To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Small Engine Swap Challenges... because of course it can't be easy

carbureted iron

Active member
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Messages
42
Summoning my inner Toolman Tim, I was compelled to swap a 7.5hp B&S engine of one yard widget in place of a 5.5hp B&S engine bolted on to another. The two engines are visually and dimensionally identical, and all mount holes line up precisely. Easy-peasy, thought I.

Jinx.

Of course there had to be a difference: the output shaft on the 7.5hp is ~0.75-in" and the 5.5hp shaft is ~0.875-in tapered.

Full stop.

I really want that a 7.5hp engine to work where it is now bolted. And I need to "sleeve" the output shaft to make it happen... safely.

I'm open to constructive, do'able suggestions.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The Cobbler

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Messages
26,158
Location
Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
as above, depending on what it's driving, a new one would be ideal... but a sleeve should work for you . down the list would be to see if the cranks are swappable ( providing the 5.5 is good)
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,549
Location
visalia ca
I have used sleeves and oversized and even stepped keystock a number of times to do what you are needed to,do.
It’s no big deal.
I have a lathe so I generally make what I need
 

john.k

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2024
Messages
1,200
Location
Brisbane Qld Australia
All the import engine sellers quote the shaft size ...........Id be inclined to get a taperlock if possible ,but thats going to add $50 to the cost.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
29,774
Location
Tacoma, Washington
What is the engine turning?
Depending upon what you're using it for, you should be able to find a blade adapter that will accomplish what you need to do.
(Also called a "Hub" by some.) (The steel widget on the drive end of the crankshaft.)
B&S used a few different output shaft diameters - I run into it on big Snapper walk-behinds and Toro walk-behinds.
 

Yankeefarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
1,225
Location
Connecticut
Check an outfit like smallenginewarehouse.com or similar. IIRC, years ago, when I swapped a B&S snowblower engine onto an Ariens that originally had a Tecumseh Sno-king, the place I bought the engine from sold a swap kit that included a sleeve and stepped key to adapt. Maybe a web search on repower yard equipment.
 

Waterlooboy2hp

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2015
Messages
82
Location
York, Pa.
Summoning my inner Toolman Tim, I was compelled to swap a 7.5hp B&S engine of one yard widget in place of a 5.5hp B&S engine bolted on to another. The two engines are visually and dimensionally identical, and all mount holes line up precisely. Easy-peasy, thought I.

Jinx.

Of course there had to be a difference: the output shaft on the 7.5hp is ~0.75-in" and the 5.5hp shaft is ~0.875-in.

Full stop.

I really want that a 7.5hp engine to work where it is now bolted. And I need to "sleeve" the output shaft to make it happen... safely.

I'm open to constructive, do'able suggestions.
============================================
Everybody all the way out to their 11th cousin is selling them on E-bay.

 

American Locomotive

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
11,134
Location
Rhode Island
Just an FYI, there was a point where Briggs (and others) were esentially making up the HP numbers on the engine's stickers. The engine manufacturers got in a lot of trouble, with some manufacturers advertising near double the actual power.

So assuming both engines run, and you're doing this in an attempt to gain more power, I think you should post both engine's model numbers so we can verify if you are going to gain more power.

Briggs stamps the model number on the fan shroud somewhere usually.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
29,774
Location
Tacoma, Washington
^ A class-action lawsuit in 2004 put a stop to that.
It's because of that lawsuit that lawnmower engines are no longer stickers with "horsepower" ratings, but rather "foot pounds of torque" (whatever that means when applied to a rotating blade.)
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
C

carbureted iron

Active member
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Messages
42
The 7.5hp B&S engine, model 126312-0413-E1, drives a (Troy-Bilt) pressure washer. Output shaft is 0.75-in dia. x ~2.9-in.
The 5.5hp B&S engine, model 120312-0143-E1, drives a chipper (MTD). Tapered output shaft between 0.875-in to 1-in dia. x ~3.25-in.

The tapered output shaft can't be sleeved, so no swapping btwn these two B&S engines. The tapered output shaft (and matching tapered receiver on the chipper impeller) means I cannot swap in, say, a Predator engine... implying when this aged B&S goes, so goes the entire appliance.

