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Small lathe Quick change tool post

dogdog

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Got my self a 7x10 mini lathe the early hf model. It comes with an after market QCTP from A2z corp that seems to be out of business, unfortunately it doesn’t come when the tool holder or anything else. Anyone know what I need from Amazon. The price of them seems to range from $30 to $130.
 

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Mgdoug3

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A wedge style tool post is preferred over the piston style which is what is pictured.
 

paulsomlo

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I think Aloris AXA is much larger than the A2Z; the A2Z is made of anodized aluminum isn't it? It was marketed towards very small hobby lathes, like the 7x10.
 
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dogdog

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I think Aloris AXA is much larger than the A2Z; the A2Z is made of anodized aluminum isn't it? It was marketed towards very small hobby lathes, like the 7x10.
The one I have seems to be made of stainless or some hard chunk of steel, and it is for the 7x10 I got from Craigslist. As is type of deal, means I got the lathe came with this tool post but don’t have any of the tool holders.. Probably estate sale. Not too familiar with what’s availiable. Figure I asked.
 

F-22

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A wedge style tool post is preferred over the piston style which is what is pictured.
For a mini lathe I don't think it's something you'd need to worry about...


If you're replacing the whole thing, a small multifix is relatively cheap and nifty. Hard to make your own holders, but the standard is common enough that you can always get them...
 
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dutchgray

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For a mini lathe I don't think it's something you'd need to worry about...


If you're replacing the whole thing, a small multifix is relatively cheap and nifty. Hard to make your own holders, but the standard is common enough that you can always get them...
Multifix are really nice, probably the best if your doing precision tool room work, I have never used an Aloris (as they are extremely rare over here) but import wedge types are pretty common, probably the best qctp for heavier work (though for heavy work the standard 4 way tool post will likely be better)

There isn't anything actually wrong with a quality piston type toolpost either, I have owned and used a genuine Dickson T2 with genuine (or Bison) toolholders and had no issues with it, it did go with that lathe when I sold it, but I have another that is currently unused, waiting on a machine it will fit.
Piston types do have to be high quality to work well, the cheap imports are best avoided, especially the Indian made versions.
 

RoninB4

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-Never been a fan of the piston type but I've never had one I'd call high quality either. Have had or used several different types and I regard the piston type as just barely above the standard "lantern" type tool holders. For your first lathe, especially since it's a small one, the less expensive piston type in your first link should be good enough. The second link'd one is substantially more expensive and while I feel it would be a better holder it's not really worth the expense for your lathe. Either you won't get enough use out it (infrequent machining) or you'll get hooked on wanting a larger/better lathe and the tool holder will go with it. The money saved on the aluminum piston type can be spent on other tooling/measuring instruments you'll need. It gets more expensive every time you upgrade so spend your money wisely. The best of anything isn't required right now.

The tool holder post needs to be matched to the center height of the spindle or your cutting tool bit will either be above or below the center height of the spindle. This height relationship is crucial to doing any work on the lathe, (below for OD work/ above for ID work). The "lantern" style you adjust the height in the "dish", other post holders are adjusted either with shims (PITA) or via an adjusting screw at the dovetail or external adjusting screw like in the link'd example. There's a limited amount of height adjustment that can be done so that's why these QC tool holders are matched with the size of the lathe.

The aluminum piston type should be fine until you're wanting to step up to a better/larger lathe. For cutting bits I'd go with HSS over carbide. HSS can be resharpened with an ordinary grinder, carbide requires special Silicone Carbide wheels or a diamond wheel. Carbide is brittle and easily chipped/shattered from excessive vibration and bad cutting conditions. HSS is much tougher than carbide and won't chip/shatter like carbide. Shaping the cutter is often required certain operations, easily done with HSS but not so with carbide. Carbide is a throw away when the cutting edge is ruined. HSS renewal is a short trip to the grinding wheel. Far more value in HSS (IMO) for a small, vibration prone lathe. Carbide does cut at faster speeds than HSS but that doesn't make it a better choice. I have several other reasons for choosing HSS that involve tool geometry per material but that's just my opinion and others have their own opinion.

Your own opinion will come from reading all you can, asking questions, and your experience. Be safe, good luck, and congratulations on the purchase.
 
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dogdog

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and this came in today hopefully this is all I needed
 

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RoninB4

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Do you have cutting tools and a small pedestal grinder? If you have HSS (drills, turning/facing cutter blanks, etc.) you'll really want a small pedestal grinder with an aluminum oxide wheel. If you use carbide they're basically a throw away. Got an inexpensive caliper for measuring?
 
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dogdog

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Do you have cutting tools and a small pedestal grinder? If you have HSS (drills, turning/facing cutter blanks, etc.) you'll really want a small pedestal grinder with an aluminum oxide wheel. If you use carbide they're basically a throw away. Got an inexpensive caliper for measuring?
Yea I have some but not all, haven’t touch a lathe in 30+ years
 

RoninB4

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Yea I have some but not all, haven’t touch a lathe in 30+ years
-Ahh so you've run one before? You know what you'll need an when you'll need it. As for getting back into the "swing" of things (lathe joke) just go slow so your memory will unlock. Ask questions if you feel like it will help. Be safe, good luck.
 
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