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Snap On 2 Drawer Mid-section - budget refurb advice

nia573

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Joined
Mar 18, 2006
Messages
77
Location
Wales
Ive picked up this 2 drawer Snap On mid section for a budget refurb project for myself. I know it’s a bit rusty, has a lock but no key, but its solid, quite straight (compared to some Ive seen) & best of all it was quite cheap (for a Snap On). Ill get the model number tomorrow





My plans are to dissasemble it, sand down the rust & etch prime it & rattle can the exterior to make it presentable. Any advice about removing the drawers from the sliders (friction type) & is it advisable to remove the aluminium drawer trims, or are they best left alone? Just thinking that they might be easily damaged when removed, or perhaps not fit correctly when re-fitted?

I did notice that the bottom drawer sometimes is v difficult to open from the fully shut position. The top slides open ok. If I held the box vertically on its end end the bottom drawer then opened fine, so it might be a case of a stiff or temperamental slider on one side?? I aim to fully remove the sliders & soak them in some diesel perhaps to clean before fully lubricating them

Additionally Ive just noticed that the bottom edge of the carcass is slightly bowed up (Ill get photos & measurements up tomorrow). Id say its perhaps bowed perhaps 4 to 5mm max at its highest point, so that the very bottom of the lower drawer is almost touching the inside of the lower frame? I was thinking I could remove the drawers, clamp a length of RHS along the top to reinforce it, then use a spreader clamp or small bottle jack to gently open the letterbox aperture? Sound like a plan?

Like I say Ill get some pics up tomorrow but any guidance & advice will be welcomed since this is my first toolbox refurb!
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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Should be a KRA428. As long as the bottom of the drawers isn't stretched it should be no problem to refurb. Even if they are stretched, possible but it becomes quite a bit more difficult. Start by taking it down to pieces and check everything over.

Yes, a few small pads of wood, a good C clamp and a solid, straight bar is a good way to straighten the chassis with a 3 point bending arrangement.

The drawer trim can be difficult to remove as they are crimped on. If you plan on a full repaint, you will want to remove them, but if you are just cleaning, I'd leave them be.

Luckily on those you can just use your fingernail or a small flat blade screwdriver to unlatch the friction slide catch.
 
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nia573

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Mar 18, 2006
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Wales
Well I stripped it down today. Its a KRA 429F from the marking on the body
I removed the drawers & taken the side handles off. Also removed the logo from the bottom drawer












Spent the afternoon with a flapdisc on an angle grinder & got to work on the rust areas. This evening I gave all the bare areas a coat of acid etch primer
As can be seen from the photos it was in quite a poor state but is looking a lot better now that the corrosion has been removed. Ill take the box to work on monday & see if I can borrow some steel & clamps to straighten the bottom of the carcass

I still havent looked at the runners/sliders, just removed them & put them to one side. Whats the best course of action for these? Soak in petrol/diesel or perhaps de-greaser, followed by re-oiling or lithium grease?

I was surprised to see inner locking flat at the rear of the box. It seems to work ok, but I did notice that at the rear of the bottom wider drawer theres 2 protruding 90 degree flat bars on each side (well one is at right angles & the other is at about 70 degrees) Ill get photos tomorrow.
Im thinking that these tabs may somehow have been causing the problems with the bottom drawer catching & being difficult to open. Ill have to investigate this tomorrow

Ill post up some photos tomorrow of it in its current state (I was too busy sanding & spraying this afternoon)
 
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nia573

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Rained all day today so didnt get any paint on the drawers.
I did get the box straightened though, after a few ideas with clamps & wooden blocks etc :)
The initial idea of using a sash clamp as a spreader didnt work too well as I didnt have any steel sections to brace the top correctly, so when the bottom did straighten under pressure, the top tended to bow slightly too

Then dad had the idea of laying it upside down on the floor, with my feet in the opening to hold it down, & I then held the top lip of the opening. Then like a weightlifter I pulled it upwards - & it worked a treat!


Heres the tab at the rear of the drawer that I mentioned

The other side is at right angles

so Ive straightened it out now

Some general pics of the drawers in primer

Bottom drawer:


Top Drawer:


& the main outer body;




Ive also cleaned up the runners the best I can using a wire brush & wire wool

Part no on the runners are 8-570


Ive also cleaned up the badge with wire wool too
Hopefully I can get a coat of paint on this week if the weather holds up
 

zkling

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Interesting, I wonder if someone swapped drawers or if the two drawer unit was an option? Traditionally the 429 was a 3 drawer box (which is why it has 3 sets of runners inside) where as the 428 was the 2 drawer version.

Looks like you are doing it up right. :thumbup:
 
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nia573

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Mar 18, 2006
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Wales
Thanks! I have seen a few 3 drawer mid sections for sale but theyve all been in the £125 to £200 price range. This one was £45 so I snapped it up

Is it a straightforward swap to change to ball bearing runners? Any part no's I could google?
 
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nia573

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Mar 18, 2006
Messages
77
Location
Wales
Well we finally had a few days of nice weather so I managed to get some paint onto the toolbox.
I used 2 aerosol cans of Plastikote gloss red on top of the Tetrosyl etch primer, & Im reasonably pleased with the results. It looks a lot tidier & Ive finally got a couple of extra drawers for my expanding tool collection



This was a simple clean it up & make it look presentable project. I was contemplating getting it shot blasted, then sprayed professionally by someone I know, but that would have added to the cost. The box is going to be kept in a corner of my garage so will be perfectly adequate for my needs. If I was working in a garage day in & day out then Id want a top quality finish


In hindsight I should have spent more time flatting & prepping the surface after the primer coat, & perhaps using a skim of filler on the surface imperfections where the main rust areas were, but its ok for now

2 drawers painted




Handles:


Primer & Paint used:


Main body:


Drawers with badge


All assembled






Added a rubber mat to the inside of the drawers


Added a ribbed mat to the top





It tool quite a bit longer than expected but its been an enjoyable project that’s given a new lease of life to a solid box
Now I just need to organise my tools & fill it up:thumbup:
 
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