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Smaller Chainsaw?

DawgPaw

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Mar 8, 2014
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USA
I have a Husky 372XP which is awesome, but I would like to get something smaller that I can keep a smaller bar on. I don't want to go tiny though. This would probably be my everyday saw and save the other one for big stuff.

I prefer Husqvarna primarily because I like the local dealer a lot more than the Stihl dealer. Any thoughts before I go look at them?
 
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driz

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May 22, 2008
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Northern NY
I have a Husky 372XP which is awesome, but I would like to get something smaller that I can keep a smaller bar on. I don't want to go tiny though. This would probably be my everyday saw and save the other one for big stuff.



I prefer Husqvarna primarily because I like the local dealer a lot more than the Stihl dealer. Any thoughts before I go look at them?



Stay far away from the husky 141. I had 2 they were junk so I got an echo at HD. Nice saw powerful enough for most things light and reliable.


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ken w.

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Western New York
I have a Echo CS-360 that came with a 16" bar that I put a 14" bar on. It has more power with the smaller bar. The echo runs as smooth as a Husqvarna.
 

bpjr

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Florida east coast
Believe it or not I've had great results with Sears chain saws. On my third one since the late 1970s. They are lightly used overall but have cut a couple dozen or so 24" diameter oaks and pines. Mostly used for big 2"- 3" branches and overgrowth on 1.5 acres. The first saw was dropped and cracked the case after a couple years. The second one had a clutch go (put new springs on the clutch and use it as a backup now) so I bought another about 5 yrs ago and it has run flawlessly.

I bought a tool to adjust the jets to keep lean runs from happening and have always used Bel-Ray MC1 synthetic 2 stroke oil. I hate the new saws that don't have adjustable mixtures...which includes echo and stihl. The only quirks on any of them was replacing fuel hoses and gas filters after running ethanol gas a couple yrs. I've done kits in the carbs a couple of time for general maintenance. Since switching to no ethanol gas no problems. The current Craftsman saws appear to be identical to Poulan Pro saws in every way except color and name.

My son cuts trees for a living and uses small echo saws for one handed use and stilhs for the big stuff. He can't believe how tough the Craftsmans are after seeing what I've cut..
 

mowkep

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Stow, Ohio
I have a Makita DCS 341. Got it years ago at a Sears Hardware on clearance for $60. Been a real good one
 

kwschumm

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Olympia, WA
I've had a Stihl 192T with 16" bar for maybe 5-7 years. Love it. It is an arborist's saw. I have four Stihl saws and this is the one I always reach for first. it's light enough to use all day.
 
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Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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Marengo, Illinois
I have a Echo CS-360 that came with a 16" bar that I put a 14" bar on. It has more power with the smaller bar. The echo runs as smooth as a Husqvarna.

My buddy has one of these, real good starter and smooth runner. Came with a 5 year warranty too.

Our only 16" or smaller saws are all Homelites, Super IIs and the like.
 

CR888

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Feb 19, 2017
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1,198
Get a Husky 550XP. Great compliment to 372XP.
This is the right answer if you want a pro class Husky but smaller (50cc). Make sure you get your dealer to load the latest 'updates' with the computer. These little saws are real performers and have the latest tech. A 15"-18" bar & chain is what they run best.
 

flushcut

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Delavan WI
Get a Husky 550XP. Great compliment to 372XP.

Solid advice!

I have been running the 545 professionally for a year now and love that saw! It came with a 20" when I bought it and the saw pulls smoothly and strongly full bury noodling bur oak. I have a 16" on it now peppy lill *******.
 

Tummler

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Messages
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I purchased a Stihl MS 261 CM a little over a year ago, and I love it. As long as you don't go crazy with bar length, it has plenty of power. I also am a big fan of M-tronic. At first I was sceptical, but it has won me over.
 

deberly12

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Jun 7, 2017
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383
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Lebanon County, PA
Don't get a Craftsman saw....they have gone downhill like everything else Craftsman. I ran the 20 in 50 cc for about 7 years. Very reliable but a little low on power to weight. I wanted something light for climbing so I got the 38 cc Craftsman pro. Runs great till warm then nothing... Now it is discontinued so I don't know what to do with it.

I was in the middle of a big job and neither one would start one day. The Husky dealer had a sale....I now have a husky 465 rancher. Awesome saw and a great price. I can't slow it down. I would still like a smaller saw for climbing.

Are you looking for professional grade (600+) or something more affordable? I like the look of the 545 but haven't used it. It has a very good power to weight ratio for a smaller saw.

