Small time garage: best propane options - quiet?

[a_gunslinger]

Looking for a basic propane heater 5-8K BTU for a two car garage non insulated walls (except for the brick exterior.) Basic boring suburban 2 car garage.

Lots of propane heater out there, considering the Mr Heater ones. But one of my main criteria are quiet because I like to listen to music.

Working in garage on projects is usually a couple times a week deal over 4-6 hours. Not constant.

So criteria would be:

Vent Free and Quiet

Any experience with these or others?

This with the 20lb tank adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G51BZU?keywords=me%20heater&qid=1449247123&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

http://www.mrheater.com/sunrite-double-tank-top-heater-1408.html

Someday when Im a big boy I hope to have a real garage

 

[Falcon67]

 

[Jackfre]

Rinnai 510 or possibly 824. cool to the touch and I am just listening to music over mine as I send this.

 

[a_gunslinger]

Rinnai 510 or possibly 824. cool to the touch and I am just listening to music over mine as I send this.

Thanks Jackfre. That looks like a great heater! It's a little out of my budget though.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

I use this but............. it will kill you from carbon monoxide unless used safely !

 

[Showkey]

And any Chemical vapors and fumes ( used in the garage) passing through the heater will make toxic gases and put them right back in the room.

Yes.......safety is for sissies

http://www.garagejournal.com/the-garage-journal-alliance/

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311500

 

[laser3kw]

I heat with a "construction heater" on propane. I also have TWO CO detectors. one is just the alarm type, the other has a readout along with an alarm and detects CO, and hazardous gases. I have burned my heater on the 80k setting for 8 hours continuously inside my very well insulated garage, just raising the display from zero to maybe 25. That is wayyyyy far away from the detectors minimum threshold for alarm (very safe, in other words).
I urge everyone who uses an "un-vented" or open flame type heater to get a CO (carbon monoxide) detector with readout just for peace of mind at least.
The added benefit is that if you work with solvents, paints or on engines and run them inside, it will alert you if the exhaust / vapors becomes an issue.
And, Yes, I've set my CO detectors off from both exhaust and paint fumes! Time to take a break and let it air out.

 

[bjcouche]

If you plan on using a propane "construction heater" "torpedo heater", etc. I second the recommendation on the CO detector. For a short while I tried a 100,000 BTU propane construction heater in my shop. The CO detector never went off but the fumes got unbearable before the temperature got bearable. The instructions for most of these tell you to open a window or have an otherwise well ventilated area to use it in. I interpret well ventilated as drafty and to the point you can't heat it.
Thus, my recommendation is to barrow or rent the type of heater you are considering buying before you buy it. That way you can test to be sure it fits your needs before dropping the big bucks.
Also, depending on your location, and time of year you refill your propane, electric heat can be less expensive per BTU than propane, Just a thought.

Brian

 

[98ssuck]

By the time you open a window to get enough combustion air you might as well be heating outside as well . Or leave the window shut and reburn your combustion gases creating co. Those little heaters don't look worth it. Better to use a couple of electric heaters. They might cost a little more to run but won't kill you.

 

[CNGsaves]

Safe solution that has built-in low oxygen sensor is Mr Heater Big Buddy. It has 3 heat levels with max of 18K Btu. Runs on either 2 of the small 1 lb propane bottles, or can add optional hose attachment to connect to BBQ 20 lb propane tank.

I've got one and it's works great, even in confined space like a camper.

See website of Northern Tool and get discounts on RetailMeNot.

 

[BillK]

a,

Your location might help get better answers.

That being said, with the price of Propane what it is and the "smell" factor, personally I would be looking at an electric heater similar to this one:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/newair-...e60e&ksprof_id=13&ksaffcode=pg1111&ksdevice=c

I have something similar in my 2 car attached garage in Maryland and it does just fine. Probably about the same amount of time in the garage as you are talking about. I really notice very little difference in the electric bill. It is a little noisier than the propane one you show but I personally cannot stand the odor from those heaters however slight it is.

Just my opinion,

 

[laser3kw]

Those little heaters don't look worth it. Better to use a couple of electric heaters. They might cost a little more to run but won't kill you.

EVERYTHING has a propensity to kill you if not handled correctly. Like mention by numerous people, they have burned propane, indoors, for hours, without problems. I'm sure you can find stories of bad experiences with anything - it's the internetz after all

with the price of Propane what it is and the "smell" factor,

If there is a "smell factor" your unit is not burning right. It is running rich. Get it fixed. My first 130k forced air torpedo propane heater did this. My HVAC guy took a look at it and "tweeked" it. Haven't had a problem since. It has not set off my CO detector even after hours of burn.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I heat with a "construction heater" on propane. I also have TWO CO detectors. one is just the alarm type, the other has a readout along with an alarm and detects CO, and hazardous gases. I have burned my heater on the 80k setting for 8 hours continuously inside my very well insulated garage, just raising the display from zero to maybe 25. That is wayyyyy far away from the detectors minimum threshold for alarm (very safe, in other words).
I urge everyone who uses an "un-vented" or open flame type heater to get a CO (carbon monoxide) detector with readout just for peace of mind at least.
The added benefit is that if you work with solvents, paints or on engines and run them inside, it will alert you if the exhaust / vapors becomes an issue.
And, Yes, I've set my CO detectors off from both exhaust and paint fumes! Time to take a break and let it air out.

That's great and everything, but 25 ppm of CO is not an optimal living environment. 51 ppm would be "unlawful" if it was a work environment by OSHA 8-hour standards. Also, your CO detector doesn't tell you what hazardous byproducts of combustion OTHER THAN CO may be present. If your heater is burning clean air, that isn't an issue. But when I used a similar heater in my uninsulated barn I was often using paints or solvents around the heater...and the heater would emit an odor that let me know I was inhaling "something" other than clean air.

Ventless garage heaters are better than freezing your **** off (I mean, hypothermia is NO JOKE EITHER)...but if I had my druthers, I'd much prefer a vented solution.

Phil

 

[laser3kw]

That's great and everything, but 25 ppm of CO is not an optimal living environment.

I don't live in my garage. I may spend 8 hours max, normally 4 to 5 hours.
Normally, my heater, even after running for 5 hours, might raise the reading into the single digits or peak into the low teens - your results may vary.

Also, your CO detector doesn't tell you what hazardous byproducts of combustion OTHER THAN CO may be present.

Agreed.
It does alert to "Gas" as well as CO. I had it go off from spray paint fumes and solvent.
By this admission, even if you are not burning propane indoors, a person still may be inhaling high concentration of "fumes". This may be far more dangerous than <25ppm of CO.
This is where the individual needs to step up and take responsibility and know when they are putting themselves in jeopardy.

That is what this is all about - be aware of you environment and know when to quit.
If my CO goes off (usually when bench testing a small engine), I stop, open the door and air it out. But that is why I have a CO detector. I can know by a visual reading or an alarm if I need to be concerned.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I like it ! Simple and effective !! Add a CO monitor.

 

[laser3kw]

I like it ! Simple and effective !! Add a CO monitor.

Done!

 

[laser3kw]

PS
I just burned my construction heater for 4-1/2 hours today. Inside temp went from 45º to 72º. CO reading went from "0" to 9 ppm.

 

[goodysgotacuda]

I couldn't get past the red hot elements and potential for high CO content in my garage and went to electric.


220v Electric heater from Northern has had my uninsulated [except the door] 2 car garage as high as 80* when it was 35* with it cycling on/off. Couldn't be more pleased with it and no worries leaving it on if I wanted to.