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Small engine winterizing?

Lyaec350

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Nov 17, 2007
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somewhere...
So it's that time of year... I'm getting the fleet of small engines ready for the winter and after facing numerous fuel related issues this summer I want to do it right to minimize trouble next year.

Engines include 2 and 4 stroke, everything from a 30cc chainsaw to a 13 horse generator...

I've been reading conflicting reports about how to winterize small engines and I was just wondering what you guys have found to work well. Is there any fool proof way of keeping these infrequently used items in good running condition? Here is what has been suggested so far:

1.) Empty gas tank, add a tiny bit of stabilized fuel and run until dry. Drain carb (if possible), remove spark plug and squirt a bit of oil into the cylinder and pull the starter a few times to distribute oil. Leave 2 stroke engines with piston at the top of the stroke to keep junk from getting in from the exhaust port.

OR

2.) Empty old gas, fill totally with stabilized fuel (SeaFoam was recommended over Stabil by my boat dealer). Logic here is that you can never get all the gas out, even by running it dry and air is what causes the fuel to go bad, so by filling the tank up full you are removing most of the air. Same procedure w/ oil in the cylinder.

OR

3.) Something else totally???

Does squirting oil in and cranking it a few times work just as well as using a fogging spray?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm pretty new to the small engine world.
 
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gofastman

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number 1 :thumbup:
dont put to much stock in fuel stabilizers, it's still necessary to run most of the stabilized fuel out IMO
also, i would shell out the $5 for a can of fogging oil rather than just regular engine oil
 
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ossaguy

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Jun 7, 2008
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258
I work on lots of power equipment every day at my job,and I agree that there is conflicting storing advice out there.It seems every manufacturer recommends going with the dry method,but I see a lot of fuel system damage from just running it dry.sometimes nothing bad happens,but other times not.If you want to store your equipment in a dry state,its always best to take the carb apart to blow everything dry,and same with the fuel filter,line and tank.It's true that the tiny amount left will go bad and wreck the carb,and lines,etc,especially on the newer emission-certified engines that have really tiny passages.Since taking carbs apart is beyond the average owner,that is where the advice on keeping it filled wet,with the stabilizer mixed in comes into play.On the 2 stroke units,if you choose the better oil that says on the label that it has stabilzer in it already,that makes it handier than having to use Sta-bil.On my hardly-used bikes I had,I did the wet-store method,and never had a problem in many years.I always started them once a month at least,and ran them to keep them exercised.I always used Sta-bil,so for me,it sure worked ok.I guess I've never heard of flogging oil.Fluid Film"" is a really good spray that doesn't harm anything and prevents rust like nothing else I've seen.I would use that on anything that had to be stored outside or in damp conditions.Fluid Film BTW,is the best thing if you have hedge trimmers,since it's non-petroleum based,it won't turn the leaves brown like WD-40 will.If you have never heard of it,you can Google their website and check it out.Great stuff.

Steve
 

danc333

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May 18, 2008
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Southern New Jersey
I'm not sure how much equipment you need to winterize so this may not be practical for you. I have a lawn mower (4 cycle) a line trimmer and a edger (both 2 cycle) that I take out and start once a month and let them run for about 5 or 10 minutes. I have had no problems for the past 3 years doing this. I usually run them on a mild day which in south Jersey means above 32 degrees in the middle of winter but any day that its not snowing works as well.
 

eschoendorff

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So, what do you guys like better, Sta-bil or Sea-Foam? The Sea-Foam folks seem to think that their product is a better fuel stabilizer... of course. Any real-world experience/preferences?
 
OP
L

Lyaec350

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somewhere...
I'm not sure how much equipment you need to winterize so this may not be practical for you. I have a lawn mower (4 cycle) a line trimmer and a edger (both 2 cycle) that I take out and start once a month and let them run for about 5 or 10 minutes. I have had no problems for the past 3 years doing this. I usually run them on a mild day which in south Jersey means above 32 degrees in the middle of winter but any day that its not snowing works as well.

Lets see, current count is 12 small engines.

