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Slipping keyless chuck

rust in the eye

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My woefully abused yet ever faithful Makita cordless drill has finally demanded attention.
The keyless chuck slips no matter how much I tighten it.
I'm not wanting to spend ~$50 for a new Makita chuck when the entire tool can be had for not too much more.
Has anyone a solution for the slipping or a recommendation on a less expensive replacement? The usual Chinesium ones from Senor Bezos don't inspire confidence.
Chuck is 1/2" cap with 1/2-20 thread mount.
Thanks
 
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RTM

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If things get bad, I have a 14.4V drill that has a trashed gearbox, I think that one has a functioning chuck. Forget if I have 2 or 3 9.6v, but all are currently working
 

cannuck

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the keyless chucks from Makita don't work with a damn (and Milwaukee ones no better). A decent chuck is half a grand, but for good compromise go Jacobs.
 

Rabid Badger

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First, make sure you can get the old chuck off before you buy a new one.

Are the jaws on your current chuck worn? If not, it might be revived with a thorough cleaning.
 

redmondjp

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Some drill chucks have a LH-thread retaining screw hidden in their throat as well. Assuming you can get that out, then take a hex bit socket and chuck up the hex bit end (as big of a hex bit as you can get into the chuck and tighten down on it), then use an impact tool to spin the chuck loose. Alternately, chuck up the short leg of an L-shaped hex key, and then bang away on the long side to break the chuck loose from the threaded shaft.
 
OP
R

rust in the eye

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First, make sure you can get the old chuck off before you buy a new one.

Are the jaws on your current chuck worn? If not, it might be revived with a thorough cleaning.
They look smooth. It's not dirty and I've removed the old one already.
Found a Jacobs chuck @ Cripe for a bargain price so will be doing that. Once I finish shopping for something I don't need.
Is it just me or is Cripe's website a nightmare to navigate??
 

Rabid Badger

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They look smooth. It's not dirty and I've removed the old one already.
Found a Jacobs chuck @ Cripe for a bargain price so will be doing that. Once I finish shopping for something I don't need.
Is it just me or is Cripe's website a nightmare to navigate??
It isn't just you. 🙂
 
OP
R

rust in the eye

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Did you try reversing the tightening sleeve slightly after tightening ?

Yes, just now. I put the old chuck back on just to try this. No explanation for why to do this and it seems about as counterintuitive as can be but desperate times...

Didn't seem to make any difference in my case but thanks for my lesson for the day.
I'm interested to know the reason backing off on the chuck is recommended.
A new Jacobs chuck ought to be here tomorrow.
 

neophyte

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Yes, just now. I put the old chuck back on just to try this. No explanation for why to do this and it seems about as counterintuitive as can be but desperate times...

Didn't seem to make any difference in my case but thanks for my lesson for the day.
I'm interested to know the reason backing off on the chuck is recommended.
A new Jacobs chuck ought to be here tomorrow.
I believe there is a ratcheting system in the chuck body, and the backing off a click locks the chuck jaws were they are tightened to.
Older keyless chucks made by Yukiwa didn’t have the feature, and didn’t work as well, but the later Yukiwa all steel keyless chucks used by Milwaukee used the feature, and tended to work well.
 

dnschmidt

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THE FINAL SOLUTION: Rohm. There **** just works. The best keyless chucks on the planet.
 
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neophyte

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the keyless chucks from Makita don't work with a damn (and Milwaukee ones no better). A decent chuck is half a grand, but for good compromise go Jacobs.
You can get a good solid keyless chuck for a handheld drill for $100-$200 , and sometimes you can find these chuck models for $50-$70.
Rohm Supra SK and Metabo Fututo Top chuck models are both ratcheting chucks, milled from a large chunk of steel like the higher end keyless chucks used on stationary equipment by machinists, but with smaller diameters for the chuck body, so standard 43mm diameter collar clamps used on drill press adapters and holders can still be slipped over the chuck body.