I presumed small engines were standardized. But output shafts vary in myriad ways: straight/tapered shaft; shaft diameter; keyed/smooth; keyway dimensions; internally tapped bore/external threaded; thread pitch & length; etc etc... I had absolutely no idea. Oy.
 
Last edited:

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,549
Location
visalia ca
The 7.5hp B&S engine, model 126312-0413-E1, drives a (Troy-Bilt) pressure washer. Output shaft is 0.75-in dia. x ~2.9-in.
The 5.5hp B&S engine, model 120312-0143-E1, drives a chipper (MTD). Tapered output shaft between 0.875-in to 1-in dia. x ~3.25-in.

The tapered output shaft can't be sleeved, so no swapping btwn these two B&S engines. The tapered output shaft (and matching tapered receiver on the chipper impeller) means I cannot swap in, say, a Predator engine... implying when this aged B&S goes, so goes the entire appliance.

I presumed small engines were standardized. But output shafts vary in myriad ways: straight/tapered shaft; shaft diameter; keyed/smooth; keyway dimensions; internally tapped bore/external threaded; thread pitch & length; etc etc... I had absolutely no idea. Oy.
You should be able to make an adapter with the ID tapered and the OD straight if you really need the equipment to be fixed.
There is always the option to pull the crank out and either turn down the shaft to a straight shaft or have an engine shop weld it up and turn it down. Kind of like they fix car engines with damaged journals.
You just have to figure out the value of the equipment verses the cost of the repair
 

SteveH - CO

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Colorado
I had a 7.8 horse Craftsman (Generac) generator engine with a tapered output shaft that engaged with the input shaft/sleeve on the generator. I sawed the stub of shaft off the generator with a slicing disk, and had it machined to a 1" OD, and installed it on the engine with sleeve retainer liquid, and a bolt (IIRC).

I then installed a Lovejoy coupler and used this Generac engine to power my log splitter.
 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
38,398
Location
Richmond, VA
You should be able to make an adapter with the ID tapered and the OD straight if you really need the equipment to be fixed.
There is always the option to pull the crank out and either turn down the shaft to a straight shaft or have an engine shop weld it up and turn it down. Kind of like they fix car engines with damaged journals.
You just have to figure out the value of the equipment verses the cost of the repair
Or just turn the engine on and grab an angle grinder...
 

Milton Shaw

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,868
60 years ago I worked in a small engine repair shop. Engines and machines were so expensive that we sold short blocks on B&S equipped machinery. The small block fit book listed all model and series numbers and listed all required parts to exactly replace motors. The book listed carbs, breathers, shields, housings and ignitions so that a factory exact motor could be assembled from stock. We would look engines up and sell the right short block, crankshaft, etc to give the exact engine. Most of the time the short block assembly was all that was replaced. These engines were used on a lot of construction equipment such as concrete trowels, vibrators etc. where the engine was a small part of the overall price of the equipment.
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
32,253
Location
Coronado, CA
Lovejoy Couplings can be had with different size bores, an example would be 7/8" diameter on one half, 1" on the other.

Check with Motion Industries or an industrial supply house.
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,419
Location
West central Indiana
How much torque can one of those handle ?
Which size?

Lovejoy makes sizes that can carry only 3.5 inch lbs to ones that can carry 170,000 in/lb (14,000 ft/lb)

The sizes that are stock and support those shaft sizes can carry 8 hp at 3600 rpm to 266 hp at 3600 rpm, also dependant on which spider material you choose
 
Last edited:
OP
C

carbureted iron

Active member
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Messages
42
I grudgingly put the engines back on their respective cradles and reattached their respective widgets to their output shafts.

<plaintive sigh>

I am... defeated.
 

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,655
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I grudgingly put the engines back on their respective cradles and reattached their respective widgets to their output shafts.

<plaintive sigh>

I am... defeated.
If the engine with the tapered shaft still runs you can remove the taper while it is running with an angle grinder; finish it with a file.... Just go slow, measure often and you'll have a straight shaft with no more runout than what you started with.
Then install couplings, sleeves, or whatever is commercially available to fit the respective shaft ends.

Edit: Looks like tapered adapter sleeves for small engines are readily available on eBay...might check there to see if you can find a combination that works.Screenshot_20241219-192849-991.png



No way I would give up on this yet.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom