Small Engine Tools... What do you have... What are must haves...

[PelicanPines]

Ok... I find myself doing some Engine Work on a 26hp Kohler engine, vertical shaft. I'm currently just doing the head gasket but I will be doing the rings in the future.

What specialty tools do I need???

What consumables should I have on hand???

What are must haves???

What do you have???

What do you wish you had???

What do I have:
1. Tractor lift (ok not really an engine tool... but i have one)
2. Gearwrench valve spring compresser
3. Precision Instruments 150-600 in pounds torque wrench
4. ... every possible socket, wrench, 4mm - 32mm

 

[Bluejoe]

That s a fairly easy job. But while your in there you mine as well take apart and clean head and check seats and valve contact.

 

[PelicanPines]

That s a fairly easy job. But while your in there you mine as well take apart and clean head and check seats and valve contact.

Good game plan... I'm sure it is all gunked up... based on the plug.

 

[d.mcfarland]

You will need punches!

 

[four.cycle]

26 hp?

well.. you're beyond my pay grade there... I just do lawnmower engines... little Briggs and Tecumseh single-cylinder vertical shaft models.
a lot of this stuff is for the mowers themselves, not the engines:

1/4" drive SAE socket set shallow and deep-well
3/8" drive SAE socket set shallow and deep-well
1/2" drive SAE socket set shallow (deep-well if you got 'em)
open-end / combination wrenches 1/4" - 1"
offset double-end box wrenches 3/8" - 1"
offset head open-end obstruction wrenches 3/8", 7/16", 1/2"
pliers. gotta have a whole mess of pliers.
screwdrivers. lots of screwdrivers.
Torx bits or drivers if you're working on late-model stuff (like Chinese Kohlers)
Vise-Grips. real ones.
Posi-lock model #104 3-jaw puller
good 2-jaw puller with at least a 4" spread at the business end
Craftsman "Bolt-Out" kit
tiny crochet hook
3/16" drift punch
teeny-tiny sewing needle
SAE feeler gauge .006" - .025"
spark plug sockets 5/8", 3/4", 13/16" (or deep-well equivalents)
magnetic picker-upper thingie to retrieve lost nuts and bolts
a few good sharp files
small ball peen hammer
BFH hammer (a five-pounder is generally sufficient)
20-inch length of 4x4 fence post
big-*** pry bar
wire. (as in soft iron 18-gauge wire)
zip ties. lots of zip ties. gotta keep the cables neat.
a whole mess of assorted and well-mixed nuts and bolts and screws to replace those missing or lost
Marvel Mystery Oil
K&W Knock-er Loose
white lithium grease
anti-sieze compound
heavy wheel bearing grease
Gumout jet-spray
Pressure washer
bench grinder
something that moves air really fast.... like a compressor.
band aids
bourbon or other suitable intoxicating substance

( I'm sure I left something out. I'll think of it later.)

 

[turfgnome]

What you need depends on the quality of the job you intend to do. These ase basics....

I recomend a bore guage, a ring expander, a ring compressor, cylinder hone, piston grove cleaner, feeler guages(plastic is nice for small engines),and a milar shaft sleeve for the basic job.

While you are doing it you might want newway valve cutter, a valve lapper, and more depending on the engine.

A tear down table and parts cleaner makes the job easier, as well as parts bins to keep parts in order and a camera if this is your first time doing this type of job. I would keep some 2cycle oil for light lubercation, some lint free rags, and carb cleaner on hand as well.

 

[PelicanPines]

26 hp?

well.. you're beyond my pay grade there... I just do lawnmower engines... little Briggs and Tecumseh single-cylinder vertical shaft models.
a lot of this stuff is for the mowers themselves, not the engines:

