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Smart switches for garage lights?

BenderBot

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Just rebuilt my garage, added insulation, drywall and new lighting. Lights are 50w LED fixtures x9 all wired to the original switch.

I want to use a Z-wave light for these lights so I can turn them on when I walk into the garage (motion sensor) and turn them off after x time or at x time of day so I dont leave them on.

Problem is they are 450w total and most switches can't handle that amount of current. The are wired as shown. Into the center strip then out to the left and right sides. Does anyone have suggestions for a Z-Wave switch that works with this many LEDs or a per-fixture solution that would work for my setup?

PcUTEBK.png
 
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BenderBot

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Apparently I can't post links yet... Found at Home Depot
Commercial-Electric-1-ft-x-4-ft-50-Watt-White-Integrated-LED-Edge-Lit-Flat-Panel-Flush-Mount-Wraparound-Troffer-74031
 

rlitman

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Split it across two switches, and configure your system to treat the room in a way that the switches work together.
 
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BenderBot

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Split it across two switches, and configure your system to treat the room in a way that the switches work together.

Unfortunately it's too late to split the load across two switches. I didn't open up the wall/ceiling where the switches were run so I used the existing switch and power run to it to chain the other lights from. Power goes from the ceiling into the switch then back up and out to the lights. I was considering doing this for ascetic reasons but decided it wasn't worth the effort. Most switches can easily handle the 450w (~4A) but apparently the smart switches which use internal relays cannot.
 

Git

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I don't see a diagram?

I have several of these switches that have worked great, if your looking for just a switch. They can handle up to a 15 amp load.

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BenderBot

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I don't see a diagram?

I have several of these switches that have worked great, if your looking for just a switch. They can handle up to a 15 amp load.

attachment.php
Diagram linked via Imgur and stopped working, should be working now.

I have the dimmer version of that switch and many of the Zooz switches. The GE says 1800w max, 960 incandescent, but don't mention LED. Zooz mentions LED and says 150w max. Unclear if this is safe or not.
 

Stuart in MN

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I don't see the specs, so I'll just say to be careful. Switches will have a significantly lower load rating for LED than they will for incandescent lighting.

Good point. While the Home Depot ad indicates it can handle higher LED loads, I looked up the factory installation manual and that information seemed to be absent.
 
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cybrdyke

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The GE Zwave switches mentioned above have a 150w max rating for LED sources.
Features
ALEXA COMPATIBLE - REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to Echo Plus).
Wirelessly schedule, control and adjust the brightness of any dimmable wall or ceiling light - control from anywhere, at any time with any mobile device. Supported voltage - 120 VAC. Wireless Range: Up to 150 feet
SPACE-SAVING HOUSING DESIGN –Improved components reduced the housing depth by up to 20 percent compared to previous Z-Wave models and eliminated the need for heat tabs.
Quick Fit enhancements are the ideal smart solution for older-style switch boxes, multi-gang configurations or any other application with limited space.
EASY INSTALLATION WITH SIMPLE WIRE – Auto line-load sensing terminals support fast and easy installation by detecting line and load wires and configuring the dimmer accordingly.
Dual ground ports, which are offset to avoid switch box mounting screws, support daisy-chaining in multi-switch setups.
REQUIRES A Z-WAVE CERTIFIED GATEWAY - Compatible with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Wink, ADT Pulse, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera, Connect and Iris.
INSTALLATION & USAGE - Requires in-wall installation with hard-wired connections - Neutral wire REQUIRED. Includes white and light almond paddles (wall plate not included).
For use with dimmable LED, CFL, incandescent and halogen bulbs. Supported wattage - 600W Incandescent, 150W CFL/LED. It must be connected to a supported hub in order to interact with the Amazon Alexa.


You can also look into Casetawireless.com
CD
 

rlitman

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This isn't a solution for you, but this is what you are fighting:
https://www.ametherm.com/blog/inrush-current/inrush-current-protection-led-lighting-retrofits/

There are options, none of them easy.

I ran into the same problem with my smart switch plans. I gave up and put in old-fashioned dumb switches.

The NTC thermistors they sell are actually commonly used in all sorts of modern appliances. Flat screen televisions now use them to limit inrush current for example. I would imagine that LED lighting is a good application for them too, though they would limit power efficiency, so maybe that's why they're not used much there.

Inrush protection however does not change the high harmonic current used by LED drivers, which causes contact arcing upon disconnection (in much the same way as motor loads), which calls for derating switch capacity.
 

checkthisout

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OP, use a non-dimming switch. Only the dimmable stuff has low amp limits for obvious reasons.
 

Git

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The GE Zwave switches mentioned above have a 150w max rating for LED sources.

The switch I mentioned is the GE 12722 SWITCH (not a dimmer) and can be used to control these different devices and has a 15 amp rating.

attachment.php




From googling the text you posted, it looks like copied that from a GE 14295 DIMMER switch. Please correct me if I am wrong...
 

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MJK

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I use the LiftMaster switches for inside / outside garage lights and have them programmed to activate when my door moves or the motion sensor on its wall control is triggered. Works pretty well except for when it times out, but then i just turn it on manually.
 

ard

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just picked up a homeseer HS-WS100+ on my desk, rated at 1800W resistive but only 200 LED.

FWIW, I use these to control pump motors, just wire a contactor in the circuit. pop it into a nema box up in the attic/crawlspace
 
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BenderBot

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I was able to find a Levitron 1,000w switch that can handle a max of 450w LED load and installed it last night successfully.
 
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