small benchtop jointer recommendations?

[BTL-A4]

I'm looking for a bench top jointer. I want one that does not have the motor mounted outside the body. In other words, I want one that is all one unit, with the motor enclosed. I do not want one that has to go on a stand, with the motor below and a belt connecting them. I don't have room. This is going to be stored on a shelf in a workbench cupboard and hauled out when needed.

I'm looking on CL for an older one. I've found a few, but don't know how to tell if they are decent models or junk, since I'm looking at newer ones that fit my needs. Was there a time period that they were made decently? Is there a brand that is good? There are a few older Craftsman ones that seem decent. I'm thinking I should be looking for a cast iron body? Those seem to be the older models with the motor/belt/pully on the outside like I don't want, though.

I saw these on the Lowe's website:

They look identical, except for colors, but the C-Man has awful reviews and the Wen doesn't. The Wen is a spiral cutter and the Craftsman is two knives, so maybe that has something to do with the differing reviews.

Thanks!

 

[Ricky Joe]

I have a J. D. Wallace with a direct drive motor that might be what you want. It is from 1914 or 1915.

 

[TailGunner3000]

The Wen and the Craftsman are absolute lightweight junk. I had a Grizzly benchtop unit that I used successfully for years. I later sold it when I upgraded to a freestanding Jet model. I would suggest looking for a used heavier duty model or, if your budget allows, a better new model.

 

[mike93lx]

What are you looking to do with it? Those little jointers are really not all that capable with their narrow cutters, small beds and tiny motors

If you have long stock, a track saw would give you a nice flat edge and be more versatile.

 

[tyyost]

What are you looking to do with it? Those little jointers are really not all that capable with their narrow cutters, small beds and tiny motors

If you have long stock, a track saw would give you a nice flat edge and be more versatile.

When I saw this thread title I clicked in here to ask the same question. Friends don’t let friends buy bad tools kinda of thing. Jointers are very good a single job. Flattening the items you put through it. Bench tops rarely do well with face flattening, especially on hard woods, but can clean up edges pretty well. On shorter boards it’s a snap, the longer the board the more operator finesse comes into play, between short infeed and outfeed tables and a small fence it takes skill to get good results on stock more than a few feet long.

Not knowing your application makes it hard to recommend a tool. Usually, folks who become serious about woodworking increase jointer size as they graduate, making the used market fair game for the 6” size. If you are looking to do some jointing, I suggest looking at older machines, in the 4”-6” range with real motors rather than the brushed ones the bench tops use.

If you only have stock that you need a good edge on, and don’t need to flatten faces of lumber a track saw or saw on a sled can often get you where you need to be to get things ready to rip on a tablesaw.

 

[BTL-A4]

I have about 30 short (about 40" long) pieces of 2x4 lumber I need to get a good edge and face on so I can finish them in the table saw and planer. The general rule I've heard is the jointer can handle stock about twice the length of the bed. My neighbor has a bigger one I can use for wider pieces, but I don't want to ask him too much.

As mentioned above, I do not have enough room for a bigger one. I had an 8" jointer and didn't use it nearly enough to justify the space it occupied. I can put a bench-top one in a cupboard when not in use. Even on wheels, a larger machine would just be in the way, and my lovely wife is annoyed enough as it is with all my stuff in her garage.

I have a Kreg Accu-cut circular saw track I can use for sheet goods. I can also just buy wider S4S wood when I need it.

Hope all this helps clarify what I need. Thanks!

 

[mike93lx]

There are ways to do this without buying a tool that almost certainly is not very good.

I'd do this on the table saw before buying a little jointer like that

 

[tarmy]

I got this one I’ll make you a good deal on…I am in NorCal…

I just don’t do much wood work…and it has been sitting for years.

 

[BTL-A4]

There are ways to do this without buying a tool that almost certainly is not very good.

I'd do this on the table saw before buying a little jointer like that

Thanks. This works great for edges, but what about the faces? I suppose I could put the saw blade up high enough and use a wide board on edge to make a higher fence. This would really only work well for board that are narrower.

 

[ike]

i have one of these

6 inch Spiral Cutterhead Benchtop Jointer (Cast Iron Tables) - CUTECH 40160HI

The favorite 6" Cutech jointer now available with cast iron tables. The small but powerful benchtop tool to handle any small project. The 6" spiral cutterhead achieves a fine finish whether you are working with soft pine or hard maple. This model shares the same large table adjustment dial and...

cutech.tools

i've only used it a few times for a specific project i had. i can't say that i thought it worked amazingly well or anything, but it did work. when i was looking for one to buy, it had good reviews and i figured it was probably better than the porter cable/craftsman.

