slip roller?

[Handyfarmer]

I am working on a slip roller, (to roll sheet metal)

and most of the commercial sheet tin rollers are of the pinch roller type, the rollers are set up in a L shape, the first two pinch the material and the third bends it, (you adjust the top roller to material thickness and the second to radius wanted),

considering a pyramid type roller set up,
two bottom rollers stationary, and tied together, (by chain), and top roller is movable providing the radius and the pressure to move the sheet, same design as the video below,


I saw a video,

and the design is easier than the pinch roller design for me to make,

another video of the pyriamid design.

what is the problems with one design VS the other,

currently turning the rollers ends on the lath, using some shafting from scrap, that is 1.75 Diameter, and will be 24 wide, as that is what lengths of shafting I had,

this will be for occasional use, but want it to work well,

 

[MJD1]

On a pyramid roller, the 2 bottom rolls are driven, not the top. You may get more slippage with a pyramid since the rolls are directly putting pressure on the two driven wheels. On a pinch, the top and bottom rolls can be connected gear to hear, to be driven. I have seen some rollers with all wheels driven as well. My roller is a 36" pyramid with both bottom rolls driven. It works well for the little I use it. It takes more passes to roll something as opposed to a pinch roller, however a pyramid is easier to build.

 

[astroracer]

I've always used the L style rollers. Watching the videos I see no real difference in the way your pyramid style works from the L style. I know with the L you can roll a tube the same size of the OD of the top roller. I would have to use the pyramid style to see if it could do the same thing without pinching the sheet to hard... Just speculation on my part...
I say post up the build and keep us in the loop. Cool project.
Mark

 

[pepi]

I use the L shape, the only difference between the two I see is in the pinch. The concept for rolling is the same. Building it yourself, I'd consider making guides seen here. Helps to see things are rolling along and aligned..

 

[kkroger]

Plate Rolls are generally Designed just like a big heavy Pinch Roll or Slip Roll, probably a reason, some have more rollers, Tube and Profile rollers are generally of the 3 roll Pyramidal design. Probably a good reason for that too, Sheet and plate have the "Pinch" so that it can grip the plate or sheet, while the idler roll provides the directional force for the roll then to get the last few inches that didn't roll just run it through the roll backwards, the Pyramidal rolls will always have an area that doesn't get bend or curved the distance between the bottom roll and the top roll horizontally. These have the pressure applied to the TOP roll only and it just doesn't work well on Thinner material. due to the low pressure available to move the material...

 

[skrap metal]

very useful tool

 

[Handyfarmer]

This is what I ended up with,

the problem I see is the top roller is the roller that forces the curve, the problem I see, it to lift the roller to put the sheet in the roller, may make some little L shaped to ride on the roller, so I can lift it, and on very light and not that wide, the weight of the roller could put more force on it than desired,
this will work for my needs, at least for the project I am wanting to do,

I used scrap or left over parts, I had on hand, the shafts are 1.75" across and 24.25 inches long in the roller,

 

[pepi]

Looks like that will work just fine. I now see the difference in the L and pyramid designs.

The L the top and bottom rollers drive and adjust for the metal thickness. The pinch adjust the arc .... interesting..

Nice job

Greg

 

[Handyfarmer]

I wanted to thank ever one who commented and gave advice on this thread,

 

[Handyfarmer]

made a few improvements on the roller, the handles, and a system to lift the top roller,

 

[Ign]

The only thing I know to look for in any slip roll is to make sure the top roller can hinge open so you can slide an incomplete radius out the side. Anything else is a major PITA

 

[Handyfarmer]

the top roller comes off or tips up,
one can loosen two bolts and take out/off (one side) the top piece on the end plates, and then tip up or pull the top roller out,

If wanted I could put a small cross rod on the bolts so I could do it with out tools, or find some thumb screw bolts, for that bolt,

Now it is not as convent as some commercial units, but the cost to me was scrap shafts our of an old piece of farm equipment, and some drops of some flat and a used piece of channel iron, besides a few bolts, and some excess, shaft collars, (that I had on hand), the lever nuts from a old truck box sides, a commercial one in the $400+ range, the inconvenience if a few bolts for a few turned cylinders, of tin, I think I will be able to live with.

some time IF I can find some 3" larger shafting, I would like to make one that could do 16 or more gauge up to 50+ inches long, and then finding or ordering a set of gears would be worth it, and make a pinch roller type.

IMO, but this will be more than suitable for the project I have coming up.

 

[RD350]

Handyfarmer - Excellent work. Can you sell me one please?