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6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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Believe it or not I've had great results with Sears chain saws. On my third one since the late 1970s. They are lightly used overall but have cut a couple dozen or so 24" diameter oaks and pines. Mostly used for big 2"- 3" branches and overgrowth on 1.5 acres. The first saw was dropped and cracked the case after a couple years. The second one had a clutch go (put new springs on the clutch and use it as a backup now) so I bought another about 5 yrs ago and it has run flawlessly.

I bought a tool to adjust the jets to keep lean runs from happening and have always used Bel-Ray MC1 synthetic 2 stroke oil. I hate the new saws that don't have adjustable mixtures...which includes echo and stihl. The only quirks on any of them was replacing fuel hoses and gas filters after running ethanol gas a couple yrs. I've done kits in the carbs a couple of time for general maintenance. Since switching to no ethanol gas no problems. The current Craftsman saws appear to be identical to Poulan Pro saws in every way except color and name.

My son cuts trees for a living and uses small echo saws for one handed use and stilhs for the big stuff. He can't believe how tough the Craftsmans are after seeing what I've cut..
Small world. Poulan is an AYP (Husqvarna) company. Many years ago, before Poulan was bought by Husqvarna, they bought the company that made Craftsman bench grinders. The lamp shade for those old grinders is a working part number in the Husqvarna parts book, today.

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finn

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The UP, God's country
Small world. Poulan is an AYP (Husqvarna) company. Many years ago, before Poulan was bought by Husqvarna, they bought the company that made Craftsman bench grinders. The lamp shade for those old grinders is a working part number in the Husqvarna parts book, today.

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AYP no longer exists. It was dissolved 11 years ago (2006) when Electrolux spun off Husqvarna into a new, independent company, whose primary products are lawn and forestry equipment.

The only place you will see reference to AYP is old parts listings. Husqvarna owns the former AYP facilities, specifically the manufacturing plant in Orangeburg, SC.
 

kmacht

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Connecticut
I'll 3rd the echo cs 360. I originally bought a 590 and it is great for dropping trees and bucking but was way too heavy to cut the limbs and brush off once the tree was on the ground. The 360 is only 8 lbs and has tons of power. If you do a muffler mod it really wakes up the saw. Home Depot carries it but if you check online there are usually dealer days during the summer where you get 20% off when buying from the dealer. Finally, get a decent chain for it the one that comes with the saw tends to bounce and vibrate a lot. I put a Stijl chain on the echo and it improved it a lot.

Keith
 

4Kings

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Nov 2, 2010
Messages
263
Location
Southwest Missouri
Get a Husky 550XP. Great compliment to 372XP.

I'm a Stihl guy, 026 & 361 but I cut with some guys who have Husqvarna's. Specifically 346XP which I believe the 550XP is it's replacement. I've used the 346XP with a 16" bar and it just screams. I've heard through my friends that the 346XP is still out there on some dealers dusty shelves. Might be able to find one at a good price.
 

TNBurban

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Jun 12, 2007
Messages
106
I just bought a Tanaka top handle 14" for $235. Nice to use when limbing. Save the Husky 18" for bucking.
 
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Fcvapor05

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Make sure you get your dealer to load the latest 'updates' with the computer. These little saws are real performers and have the latest tech. A 15"-18" bar & chain is what they run best.

Computer updates to a chainsaw?

Are you telling me they are electronically controlled?
 

Blk88GT

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Mar 16, 2009
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Manitoba
I've got a 291 and a 170, both work great. The 291 has a 20" bar and does everything I need it to. I won the 170 at a fundraiser, it's a great little saw for limbing and quick trim jobs, but the 291 gets the nod for bucking. I have large poplars and old oaks on my property.
 

4Kings

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Southwest Missouri
What do you guys think of the top handle saws...I have never used one?

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The top handled saws are designed for "in tree" use, think professional arborist, guys trained to climb. Wouldn't be good for general cleanup or firewood bucking IMO.
 

deberly12

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Jun 7, 2017
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Lebanon County, PA
Well I do climb ( 150...or so hours of climb time so still a hobby) but I haven't gotten the opportunity to cut in tree. The guy that trained me hated top handles even in tree. He just tied his lanyard to the back handle. What I want is something to climb with and top out trees on the ground..... basically whenever my 465 rancher is too heavy

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kwschumm

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Olympia, WA
The top handled saws are designed for "in tree" use, think professional arborist, guys trained to climb. Wouldn't be good for general cleanup or firewood bucking IMO.

