Small bearing puller needed

[Grant Gunderson]

I'm surprised you picked any of those pullers, because none of them appear to be small enough to get in to get the recessed bearing out.

Those are the smallest that I could find. I fully expect to need to mill something close down to fit. I have a micro gear puller from my old camera repair days but it’s too small. I need something in between. Seems to be in the grey area. These are 608 bearings.

 

[Two Door]

I wonder if an autobody weld stud like this would withstand the force needed.

 

[whateg01]

I know you are looking to buy something but it seems you have some machinery. It wouldn't be hard to make a set of custom arms and have them hardened.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I know you are looking to buy something but it seems you have some machinery. It wouldn't be hard to make a set of custom arms and have them hardened.

If my lath was currently wired up and coverrted from 3 phase to 220 I’d make an external collet puller. However wiring the lath is on hold as I’m looking to move into a commercial spot with 3 phase. On top of that I got 10+ of these backed up that need to get done.

 

[signcrafter]

Just an FYI I've snapped the tip off on one of the lisle wiper arm pullers before on a really stuck wiper. So I wouldn't try to bend them, unless heating it up first would keep it from snapping.

How tight of a fit do you think that bearing is? Going to need a lot of force to get it off or think it will come pretty easy? Couple ideas, first one is cut a slot on each side of the outer bearing for the arms. Then the puller doesn't need to go to bottom of bearing if you can get the puller tips in the slots you cut. Next try would be two self taping screws or drill and use different screws into the bearing somehow and then some how set up an H frame type puller. Screws would have washer put on before screwing into bearing and H frame would be in place when screwing. Then use forcing screw. Or even weld some bolts onto bearing. Or cut outer race off bearing with dremel or similar. Then there should be some sort of lip on the inner race you can pull off with a puller. You aren't trying to save these bearings are you?

On the one with plastic teeth, the actual gear the bearing is next to is metal correct? If so and just the teeth are plastic can you use an inducting heater to heat the bearing up? They will heat the bearing up quickly and not spread the heat to the gear and out to the plastic teeth.

 

[noid]

With 0.85mm to work with, you're best bet is going to be liquid nitrogen or freeze spray right on the shaft.

 

[RTM]

faucet puller

Did he not even make it out of the bag to test?

Or was he too far in the bag to perform?

 

[humber2]

This set is better for the application.

Look up Sykes-Pickavant 098000 multipull

Has adaptors for 5.5,6&8mm bearing races.

 

[pcrov]

I found Waldo.

Forza 1700-1

 

[mike93lx]

Maybe draw up your own arms with the geometry needed then order them laser cut from a place like send cut send?

 

[Davefr]

.085mm or .040” according to my feeler gauges. So very thin.

Have you consider using Jacobs chuck wedges for this side of the assembly?

 

[KnurledNut]

How about just squeezing and cracking the outer race like he does here at 3:20:

 

[dscheidt]

Have you consider using Jacobs chuck wedges for this side of the assembly?

I was going to suggest wedges, too, but the gear is plastic, and I'm not sure it can provide the required reaction force without breaking.....

 

[alfadan]

I wonder if an autobody weld stud like this would withstand the force needed.

Or along this line, weld a couple bolts to the outer race and pull on em.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

if it were me I'd nick the outer race with a torch, snap it in half to get it off, do the same for the bearing cage inside, then use a bearing splitter on the inner race.

Judiciously careful use of the blue tip bearing remover seems to be in order here

 

[whateg01]

How would wedges fit in the space around the bearing that's recessed?

 

[Davefr]

How would wedges fit in the space around the bearing that's recessed?

With the non recessed bearing removed maybe the shaft w/recessed bearing could be pressed out of the gear assembly.

Regardless of how he proceeds, I'd use temperature differential to the maximum extend possible. (ie Let physics do part of the work).

 

[whateg01]

With the non recessed bearing removed maybe the shaft w/recessed bearing could be pressed out of the gear assembly.

Regardless of how he proceeds, I'd use temperature differential to the maximum extend possible. (ie Let physics do part of the work).

Regardless of how he process, physics WILL do ALL of the work.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

This set is better for the application.

Look up Sykes-Pickavant 098000 multipull

Has adaptors for 5.5,6&8mm bearing races.

Those only fit 6000 series. This is a 600 series bearing. Lots of options in the 6000 series but seems like none for the smaller 600’s

I found Waldo.

Forza 1700-1

That is what I need. Only problem is from what I can find no sellers are willing to ship it to the US. Which is a bummer as I’d buy it. I emailed the company to see if they have a distributor in NA or would sell direct to me.

Have you consider using Jacobs chuck wedges for this side of the assembly?

i did try those!