 

[mike93lx]

Thanks. This works great for edges, but what about the faces? I suppose I could put the saw blade up high enough and use a wide board on edge to make a higher fence. This would really only work well for board that are narrower.

Do you have a planer?

 

[dscheidt]

Thanks. This works great for edges, but what about the faces? I suppose I could put the saw blade up high enough and use a wide board on edge to make a higher fence. This would really only work well for board that are narrower.

You can build a sled for your planer.

 

[lardy1]

I just use a straight piece of laminated particle board with two toggle clamps to hold my material and run the edge of the pb against the fence. I wouldn't expect a glass finish on the cut but it's straight. I glue up panels without jointing edges. Todays table saw blades are pretty amazing, in that regard, if you're willing to pony up the cash.

 

[Firebrick43]

Thanks. This works great for edges, but what about the faces? I suppose I could put the saw blade up high enough and use a wide board on edge to make a higher fence. This would really only work well for board that are narrower.

As dsheitdt said, build a sled for the planer. Or learn to use a hand plane before sending through the planer. Doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to take the major bow/twist out. And its quiet. My grandfather had one of the small benchtop jointers, in my opinion the are worse than no jointer at all. I now have an 8" Powermatic but I only use it to help with rough lumber. Edges are all jointed in book match technique with a hand jointer plane.

 

[Maui]

I have an older Toolkraft model 660 4” jointer that sounds exactly like what you are looking for. It’s cast iron and very heavy for its size. It has an integral 3/4 hp motor, and spins at an impressive speed. It should do the trick. Keep your eyes open for one of these.

 

[tyyost]

I’d seriously consider asking the neighbor to use his machine, knock out your 40 chunks of 2x4 and see if the need comes up before I’d pony up for a new bench top Jointer. Give the guy $25 towards his next set of blades/sharpening. You can then search for something a little better for your needs, or wait for the next time you need a jointer to buy.

If you sent an 8” machine down the road, I doubt you would find a bench top machine adequate for what you want it for. Looking at was out there they all look the same to me, so likely they come from the same design and probably just a few factories in China. When prices range from $300 up it seems like low value for the dollar.

 

[Voi]

40" lengths are super easy to do with a planer & a sled.

A lot of YouTube videos on the subject but the popular ones are all pretty complex. This can be as easy as a piece of melamine, plywood or MDF, a rear cleat/fence & some wood shims held in place with brads and/or hot glue.

You can edge joint with a planer too but it takes a slightly more advanced sled. I've never edge jointed with a planer but have with a table saw, track saw & router. Lots of ways to do this.

But start with your planer & a sled for the face jointing.

By the way, you can also face joint with a router & a simple jig.

 

[HenryAZ]

Jointers are very good a single job. Flattening the items you put through it.

Also, depending on the machine, beveling and rabbeting.

 

[mike93lx]

Also, depending on the machine, beveling and rabbeting.

Handheld jointers, sure, but a bed jointer? I've never seen one used for those purposes.

 

[metlmunchr]

Handheld jointers, sure, but a bed jointer? I've never seen one used for those purposes.

Look at the powermatic tarmy posted. The portion of the table where the guard mounts moves up and down as a part of the infeed table. You remove the guard and that exposes the rabbeting ledge. The fence angle is adjustable for beveling. I'd say 99% of bed type jointers have both these capabilities.

For the OP, I'd 2nd the suggestion of running the first face on a planer sled. Several videos on YouTube showing how to use a sled and shims, and it's a very simple setup and procedure.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I think for what the op is looking to do a bench top will be fine, I had a delta bench top I used as a portable for on site work & it was great for small stuff. Sharp blades, a square fence & the right feed rate you'll be fine.

 

[PoorUB]

Take a look at grizzlytools.com they make decent tools, at least for imports, and they darned near all are today.

 

[tyyost]

Also, depending on the machine, beveling and rabbeting.

I’ve always found bevels on the jointer to be similar to ripping on a radial arm saw. While it fits the tool‘s capabilities, the finesse needed to do it well is another story. Short fences and the work tilting has always made bevels over 15 degrees a table saw job for me.