We've got:

350 watt generator
1000 watt generator
5000 watt generator
18" chainsaw
16" chainsaw
14" chainsaw
leafblower
string trimmer
4 hp trash pump
6hp wheeled string trimmer/brush cutter
5hp pressure washer
7hp snowblower

so I'd rather not be starting everything once a month :)
 

Givl Reggin

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Hawaii, USA
I have begun within the last 5 or 6 years to use Sta-bil all year around whenever I buy fuel, even in the automobiles because some of them may sit 3-4 months or more without being used.

Also the problem with leaving gasoline sit for long periods is evaporation and the gum it leaves behind and the accumulation of water from condensation. What I do to prevent this is fill the tank to the brim whenever I know something is not going to be used in awhile and then put a piece of plastic kitchen wrap over the opening to seal the vent and put the cap back on.

I have done this method for 30 years and have never had any problem, even with things like snowmobiles that may only see use 2 or 3 days a year.
 
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gofastman

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So, what do you guys like better, Sta-bil or Sea-Foam? The Sea-Foam folks seem to think that their product is a better fuel stabilizer... of course. Any real-world experience/preferences?

After puting sea foam directly on a carbon covered piston and seeing what little effect it had, i really dont beleve anything that company says.
 

Stanger

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Alton, IL
After puting sea foam directly on a carbon covered piston and seeing what little effect it had, i really dont beleve anything that company says.
I've seen it really wake up some high mileage cars when used as directed. Let the car warm up to full operating temp and allow the vacuum line to intake the seafoam. Let it sit for a while and start it back up. It will run very rough at first but white smoke will quickly start flowing out of your exhaust. It didn't do too much to my car since its in pretty good shape, but it helped my friend's LS1 Trans-Am a lot.
 

Treeman

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Jan 4, 2008
Messages
548
Location
Michigan
Here's something to stir the pot and maybe elicit some opinions. Our workplace is changing over to E10 ethanol fuel and we had to have our bulk tank cleaned first (pump any water in the bottom) and install a special fuel filter.

I have been studying about E10 and it's issue with PHASE SEPARATION. Numerous sites state that E10 stored for over 4 to 5 months can get phase separation that can ruin an engine. They also say fuel stabilizers don't prevent phase separation.

Anyone know about this?

I've been doing the "wet" storage method with stabil for many years. It only becomes an issue in forgotten engines that go 2 or more years.
 

trackwelder

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n.y
I install fuel shutoffs on everthing if possible. Fuel treated with stabilizer and engine ran until it starts to sputter then feed some choke to burn the carb dry. Pull the plug and fog or oil any crank it over. Then I change the oil and put it in storage. Tools like the trencher or trashpump for long storage have the fuel drained from the tank. Gas is to expensive to let evaporate or go stale. I have done this for many years and have had no problems. Stabilized fuel still evaporates in carbs and leaves a powdered mess to clean out.
 

64merc

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Jan 24, 2008
Messages
2,816
Location
Texas
You're going to think I'm crazy, but I've never done anything special to my small engine powered lawn equipment. I just use fuel stabilizer year round and leave everything in the shed until I need it again. Granted, the off season is usually only a couple of months but I've never had any trouble. My current lawn mower is 4 years old and I've never done anything special, or even changed the oil for that matter. I know, I know, I'm bad.
 

gofastman

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Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
729
Location
Minnesota
Here's something to stir the pot and maybe elicit some opinions. Our workplace is changing over to E10 ethanol fuel and we had to have our bulk tank cleaned first (pump any water in the bottom) and install a special fuel filter.

I have been studying about E10 and it's issue with PHASE SEPARATION. Numerous sites state that E10 stored for over 4 to 5 months can get phase separation that can ruin an engine. They also say fuel stabilizers don't prevent phase separation.

Anyone know about this?

I've been doing the "wet" storage method with stabil for many years. It only becomes an issue in forgotten engines that go 2 or more years.

http://www.epa.gov/OMS/regs/fuels/rfg/waterphs.pdf
 
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