Rohm Extra RV all metal chucks are a lighter weight ratcheting type chuck that is one of the major chuck models used for handheld corded and corded drills.
These chucks use less steel, with more parts that are formed from sheet metal, and these chucks do not guarantee as much concentricity.
The Metabo Futuro Plus is the Metabo version of the Rohm Extra RV, and both chucks are almost identical so may both be manufactured by one company or the other.
Yukiwa Seiko of Japan manufactures a similarly operating ratcheting keyless chuck, that was, (and may be?), still used on Milwaukee drills, or at least they were was when the Milwaukee drills were made in the USA.
The Yukiwa chucks seem to have a sturdier exterior steel shell to the lighter weight German chucks, although I don’t know whether it actually makes a difference as far as normal durability goes.
Beware Yukiwa Keyless chicks though, because there were older versions that looked almost identical, but which lacked the ratcheting feature and those chucks don’t lock as well.

LFA of France manufactures dome competing keyless drill chucks, and Dewalt used those at one point.

I have no clue what the current Jacobs chucks are like.
Most smaller keyless jacobs chucks had plastic outer sleeves, and in my experience those get chewed up too easily in use.

If you have trouble with chucks gripping the drill bit shank, you might also look into keyless chicks with carbide inserts braised into the chuck jaws.
These are commonly found on drills with a hammer function for better grip.
Weirdly, the Metabo Futuro Top and Rohm Supra SK chucks don’t use carbide jaws, but are used on the keyless chuck adapters Hilti sells for their Rotary hammers.
 

engineer2

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Give the insides of the chuck a few shots of WD-40. I have had them work better after a little lube.
 
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larry_g

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Be careful with championing any brand of chuck. I have both Jacobs and Rhom chucks that are top tier and bottom of the barrel. These companies make chucks in a wide variation of qualities.

lg
no neat sig line
 
OP
R

rust in the eye

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I have used valve grinding compound on a piece of drill-rod. I chucked the drill-rod in a vice and while running the drill, I slowly tightened the chuck on the drill-rod. There was a big improvement.
This is the sort of idea I was looking for. I tried same using a file intended for sharpening chain saw teeth. Didn't notice any improvement, the chuck is maybe harder material.
All something of a moot point now that the drill is wearing a fresh Jacobs chuck. Depending on how well the Jacobs grips I may give it a shot. Valve grinding paste never occurred to me.
For all the guys suggesting expensive chucks bear in mind this is for a tool that may be replaced for ~$100.
Thanks to those offering parts.
 

ColorMeOrange

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My primary 3/8" keyless DeWalt is holding great after at least five years of use. I get the occasional slip squeal if the bit grabs a larger burr. But it's sporatic and only happens milling something like 1/2" - 2" thick aluminum billet or heavy plate steel with conventional drill bits. When using a brass stepped cone bit it hasn't slip squealed on me before.

I can be easier on the small guy now and focus it on small tasks. I moved up to DeWalts key chuck 1/2" hammer drill. Its a nice one to have around too. The 1/2" has not slipped yet, and has power to spare for me personally. I would buy another one in a heartbeat. Either or.
 
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ColorMeOrange

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ColOUr me envious of south side tool shopping. I try to make it down through New York a couple of times a year but its been drawing a fine line.

Aside from currency I like the selections at single stop shops. That is the primary reason I plan trips.

Even the American Walmarts stocks cooler items then our Canadian counterparts. Its one of those times when I must throw up the unfair flag again (to no avail) ;).

Its the constant price hikes most of all over here. That get me good by the short and curlys.
 
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cbhvmi58

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Mar 16, 2024
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3
My woefully abused yet ever faithful Makita cordless drill has finally demanded attention.
The keyless chuck slips no matter how much I tighten it.
I'm not wanting to spend ~$50 for a new Makita chuck when the entire tool can be had for not too much more.
Has anyone a solution for the slipping or a recommendation on a less expensive replacement? The usual Chinesium ones from Senor Bezos don't inspire confidence.
Chuck is 1/2" cap with 1/2-20 thread mount.
Thanks
 

cbhvmi58

New member
Joined
Mar 16, 2024
Messages
3
I replaced the chuck with a Yakamoz 1/2” keyed chuck. You will probably need a 1/2”-20 male to a 3/8”-24 female adapter. They are available from Midwest Controls. If you can find the adapter locally it will save $10 in postage. The Yakamoz chuck is $12 on Amazon and postage free if you have Amazon Prime.
Good luck
CBH
 

cbhvmi58

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Mar 16, 2024
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3
Oops I missed the output shaft size. You will not need an adapter if the drive shaft thread is 1/2-20 that is the size of the Yakamoz chuck (it is a right hand thread. I found that Goof Off will help remove the thread locker.
C
 
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