I'm not an arborist, don't climb trees, and love my top handled saw. It is great for firewood and excellent for limbing. Sure, it won't buck a huge tree but it will buck most of the firs up to 12" around here.To each their own.
 

deberly12

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My concern is they are balanced for one handed use but tell you never to use them one handed. I think they would feel funny with a 2 hand grip.

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kwschumm

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My concern is they are balanced for one handed use but tell you never to use them one handed. I think they would feel funny with a 2 hand grip.

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Yep, and I use it all the time one handed which is what I like about it. Just gotta be careful. I chalk up the "never use one handed" directive as a liability thing. Sort of like "always keep both hands on the wheel". Yes, it is dangerous. So are chainsaws in general.
 

Davefr

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OR
Computer updates to a chainsaw?

Are you telling me they are electronically controlled?

Yes, computer controlled fuel management was one of the greatest improvements in automotive technology.

I was skeptical at first, but see no reason why it wouldn't be a major improvement in 2 cycle engines. The previous EPA saws suffer from lean running, non adjustable carbs, temperamental at different altitudes, etc.

Computer controlled fuel management has improved these issues.

So far the Husky X-Torq and Stihl M-Tronic designs are getting some very positive reviews.

I have the 550XP and love it so far.
 

zak77

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Monson, MA
I just bought a Tanaka top handle 14" for $235. Nice to use when limbing. Save the Husky 18" for bucking.

I got the Tanaka w/12" bar and so far it's working pretty good. I wanted something i could use one handed for trimming and other small jobs. I also have a Husky 350 w/18" for bucking which gets heavy using it one-handed. I got an electric pole saw from HF and a 16' Fiskar manual trimmer for high jobs.
 

deberly12

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I know a lot of people that use them one handed but it is very dangerous. Not just cutting of your other hand. If you have ever had a saw really kick back you will get it. I had a friend with many years of cutting experience have something freaky happen. The saw kicked so hard that it went over his head and flew 20 feet behind him. If he had not had his elbows locked or he was using it one handed he would be dead. Kickback is nothing to mess with.

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PBCampbell

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Feb 2, 2009
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WV
I have a Husky 372XP which is awesome, but I would like to get something smaller that I can keep a smaller bar on. I don't want to go tiny though. This would probably be my everyday saw and save the other one for big stuff.

I prefer Husqvarna primarily because I like the local dealer a lot more than the Stihl dealer. Any thoughts before I go look at them?

Seems alot of replies have little to do with the OP's question.

I agree with those who recommended a 50cc saw though.
 
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D

DawgPaw

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USA
Seems alot of replies have little to do with the OP's question.

I agree with those who recommended a 50cc saw though.

Haha thanks, but such is the way of chainsaw threads. I kind of figured that the 550XP was the way to go, but it is good to hear from people who have used that same setup.
 

Tummler

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Haha thanks, but such is the way of chainsaw threads. I kind of figured that the 550XP was the way to go, but it is good to hear from people who have used that same setup.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have an MS 261 CM (Stihl's pro 50 cc) and with a 16 in bar, it is easily my go to saw for 90% of my needs. I went with it over the 550xp because I grew up with Stihl saws, and I have a slight preference for how the 261 handles relative to 550. I would say the 550 runs faster than the Stihl, and the Stihl is a little torquier, but either saw can should be able to go through whatever you throw at it like warm butter, assuming the saw has an 18 in bar or less. The 261 does get a little front heavy with a 20 in bar. You can find endless discussions comparing these saws on Arboristsite and similar forums.

As others have noted, the second generation electronic du management with these saws is truly awesome, though I have never had a problem with mine.
 

driz

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Northern NY
I know a lot of people that use them one handed but it is very dangerous. Not just cutting of your other hand. If you have ever had a saw really kick back you will get it. I had a friend with many years of cutting experience have something freaky happen. The saw kicked so hard that it went over his head and flew 20 feet behind him. If he had not had his elbows locked or he was using it one handed he would be dead. Kickback is nothing to mess with.

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A very good reason to own a wimpy saw for those kinds of jobs. Personally I won't one hand any chain saw but I'm a chickenshit when it comes to the fancy cutting and climbing.
 

deberly12

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Usually true but not always.

I was trying to nibble out enough to get a wedge under a tree that had settled down on its self. My bucking saw was grabbing to much and bouncing all around. I grabbed my limbing saw and I could hold the tip on just the right place and let it chew out what I needed.

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