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Small portable compressor questions - specifically the tank

mark-NJ

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Apr 1, 2019
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new jersey
Let me start by saying "I'm not, by-and-large, a worrier", but lately I've seen a few youtube videos of compressor tanks rupturing catastrophically. It has me thinking about many things:

1.) My 4HP, 13gal Campbell Hausfeld was new in '96. Do I empty the tank's petcock every so often? Yes!...um, yeah...kinda. Maybe. Sort of. 2 or 3 times a year? Certainly not "after every use" as is written on the tank.

2.) Do these things blow up often? No. But when they do, the consequences are often tragic. My compressor lives under my bench where I stand. A rupture would likely remove my legs...not a joyous prospect. Kinda like lightning: people don't get hit often, but when they do, it's life-altering. I want no part of that!

3.) My compressor is 100% fine...it's the tank that's likely "unhealthy" and in need of replacement. I borescoped it last weekend, and it's about as ugly in there as I feared it would be. Maybe worse. It looks like the makings of a mushroom farm. I've immediately taken this unit out of service.

4.) Ive read that my tank has a "discard by" date on it somewhere. I can't find it, but it's >20 years old, so I suspect the date has passed.

5.) New tank or old, clean tank or dirty: do I want this directly under my bench at all? (asking rhetorically...the answer is: "no, I do not")

As stated in #3, above, my compressor is just fine. I don't need portability, so I've dismantled the compressor components from the tank and have designed & built a stand-alone platform for all of it in my garage-shop. I built a manifold, cooling system, condensation water draw-off; I re-installed the check valve, the blowdown, the contactor/pressure valve and the hose connection. Frankly, it's a better layout than what C-H had on the self-contained tank system.

Mu garage already has a compressor distribution system done in 1/2" K-copper that runs around to various outlets. It was a very simple matter of cutting into it and sweating some more copper line that I ran outside for connection to a new tank that will reside behind the garage. Using the old tank, I confirmed that this new way of doing things is 100% functional. After all, the physics of a pressurized system are clear that the location of the components really doesn't matter. So the "business end" is in the shop while the "danger" is safely outside.

As I said, I tested the system, but I used the old tank to do so. But I will be replacing it with a new tank and condemning the old one.

My question to you all is this: New tank: Steel or aluminum?

Steel: Pros: less expensive, I can buy a tank pretty close to the size of the old one (11 gal at Horrible Freight, $40), I can be more diligent about draining it. It's like "starting over" with a clean, perfect tank, and knowing what I've learned, I can replace it in 5-years or so. Cons: It's steel. It will rust; try though I might, I cannot stop that. The clock is running. And it will live outside in the elements so I need to consider external rust, too.

Aluminum: Pros: It won't rust, and that's nice! That alone might be the decision point. Cons: The selling feature seems to be "They're really light", but I don't care about portability. Seems to me that a trade off for weight reduction *might be* (I'm not sure) stress hardning: Aluminum doesn't really like being repeatedly stretched, but that's exactly what repeated pressurization & release does to a tank. Are these aluminum tanks really up to the job, or do they work-harden (leading to rupture)? I"m looking at the 7 gallon at HF for $65, though I see others that cost a lot more. They question, simply, is: do I trust HF (Chinese) cheap aluminum? And, lastly, the HF is small...7 gallons. I'll need two of them to match what I have now with the stock C-H 13 gal.

Of the 2 choices above, what's the general thought? (and, no, I'm not putting a pressure vessel...steel or aluminum...inside the shop. That isn't an option.)

Thank you for reading and I appreciate your responses,
 
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theoldwizard1

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The only aluminum tank compressors have small (<10 gal) tanks, so yes they are aiming at the "easy to carry" market.
 

GeoBruin

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Watch some sped up videos of compressor tanks being filled and emptied. You'll be surprised how much they expand and contract. I just don't think of aluminum being able to withstand that many cycles without plastic deformation.

Small tanks are relatively stiff so they don't expand nearly as much. The little aluminum 8 gallon HF tank I have is great for running a brad nailer in thr house or airing up tires. It doesn't weigh anything. But I wouldn't replace my main compressor tank with aluminum. It's easier (and cheaper) to rig an auto drain.
 
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mark-NJ

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new jersey
I just don't think of aluminum being able to withstand that many cycles without plastic deformation.

I wouldn't replace my main compressor tank with aluminum. It's easier (and cheaper) to rig an auto drain.

I'm leaning towards these thoughts, exactly.
 
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mark-NJ

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I did some research during lunch and have come to the conclusion that both HF tanks are disqualified. In fact, most "portable air tanks" are disqualified for the same reason: they all seem to lack a drain on the bottom. Purely as an aside, that's pretty stupid. There' water in air, and it's going to get into the tank. The requirement to drain...especially on a steel tank...should be obvious. But I digress...