The #6 series of wedges are too thick. Plus won’t worn on the plastic gear version.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Did he not even make it out of the bag to test?

Or was he too far in the bag to perform?

Nope. Could tell immediately it wasn’t a contender so it’s going back.

 

[drs3317]

I don't know if it has been suggested. I had the same issue some time back. I use my dremel with a cutoff wheel and ground a ground away enough of the bearing to get my puller jaw under. On another that was not as tight a fit I ground a groove in the bearing to accept the puller jaw. Good luck!

 

[Davefr]

At his point I'd grab a Dremel and some heavy duty cutoff wheels and grind slots in the outer races of those bearings big enough for one of your small pullers in #35 to reach into. I bet it could be done in about an hour at minimal cost and not harm the rest of the assembly. I bet you could even get a slot in the upper part of the recessed bearings race.

 

[whateg01]

I don't know if it has been suggested. I had the same issue some time back. I use my dremel with a cutoff wheel and ground a ground away enough of the bearing to get my puller jaw under. On another that was not as tight a fit I ground a groove in the bearing to accept the puller jaw. Good luck!

That's a lot of effort for something that has to be done repeatedly. Once or twice, sure, but not as a routine.

 

[whateg01]

At his point I'd grab a Dremel and some heavy duty cutoff wheels and grind slots in the outer races of those bearings big enough for one of your small pullers in #35 to reach into. I bet it could be done in about an hour at minimal cost and not harm the rest of the assembly. I bet you could even get a slot in the upper part of the recessed bearings race.

If op is doing this for profit, that's a lot of money/time down the drain.

 

[Davefr]

If op is doing this for profit, that's a lot of money/time down the drain.

Money/Time?? A few $'s for a pack of cutoff wheels vs. these oddball specialized gear pullers for $100's that need to be specially ordered/imported for a one time use??

An hour or so and it would be done. Those Dremels w/cutoff wheels will grind there way thru anything if you're patient.

The OP is running out of options.

 

[dscheidt]

Money/Time?? A few $'s for a pack of cutoff wheels vs. these oddball specialized gear pullers for $100's that need to be specially ordered/imported for a one time use??

An hour or so and it would be done. Those Dremels w/cutoff wheels will grind there way thru anything if you're patient.

The OP is running out of options.

An hour per part. if you're doing lots, a puller that does it in five minutes is very quickly a big win, even if it costs a bunch, or has to be made.

 

[Cruzan80]

Money/Time?? A few $'s for a pack of cutoff wheels vs. these oddball specialized gear pullers for $100's that need to be specially ordered/imported for a one time use??

Goal is to replace the bearings, but I’ll have a lot of these to do, so efficiency is important.

On top of that I got 10+ of these backed up that need to get done.

Doesn't sound like a one-time use to me...

 

[Davefr]

Doesn't sound like a one-time use to me...

Thanks, I missed the part where he had lots of them to do.

 

[Steve_P]

Plenty of stuff is designed with no intention to be disassembled; both of these fit this description. I know you don't want to use heat, and maybe you don't have a welder, but if you weld two bolts or studs to the bearing this isn't going to affect the plastic gear- you can cover it to protect it from spatter, and it'll never see any appreciable heat from welding the studs on the bearing unless you go insane with half inch fillets. And then use a real puller on the bolts.

With such limited space there's going to have to be almost no press fit in order to remove these with a set of custom puller arms. Basically, if you can't hammer two screwdrivers under the "easy" one to remove it, it may just break your custom tool.

I checked all of my bearing splitters with the edge of a steel ruler, and they're all "flat" on the back: HF, ancient SK, OTC...

 

[paulsomlo]

This is an OTC 949-1/2; the edges taper out to very thin and the back is flat, I would be surprised if it didn't work. As far as the bearing that's recessed, maybe dry ice on the other end of the shaft and a miracle?

 

[mike93lx]

That is what I need. Only problem is from what I can find no sellers are willing to ship it to the US. Which is a bummer as I’d buy it. I emailed the company to see if they have a distributor in NA or would sell direct to me

This company says they ship internationally to all countries

Bearing Puller 608-6001 Ref. Forza 1700-1

FORZA 1700-1. Bearing puller. Bearing pullers reduce the risk of damaging components and causing personal injury. There is a wide range of extractors for bearings for different types of extraction: external, internal and even blind.Manual tool to remove gears, bearings or pulleys when they do...

rodavigo.net

 

[ChevyEFI]

Part of me wants to grab OPs arm and direct his hand to a grinding tool since I feel like it could be done by now instead of the excess tool ordering to work ratio.

But it also is the kind of thing that makes you think. And I think a couple 90-bent arms bent of < 3mm material could be ground to act as rounded wedges on the short side, have a block in between the long sides, and be pressed by an arbor or hydro press and be done with lots of removals in short time. Not going to MS Paint that 'cause I am on my phone, but get 'er done, man.

