945n they're somewhere in the 50- 60 dollar range each. They use something similar for electrical service coming out of the ground to a meter base.

http://www.carlonsales.com/productdrawings/E945N.pdf