So I began looking for aftermarket / replacement tanks, and for the pricetags I saw ($300 - 500) I could buy a new compressor! or 3! This ought not be this hard.

Then I stumbled onto something unexpectedly: Truck (specifically trailer) tanks! Rated 160PSI, covered in convenient NPT ports, heavier steel designed for the abuse on a truck, road salt, etc. Mounting brackets welded on. Powder coated. And very reasonably priced! What's not to like about THAT? I found a 12.3 gallon for $120. Called the vendor, spoke to tech support and asked if there was any reason why a trailer tank couldn't be used in my application. He assured me that people do it all the time, and if you stop to think about it, the compressed air in the tank doesn't know whether it's flowing to a trailer brake or a power tool. (stands to reason, of course). So I bought it.
 
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joshmodelskidoo

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Apr 18, 2012
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mid western michigan
If there’s no pitting in the tank why not try a sealer inside the tank. If you get a new tank seal the bottom with sealer. Maybe an automatic drain valve system like the hf one but still manually drain the tank occasionally. My compressors lately are vertical and i put galvanized pipe on the bottom with a brass valve so I can drain it easily so I will drain it more often. With the pipe It also gives the water a place to sit and rust the pipe vs the tank and i put on the hf automatic drain on it to. I plumbed that in with copper vs the hard plastic line.
 
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mike93lx

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Do you really think that if an aluminum tank was prone to failure from cycling, that any manufacturer would be selling them?

What are scuba tanks made of again? And they run an order of magnitude higher pressure.

Plus the aluminum tank models are all relatively small, and generally lower pressure. My aluminum tank CAT taps out at 125psi
 

mikedodge

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My little compressor has a leaking tank that only started. I noticed some water under it and then saw it bubbling at a smooth little rust stain underneath. I bought another compressor to steal the tank off.
That thing about the tanks expanding is probably why some rupture so it's not a bad idea to check the tank every so often.
 

GeoBruin

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May 5, 2018
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Do you really think that if an aluminum tank was prone to failure from cycling, that any manufacturer would be selling them?

What are scuba tanks made of again? And they run an order of magnitude higher pressure.

Plus the aluminum tank models are all relatively small, and generally lower pressure. My aluminum tank CAT taps out at 125psi
SCUBA tanks are widely available in both steel and aluminum (I own both).

Scuba tanks are much smaller (and thicker because they are designed to be dragged around under water and banged into rocks etc) so they do not undergo the kind of volumetric change that a much larger, thinner walled, air compressor tank would.

Scuba tanks may get cycled once or twice a week at most by an avid diver, they are filled in tanks of water and drained over the course of an hour or so.

Air compressor tanks are cycled many times per day (often many times per hour).

Scuba tanks are routinely visually inspected and hydro tested to ensure they haven't been compromised. Air compressor tanks are never inspected and often see service lives measured in decades.

You're not just comparing apples and oranges, you're comparing apples and sliced turkey.
 

Citation

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I did some research during lunch and have come to the conclusion that both HF tanks are disqualified. In fact, most "portable air tanks" are disqualified for the same reason: they all seem to lack a drain on the bottom. Purely as an aside, that's pretty stupid. There' water in air, and it's going to get into the tank. The requirement to drain...especially on a steel tank...should be obvious. But I digress...

So I began looking for aftermarket / replacement tanks, and for the pricetags I saw ($300 - 500) I could buy a new compressor! or 3! This ought not be this hard.

Then I stumbled onto something unexpectedly: Truck (specifically trailer) tanks! Rated 160PSI, covered in convenient NPT ports, heavier steel designed for the abuse on a truck, road salt, etc. Mounting brackets welded on. Powder coated. And very reasonably priced! What's not to like about THAT? I found a 12.3 gallon for $120. Called the vendor, spoke to tech support and asked if there was any reason why a trailer tank couldn't be used in my application. He assured me that people do it all the time, and if you stop to think about it, the compressed air in the tank doesn't know whether it's flowing to a trailer brake or a power tool. (stands to reason, of course). So I bought it.
Is yours a pancake compressor? I don't think I've ever seen a tank without a drain on the bottom.

Honestly, unless you are patching leaks in your tank don't worry about it. Compressor explosions are very rare. Pinhole leaks are the common failure mode. That is how my ~20 year old CH 20 gallon tank failed. Pinhole leak in the bottom. The end.

Really, I think you are over thinking this. If nothing else, your original tank lasted 25 years without an issue. Get the same thing again.
 

FMB4

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Jan 19, 2017
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Imo, compressor tank failures seen on Y tube are mostly staged. 1st off: rusted comp tanks will intially begin to leak at a pinhole or 2, which is usually easily noticed. 2nd, most, if not all, comp air tank failures are actually caused by failure with both the pressure safty release valve and the pressure shutoff circuit.
 
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