x - 1/4" drive SAE socket set shallow and deep-well
x - 3/8" drive SAE socket set shallow and deep-well
x - 1/2" drive SAE socket set shallow (deep-well if you got 'em)
x - open-end / combination wrenches 1/4" - 1"
x - offset double-end box wrenches 3/8" - 1"
(metric only) offset head open-end obstruction wrenches 3/8", 7/16", 1/2"
x - pliers. gotta have a whole mess of pliers.
x - screwdrivers. lots of screwdrivers.
x - Torx bits or drivers if you're working on late-model stuff (like Chinese Kohlers)
x - Vise-Grips. real ones.
NEED - Posi-lock model #104 3-jaw puller
NEED - good 2-jaw puller with at least a 4" spread at the business end
x - Craftsman "Bolt-Out" kit
x - tiny crochet hook
(full set) - 3/16" drift punch
x - teen-tiny sewing needle
x - SAE feeler gauge .006" - .025"
x - spark plug sockets 5/8", 3/4", 13/16" (or deep-well equivalents)
x - magnetic picker-upper thingie to retrieve lost nuts and bolts
x - a few good sharp files
x - small ball peen hammer
x - BFH hammer (a five-pounder is generally sufficient)
(chunk of mahogany) - 20-inch length of 4x4 fence post
x - big-*** pry bar
NEED - wire. (as in soft iron 18-gauge wire)
x - zip ties. lots of zip ties. gotta keep the cables neat.
x - a whole mess of assorted and well-mixed nuts and bolts and screws to replace those missing or lost
NEED - Marvel Mystery Oil
NEED - K&W Knock-er Loose
(spray) - white lithium grease
x - anti-sieze compound
NEED - heavy wheel bearing grease
NEED - Gumout jet-spray
x - Pressure washer
x - bench grinder
x - something that moves air really fast.... like a compressor.
x - band aids
(single malt) - bourbon or other suitable intoxicating substance

( I'm sure I left something out. I'll think of it later.)

I got the things marked with an x -

 

[four.cycle]

Again, I only do little lawnmower engines. Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh only, rotary models only, walk-behinds only. (NO Honda, Kohler, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Robin, Wisconsin, or any others. NO reel-type mowers. NO riders.)

So, going through your "don't haves":

The offset-head open-end obstruction wrenches are indispensable for removing and installing carburetors on Tecumseh engines. That's about all I use those for - most everything else a standard combination wrench will work dandy.

The pullers are for removing frozen/rusted blade adapters from the bottom ends of the crankshafts.

The wire is to tie the blade to the deck when attempting to remove a frozen blade bolt.

Marvel Mystery Oil to lubricate control cables.

K&W Knock-er Loose to free up frozen flywheel bolts, blade bolts, axle nuts. (Everybody's got their own opinion about penetrating oils, though. Go with what works for you.)

Heavy wheel bearing grease to lubricate axle shafts and wheels.

Gumout jet-spray to clean carburetors and other small parts in a hurry.

Bear in mind that I do NOT go inside the engines on these things; it's simply not worth the expense or trouble. I might replace a leaking upper or lower crankshaft seal or a head gasket, but that's as far as I go. It's just not worth the time and money to tear into valves, pistons, and crankshafts on a lawnmower I'm going to sell for $100 - $150.

My super-scientific high-tech tool for checking runout on the crankshaft: a 5/16-24 x 6-inch bolt. Screw it into the end of the crankshaft, lay the engine down on its side, spin the flywheel end of the crank with a socket and watch the bolt. If it turns wiggy-waggy, the engine goes into the scrap metal pile.
Simple.

Single malt should work just fine.

 

[geartow]

I would add a fair sized dead blow hammer to the mix,and a bore scope look inside cylinders and empty fuel tanks.

 

[PelicanPines]

Again, I only do little lawnmower engines. Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh only, rotary models only, walk-behinds only. (NO Honda, Kohler, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Robin, Wisconsin, or any others. NO reel-type mowers. NO riders.)

So, going through your "don't haves":

The offset-head open-end obstruction wrenches are indispensable for removing and installing carburetors on Tecumseh engines. That's about all I use those for - most everything else a standard combination wrench will work dandy.

The pullers are for removing frozen/rusted blade adapters from the bottom ends of the crankshafts.

The wire is to tie the blade to the deck when attempting to remove a frozen blade bolt.

Marvel Mystery Oil to lubricate control cables.

K&W Knock-er Loose to free up frozen flywheel bolts, blade bolts, axle nuts. (Everybody's got their own opinion about penetrating oils, though. Go with what works for you.)

Heavy wheel bearing grease to lubricate axle shafts and wheels.

Gumout jet-spray to clean carburetors and other small parts in a hurry.

