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SmartSide panel install

davidfite1978

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Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
94
Location
Kentucky
Those that have installed SmartSide panels, I would love to hear your comments.

I've ordered my panels and will hopefully start installing this weekend. I have a couple of questions about how you guys think I should install though. My previous garage used SmartSide panels, but the walls were 8ft high, so I didn't have any seams. I'm going to have at least 1 seam (shortest wall is 9ft), and maybe 2 seams on the big walls. The manufacturer's instructions say to use z-flashing on the horizontal seams. My wife is worried about the "look" of the garage with those visible horizontal lines. That being said, here's my questions...

1.Regardless of voiding the warranty, would it be possible to just caulk those horizontal joints heavily and put a good thick coat of paint over them and get it sealed up good?

2.If I DO use the z-flashing, how does that work on the corners? How do you transition into the corner (inner or outer) without there being a point of heavy caulking or something? I can't see an easy way to make that transition without messing up the intended point of using z-flashing on the horizontal seam, and corner mold on the corners. If there ISN'T a good way to transition without heavy caulking or something, then does that mean my answer to number 1 should be yes, I can just caulk it, because it's no different than the weak/caulking points at the corners when using z-flashing?

3.Also, my windows are the new construction type with built in J channels for siding. I think there's going to be a gap between the face of the smartside and the lip of the window. Should I just fill all that in with caulk, or cut down a board and slide in their and seal it in good or what? I don't want water coming down and getting in behind the smartside at the bottom of the window.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 
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BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
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Beautiful Southern Maryland
David,
Cant help you on the current construction but I am curious as to how the Smartside panels held up on your old garage.

One think possible, I think that Smartside panels are available in longer lengths ? Dont know how hard it is to get though.
 

readhead

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Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,175
Location
Durango, Co.
You can order longer lengths. I have it on my house, shop and shed and I caulked the seams. I don't like the look of the Z flashing. I did put solid backing at the joints and ran a bead of caulk to set the upper sheet into. I held the top sheet up about 1/16" so all the caulk didn't squeeze out.
 
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davidfite1978

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Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
94
Location
Kentucky
I couldn't find any local lumber places that could order the 9' lengths. Closest was 90 minutes away. Either way, the panels are already ordered so it's moot at this point. Just want to figure out my install plan before I get started.

You can order longer lengths. I have it on my house, shop and shed and I caulked the seams. I don't like the look of the Z flashing. I did put solid backing at the joints and ran a bead of caulk to set the upper sheet into. I held the top sheet up about 1/16" so all the caulk didn't squeeze out.

How long have you had it installed? Any problems with the seams?

My old garage is now about 4-5 years old and it looks perfect (I can see it from the road when I drive by). The trim is moldy (I used wood instead of PVC, won't do that again), but the smartside is in perfect shape still, and it was installed over 24" studs (no OSB or housewrap).
 

BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
Messages
9,299
Location
Beautiful Southern Maryland
Dave,
Are you going to put the joint up at the top, or down low ? Might look better down near the bottom ? Or maybe some type of solid band board all the way around the bottom, then the Smartpanel above that ?
Just thinking out loud :)
 

readhead

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Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,175
Location
Durango, Co.
Stuff on the house is 7 years old and the shop has some older Masonite siding on part of it that was installed the same way and it is 17 years old. No cracks or leaks. I keep up with the paint.
 
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davidfite1978

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Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
94
Location
Kentucky
Well 1 seam or 2 is part of my dilemma. I would like to just start at the lowest point and work my way up, which would mean just 1 seam, but that would put the seam in a visually awkward spot. If I hang the 8 foot pieces right at "wall" height, then I'll have a foot below and about 6-7 feet above for the gable. That would be the best "look" I think. My budget is about maxed out so I doubt I really want to try and find another board to put at the bottom (although that is a good idea).
 

readhead

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Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,175
Location
Durango, Co.
The seams are 8' up on my buildings and I don't even see them anymore.
Are you using the grooved material or the flat with battens?
I have batts on mine and that lessens the visual impact.
 
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Joined
Apr 3, 2014
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8
Location
Houston, Texas
Those that have installed SmartSide panels, I would love to hear your comments.

I've ordered my panels and will hopefully start installing this weekend. I have a couple of questions about how you guys think I should install though. My previous garage used SmartSide panels, but the walls were 8ft high, so I didn't have any seams. I'm going to have at least 1 seam (shortest wall is 9ft), and maybe 2 seams on the big walls. The manufacturer's instructions say to use z-flashing on the horizontal seams. My wife is worried about the "look" of the garage with those visible horizontal lines. That being said, here's my questions...

1.Regardless of voiding the warranty, would it be possible to just caulk those horizontal joints heavily and put a good thick coat of paint over them and get it sealed up good?

2.If I DO use the z-flashing, how does that work on the corners? How do you transition into the corner (inner or outer) without there being a point of heavy caulking or something? I can't see an easy way to make that transition without messing up the intended point of using z-flashing on the horizontal seam, and corner mold on the corners. If there ISN'T a good way to transition without heavy caulking or something, then does that mean my answer to number 1 should be yes, I can just caulk it, because it's no different than the weak/caulking points at the corners when using z-flashing?

3.Also, my windows are the new construction type with built in J channels for siding. I think there's going to be a gap between the face of the smartside and the lip of the window. Should I just fill all that in with caulk, or cut down a board and slide in their and seal it in good or what? I don't want water coming down and getting in behind the smartside at the bottom of the window.

Hopefully that makes sense.
My company Texas Home Exteriors just did a SmartSide panel job in Kingwood TX and some walls were 10' tall. You can order the panels 9' and 10' if you would like no seams. If you are going to have one keep them as close to the top as possible under a soffit so it is exposed to the least amount of rainwater. The Z flash is a great method, you will be putting the 1"X4" or any trim over the panels and Z flash when you come to any corner. The "J" situation with the windows I would stack it stair stack the Smart Trim over that instead of caulk. I hope this helps, Greg Kapitan (the siding man)
 

cyndiw

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Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
1
Where can I purchase 4x8x8 smart side siding in Florida and how much? We are redoing an old farm house and the barn has this product on it and it looks great. Help with this is greatly appreciated.
 

BillK

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Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
9,299
Location
Beautiful Southern Maryland
Where can I purchase 4x8x8 smart side siding

Home Depot has it here in Maryland but they only carry the thinest thickness, 3/8" You have to be careful because I don't think that the 3/8 is rated for shear wall use unless it is applied over more sheathing. I am having trouble finding someplace to get the thicker sheets without special ordering an entire pallet of it :( I am probably going to go back with regular plywood T-111 because of the availability.
 

brass89

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Joined
Sep 15, 2014
Messages
240
true - good point, which is why i posted the install instructions from lp regarding the 3/8 38 series paneling (4x8). hopefully it clears up any confusion, so long as it's a warranted product probably best to follow their install guides.
 
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