The rabbeting ledge is a good trick and great for wide rabbets beyond a typical dado blade size. No better way to get a 2 1/2” wide rabbet than the jointer.

 

[BTL-A4]

I did what was shown in the video posted my @mike93lx (thanks!) in post #7. I got a 1x6 and some aluminum C-channel to keep it stiff and made a longer auxiliary fence for my TS. I was able to get one edge relatively flat, then press that face on the table saw while making sure there were two points of contact on the fence. I took multiple, light cuts to get the face flat. I then was able to plane the pieces to thickness.

 

[BTL-A4]

I have an older Toolkraft model 660 4” jointer that sounds exactly like what you are looking for. It’s cast iron and very heavy for its size. It has an integral 3/4 hp motor, and spins at an impressive speed. It should do the trick. Keep your eyes open for one of these.

I had one of these. The motor mounts broke, so I fabricated new ones. The switch would turn off while using it, due to vibration. The table was a real PITA to get set up. The bolts for leveling it are under the table and not easily accessible. I had to take it apart to get it level, since it was making rounded pieces.

You are right, though; it worked well enough once I fixed everything. I made a small, butcher-block table with it. The pieces were only about 18" or so long. I got rid of it because it was such a PITA and parts are NLA. I thought I could do better.

 

[BTL-A4]

As dsheitdt said, build a sled for the planer. Or learn to use a hand plane before sending through the planer. Doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to take the major bow/twist out. And its quiet. My grandfather had one of the small benchtop jointers, in my opinion the are worse than no jointer at all. I now have an 8" Powermatic but I only use it to help with rough lumber. Edges are all jointed in book match technique with a hand jointer plane.

The twist and bow on some of the pieces was so bad, I didn't use them. I had lots of extra anyway. Using a hand planer is an art!

 

[mike93lx]

I did what was shown in the video posted my @mike93lx (thanks!) in post #7. I got a 1x6 and some aluminum C-channel to keep it stiff and made a longer auxiliary fence for my TS. I was able to get one edge relatively flat, then press that face on the table saw while making sure there were two points of contact on the fence. I took multiple, light cuts to get the face flat. I then was able to plane the pieces to thickness.

Glad it worked out

 

[BTL-A4]

I’d seriously consider asking the neighbor to use his machine, knock out your 40 chunks of 2x4 and see if the need comes up before I’d pony up for a new bench top Jointer. Give the guy $25 towards his next set of blades/sharpening. You can then search for something a little better for your needs, or wait for the next time you need a jointer to buy.

If you sent an 8” machine down the road, I doubt you would find a bench top machine adequate for what you want it for. Looking at was out there they all look the same to me, so likely they come from the same design and probably just a few factories in China. When prices range from $300 up it seems like low value for the dollar.

My neighbor is a serious woodworker, and he just retired, so it would be fun to get to know him a little better.

I sold it to a local person whose contact info I did not keep, or I might ask to use it. Of course, my neighbor is closer.

Yeah, a bench top machine is not going to match the floor model, but I thought it might be good enough.

 

[tyyost]

Yeah, a bench top machine is not going to match the floor model, but I thought it might be good enough.

I always thought the bench top models (like lunchbox planers) were originally geared toward trim carpenters who needed to do work in the field and couldn’t bring the cabinet shop along. At some point, the market changed to the hobbyist woodworkers but the tools didn’t really evolve. Early examples were the Makita and Hitachi planer/jointers.
It seems today, a six inch floor jointer is the first level of prosumer.

 

[ScottsGT]

I have the Cutech 8” bench top model. Really nice unit. Not enough space for full size floor models.

 

[Voi]

I did what was shown in the video posted my @mike93lx (thanks!) in post #7. I got a 1x6 and some aluminum C-channel to keep it stiff and made a longer auxiliary fence for my TS. I was able to get one edge relatively flat, then press that face on the table saw while making sure there were two points of contact on the fence. I took multiple, light cuts to get the face flat. I then was able to plane the pieces to thickness.

So you used the method in the video to face joint 2x4's?

I've edge jointed that way before but never anything taller than 2".

And even then I preferred to use a ripping jig.

 

[BTL-A4]

So you used the method in the video to face joint 2x4's?

I've edge jointed that way before but never anything taller than 2".

And even then I preferred to use a ripping jig.

Yes. I did one edge, then used that flat side on the table saw surface with two points of contact on the fence to cut the face. The wood pieces were actually more like 2x3.