Bear in mind that I do NOT go inside the engines on these things; it's simply not worth the expense or trouble. I might replace a leaking upper or lower crankshaft seal or a head gasket, but that's as far as I go. It's just not worth the time and money to tear into valves, pistons, and crankshafts on a lawnmower I'm going to sell for $100 - $150.

My super-scientific high-tech tool for checking runout on the crankshaft: a 5/16-24 x 6-inch bolt. Screw it into the end of the crankshaft, lay the engine down on its side, spin the flywheel end of the crank with a socket and watch the bolt. If it turns wiggy-waggy, the engine goes into the scrap metal pile.
Simple.

Single malt should work just fine.

I have penetrating oil ... a vintage can from sears (craftsman) ... 40 years old.

I need pullers... can't decide between the ratcheting style versus hammer slide. Will either do?

I would add a fair sized dead blow hammer to the mix,and a bore scope look inside cylinders and empty fuel tanks.

Bore scope... yes... I have a USB bore camera that I have used in my walls... I certainly can use it as you mention.

I thank you both and the others that have added to correcting my lack of knowledge.

 

[four.cycle]

Using a slide-hammer puller to remove the blade adapter from the bottom end of the crankshaft on a Briggs & Stratton or Tecumseh vertical-shaft mower engine would most likely result in cracking the engine case.

The "Posi-Lock" #104 is probably one of the best tool-buying decisions I've ever made. It was about $120 at Sears. Works every time. Bought it after a buddy and I fought with a Tecumseh for no less than three hours trying to get the blade adapter off an engine - we finally had to hook up an oxy-acetylene torch to get the damn thing off. Never again. Posi-Lock, a 3/4" wrench, and a big-*** screwdriver or pry bar and they're off in less than five minutes.

The 2-jaw puller is for the blade adapters where the Posi-Lock 3-jaw won't get a good bite. Got about three of them all on Ebay - all Owatonna (OTC) - all less than $30 a pop including shipping.

Something along this line:

little baby one $20 incl. shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-OWATONN...397873?hash=item4d4133d5b1:g:X7wAAOSwHgVW7FoV

bigger one (big enough for anything I'd encounter) $32 incl. shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PUL...:g:NBIAAOSwE6VXJlRL&item=121973775924&vxp=mtr

 

[PelicanPines]

Ok... slide hammer puller is out...

I had my eye on this http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3627-5-Ton-Ratcheting-Puller/dp/B003TO9YDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462415055&sr=8-1&keywords=gearwrench+puller

It can do 3 or 2 jaw pulls...

I hear you tho... the posi lock 104 looks sweet. Decisions decisions.

 

[four.cycle]

^ just listed:

might be able to score one on the cheap. same style as the original Owatonna "Grip-o-Matic". (wouldn't surprise me at all if this were actually manufactured by OTC for KAL.)
threads are buggered at the top end, but that shouldn't really matter in actual use.

KAL (US) 7430 2-jaw gear puller
used. (* SEE PHOTOS *)
99 cents + $6.80 shipping now. 0 bids now. ends Weds. 05/11
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAL-TOOLS-2...:g:HSEAAOSw1DtXKpTs&item=141982258574&vxp=mtr

 

[PelicanPines]

I'm on it... thanks...

I have deep offset metric wrenches (industro)... need sae... found some used USA made 6points on ebay ... ends sunday ... fingers crossed.

 

[Ohmthis]

I just overhauled my kohler command 26 a year ago January. Here is what I would add to your list.
Dial bore gauge or telescoping gauges (to measure specs of bore and rods)
0-3" micrometers
Brass feeler gauges (they won't scar aluminum as easily)
Scribe (to mark parts or orientation)
Sharpie markers (I like black and silver)
Zip lock bags or containers to mark and store parts
Parts washer or tub and diesel
The puller you need for the flywheel is the steering wheel type
Gasket scrapers
Right angle die grinder and brass wire wheel
Assortment of brushes (brass, plastic, bore, chip)
Valve compressor
Assembly lube
Camera
Copper gasket spray (I spray the head gaskets as they are known as weak)
That is just about it (I probably have forgot some though)
Some advice when you do the rings, replace the rods and valves too. The rods have no true bearing and WILL wear. They are cheap and easy to replace. The valves go through hell. They don't have a seal on the exhaust side (factory design). They will have a ton of carbon on the stem and can keep them from opening properly. Again, cheap and easy. Also get a factory shop manual (download from kohler). Here is where I got my parts. http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_rebuild_kits.htm
Good luck!