 

[ericm]

I think the problem with modifying the pullers you bought is that once the arms can get under the bearing, that part is now too small to grab the bearing. Maybe you could add a hose clamp or some other clamp around the arms to get them to grip? Maybe good enough to do a few anyhow.

It seems like the real solution is going to be a collet of some sort.

 

[ChevyEFI]

Another quick and dirty try:
A wrong-size bearing splitter with puller bolt holes at 12:00 and 06:00. Two allthread or bolts that thread in. Grind those bolts so they a: act as wedges under the outer race and b: clear the race while the larger bearing splitter is closed together.

The thing about bearing splitters is they sometimes have tondo the small work so you can finish off the large work.

 

[pcrov]

Maybe you could add a hose clamp or some other clamp around the arms to get them to grip?

That's my typical pulling setup.



C-clamp makes the dream work.

 

[starlight_tools]

Look at 61-40-1110 in the picture. It is like a bearing knife, but the knives are lower than the plate. Not a cheap piece but it cups under recessed 608 bearings and allows them to be pressed off. Note pressed with a press, not pulled. The lip is on the fragile side, I have already snapped one off in my years of using them and had to order a replacement set.

I am sure that you could make one with access to a lathe and make the cup portion deeper if required. My guess is 4140 or similar with a harden then temper. Might even get away with T1 ASTM A514 plate without hardening.

 

[mreisner]

Parts are available individual to make up a small puller if need be instead of buying a whole set. Perhaps the small ones would work?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I got busy and haven’t updated the thread so I’m just now responding

I found Waldo.

Forza 1700-1

I ended up ordering this set. It’s ridiculous expensive and is on the slow boat from what I’m hoping is Europe and not China for the price. I’ll update once I actually have it in my hands.

This is an OTC 949-1/2; the edges taper out to very thin and the back is flat, I would be surprised if it didn't work. As far as the bearing that's recessed, maybe dry ice on the other end of the shaft and a miracle?

My el cheapo splitter was far from flat on the back side. So tossed it in the mill.

Ended up taking .1120 off of it. It’s flat now and works much better. Guess the cheap tool is now the quality of expensive one and actually works like it should now.

At some point I’d like to pick one of these up if I can ever find a reasonable price on one. Way better design.

I think the problem with modifying the pullers you bought is that once the arms can get under the bearing, that part is now too small to grab the bearing. Maybe you could add a hose clamp or some other clamp around the arms to get them to grip? Maybe good enough to do a few anyhow.

It seems like the real solution is going to be a collet of some sort.

I like the hose clamp idea. Will try that on the next batch. Hopefully the puller above arrives soon.


I machined a jaw puller down to work.

The pot metal that puller was evidently made of was soft as butter to machine. We will see how many uses I get out of it.
But it’s working. Just down have high confidence in it lasting. Bunch of crud under that bearing too.

Look at 61-40-1110 in the picture. It is like a bearing knife, but the knives are lower than the plate. Not a cheap piece but it cups under recessed 608 bearings and allows them to be pressed off. Note pressed with a press, not pulled. The lip is on the fragile side, I have already snapped one off in my years of using them and had to order a replacement set.

I am sure that you could make one with access to a lathe and make the cup portion deeper if required. My guess is 4140 or similar with a harden then temper. Might even get away with T1 ASTM A514 plate without hardening.

What manual / catalog are those tools out of? If my lathe was powered up I’d make one and add two bolts to pill it together however it’s not getting wired up till I get into my new shop with 3PH and that buildings not going to ready till January at least.

Parts are available individual to make up a small puller if need be instead of buying a whole set. Perhaps the small ones would work?

That set you posted looks like all of the parts are way too big.

So the search continues. Hopefully the puller I ordered works. But given the volume I have to do, it would be a good idea to have multiple options.

 

[starlight_tools]

"What manual / catalog are those tools out of? If my lathe was powered up I’d make one and add two bolts to pill it together however it’s not getting wired up till I get into my new shop with 3PH and that buildings not going to ready till January at least."

Grant

As a factory Service Centre for most brands of tools, we have access to many specialty tools that are designed and made to make fixing their tools easier. This plate set is from one of those, so not something that is commercially available.

Personally, I prefer to press bearings off, rather than pull them off, although we have an extensive selection of pullers and press fixtures.

This is the bearing splitter that I use regularly, similar to the Kukko you have shown.

https://otctools.com/products/5-ton-single-pressure-beam-bearing-splitter-set

The beam part of the puller sits in the box, just use the knives

 

[starlight_tools]

Here is the spec sheet on these plates List price is now around $455, used to be able to get them for $41.90