 

[Farmall 1066]

Good jump-gap spark tester. Fuel line pliers. 3/8" cordless impact & sockets. Good rubber tip blowgun. Vacuum oil extractor.

 

[four.cycle]

Camera

gah!

forgot all about that one - one of the most important pieces of gear!

take photos before you take the thing apart so you can refer to them later for reassembly.

Vacuum oil extractor.

you can get a fluid pump made by "Arnold" for about $12 bucks at HomeDepot.
moves water really fast. haven't tried it yet for gasoline or oil. sure worked dandy fixing my mother's toilet day before yesterday, though!

fuel lines I pinch off with a little set of those long-nose Vise-Grips. I replace ALL fuel lines so it doesn't matter if the old ones get gouged up in the process.

good gasket scraper can be had fairly cheap. forgot that one too. aluminum engine castings are really soft and gouge easily.

 

[drink]

A small engine compression test kit

Flywheel puller

Tap & die set

Ring pliers

Punch & chisel set

Long reach torx drivers

Battery charger

Welder

Hammer set

Torque wrenches

Service manuals

Oil catch pan & recycle containers

Engine RPM tester

Fuel recovery container

Multi-meter

Wire connectors, removal, and crimping tools

Work bench with vise(s), anvil, etc.

Torches

Gloves

etc.

 

[PelicanPines]

I'm a ziplock bag with labels kinda guy... I tape screws in place on parts... I organize the bags in crates. I took some pictures as I'm going with the disassembly. Its a side project so I have not devoted a lot of time yet.

I'm into being prepared... So the reason for this thread... To learn

Takes a week to get stuff sometime so I'm going slow. Gasket set just arrived along with spring compressor and push rod tool.

Going to get some consumableles and finish taking things apart for the head gasket repair.

I truely am thankful to everyone!!!

 

[joel63]

What's the 20-inch length of 4x4 fence post used for?

Thanks.

Some good lists here.

 

[c39er]

Inch Lb torque wrench to tighten the rod and head properly...

 

[G_P]

Lots of engine degreaser or brake cleaner.
Most of the small engines I've worked on have been filthy and needed to be cleaned before they could be worked on.

 

[drink]

In case nobody mentioned it so far I think a hoist with rigging would be nice. You don't want to hurt your back if you can avoid it. Remember, you only get one back so you better take good care of it.

 

[DemoFly]

Get some pig mat oil absorbent pads for stupid oil filter locations. Place it on the engine block below the filter so you don't get oil all over the place.

Kohler locations seem especially stupid.

You could also get a form-a-funnel.

 

[four.cycle]

What's the 20-inch length of 4x4 fence post used for?

jam it into the discharge chute to block the blade when removing the flywheel nut so the crank doesn't turn. (some models, later Toro "Recycler", for example, require a piece of 2x4 or a chunk of firewood. I have all of them at the ready. the 4x4 is the most-often used.)

Lots of engine degreaser or brake cleaner.

that's what the pressure washer is for. if they're really grimy I'll spray them down with a little of the purple "Super Clean" before washing.

... a whole laundry list of equipment - enough to supply a large automotive repair shop.

you could fix lawnmowers for a hundred years and never make enough money to pay for all that gear. it's a low-profit business. if you can't do it on the cheap, it ain't gonna work. new parts are spendy enough - the 491588S air filters I picked up yesterday (fits B&S "Quantum" engines) were $6 bucks a pop.
(and for Crissakes don't even tell me I should be buying cheap-*** knock-offs from China on Ebay - already been down that path. never again.)

 

[joel63]

jam it into the discharge chute to block the blade when removing the flywheel nut so the crank doesn't turn. (some models, later Toro "Recycler", for example, require a piece of 2x4 or a chunk of firewood. I have all of them at the ready. the 4x4 is the most-often used.)



that's what the pressure washer is for. if they're really grimy I'll spray them down with a little of the purple "Super Clean" before washing.



you could fix lawnmowers for a hundred years and never make enough money to pay for all that gear. it's a low-profit business. if you can't do it on the cheap, it ain't gonna work. new parts are spendy enough - the 491588S air filters I picked up yesterday (fits B&S "Quantum" engines) were $6 bucks a pop.
(and for Crissakes don't even tell me I should be buying cheap-*** knock-offs from China on Ebay - already been down that path. never again.)

Thanks.

Having to deal with all the cheap made in China **** is no fun either.

 

[turfgnome]

you could fix lawnmowers for a hundred years and never make enough money to pay for all that gear. it's a low-profit business. if you can't do it on the cheap, it ain't gonna work. new parts are spendy enough - the 491588S air filters I picked up yesterday (fits B&S "Quantum" engines) were $6 bucks a pop.
(and for Crissakes don't even tell me I should be buying cheap-*** knock-offs from China on Ebay - already been down that path. never again.)

I own a outdoor power equipment shop and have most of what you would see in an auto shop, in fact I have more hand tools then you would see in most auto shops. I own lifts, transmission jacks, presses, a milling machine, a lathe, almost every puller you can imagine, and all kinds of specially tools such as hydraulic flow meters. I need the equipment to do a faster job so that I can keep things going out. I found the equipment was cheaper then hiring more people, as more people need more room and you have to pay them when they are not busy. Now if your working out of your own garage yes you will never pay for all of this but you do have shops with it. This is a low margin industry and low respect from customers but you can make money in it if you can do a higher quality job then the customer can do themselves.

I did forget the rpm meter on my list of things he will likely need for the job, you will need it to reset the gov after you put it back together if it is not a courage motor.

 

[bcradio]

Sounds like you only need about $12k more worth of tools and equipment before you even attempt to start this project.

Good luck!

 

[drink]

Sounds like you only need about $12k more worth of tools and equipment before you even attempt to start this project.

Good luck!

Let's add an oil filter wrench to the 12k just to spice it up a little. Don't forget tool storage!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Good jump-gap spark tester. Fuel line pliers. 3/8" cordless impact & sockets. Good rubber tip blowgun. Vacuum oil extractor.

If you are going to be doing rings (or bearings) you will need a torque wrench.

Get a supply of spring hose clamps (the bent nose needle nose work great on these).

The most common fuel line is 1/4" ID. The fuel line they use of small engines is typically 7/16" OD, while the fuel line you get at an auto parts store is 1/2" OD. It will work, just harder to put the hose clamps on. Newer Chinese engines use metric fuel line but I think 1/4" is "close enough".

Assortment of wire brushes, including ones you can put on the end of a drill.

Propane torch.

 

[theoldwizard1]

(and for Crissakes don't even tell me I should be buying cheap-*** knock-offs from China on Ebay - already been down that path. never again.)

But you can buy genuine B&S of Stens filters for <$5 on eBay. I try to keep 2 or 3 on hand.

 

[turfgnome]

Sounds like you only need about $12k more worth of tools and equipment before you even attempt to start this project.

Good luck!

Not really... if he talks to a outdoor power equipment dealership he might be able to get them to do the jobs that he can not afford to do such as valves. They will honestly likely not want to do the job(most dealership would rather shorter jobs, it is hard to find enough techs in this line of work to keep with work as it is) and will be more then willing to help him out if he buys the parts at their store. He would still want a bore gauge and calipers to determine what he needs to replace and maybe a ring compressor to finish the job at home.

You can get the job done reasonably but just like an auto shop if you want to do the highest quality job sometimes the tools start to get costly.

 

[PelicanPines]

Way back when... it was pretty easy to just buy a completed head... valves and all. I saw a few on eBay but they were not newly refurbished ... so yes I would farm it out if it needed "machining"

Going to focus on assembly and disassembly for now. Tools for that. Diagnostics will be limited to eyeballs and the few measurement tools I have.

A few mentioned a torque wrench... in my OP I stated I got a Precision Instruments 150-600 inch pound beam wrench. It arrived with a calibration certificate.

 

[drink]

Yes, precision measuring tools are a must to be able to make sure parts are within spec. Try adding a snack bar with drinks! Why not just buy a new engine? It should cost a bundle but it would likely cost less than all these tools.