Are the older 936 ratchets rated to 700lbs also?
...EZDUZIT duzzent gettit. I've probably been wrenching longer than he has...
I've never seen any official Snap On literature indicating such, so I'd have to say no. Dual 80 has a lot of teeth engaged and reacting load. It really is a better system, not just hype.
The other advantage is half the required motion to get to the next click. With a short ratchet, 60 teeth, 80 teeth, doesn't much matter in swing room. The difference is a fraction of an inch. With a 25" ratchet, the difference is over 2". A 936 needs over 4" to get to the next ratchet tooth. A Dual 80 (SHLF80A) needs just less than 2".
As for breakers, how do you guys turn an engine to align timing marks? I put this ratchet on the crank pulley and ratchet the engine around. Should be able to check crank angle sensors like this with a DMM.
EZDUZIT duzzent gettit. I've probably been wrenching longer than he has. In the old days we used breakers and 12pt sockets (so we could position the breaker more advantageously) because the ratchets weren't as strong as breakers. When you broke your ratchet, even the guy at Sears would raise his bushy eyebrow and ask how long the pipe was that you used. The inference was clear: using a ratchet to crack stuff free was improper use of the tool. It was wasteful. The breaker was the "right tool".
That was over 10 years ago. The new ratchets (Snap On isn't the only one) are as strong as breaker bars. I consider breaker bars now obsolete. Also, I would only ever use a 12pt socket for a 12point bolt. In the old days, we had them to facilitate breaker usage. That question comes up from time to time because Sears and others still have 12points as part of their standard sets and guys here want to know why. Rarely do we get the answer right: 12pts were used with breaker bars to help put the bar where we needed it to be to crack stuff free.
I was recently doing a shade tree brake job on a land rover. I was swapping rotors. The caliper bolts are real cad plated high strength bolts, torqued to 300Nm (250-ishftlbs). I couldn't squeeze my gun behind the wheel (for a stupid reason not worth discussing) so I had to ratchet those bolts out. and they were stiff the whole way out because they were high quality bolts in tight holes and slightly corroded. That SHLF80A saved my ***. Especially as I get older, or at the end of a long day, I appreciate my long handled tools.

I use a 40" from Grip(grand rapids industrial). Same as the Titan. It's under $50What are you guys using for 36" 3/4" breakers?
Tools in the UK are so expensive, I can see why you would recommend this. I think Snap On stuff is more pounds than dollars. I bought my SHLF80 here on GJ for the equivalent of £65.If you need a really long flex head ratchet you can just buy a ratchet adapter
for your breaker bar like this one for 10% of the cost... It wont be as strong
but you can break the fastener loose with your breaker bar and then put on
the adapter if the fastener wont just spin out.
Also... you have never "needed" 12 point sockets to help get a good angle
on a fastener with a breaker bar... If you cant get a six point socket on it
because of the 60 degree change, just remove the socket from the breaker
bar turn it one quater of a turn (90 degrees) and put it back on the breaker bar.
When you place it back on the fastener it will look like it's moved 30 degrees
just like a 12 point socket. [emoji106]
Oh it wasn't so much a recommendation... More just an alternative for other viewers who happen to read this thread and didn't want to spend, or couldn't afford, the money for the Snappy.Tools in the UK are so expensive, I can see why you would recommend this. I think Snap On stuff is more pounds than dollars. I bought my SHLF80 here on GJ for the equivalent of £65.
What are you guys using for 36" 3/4" breakers?
Young guys just coming into the field don't seem to know any better. Perhaps they didn't have anyone to show them the ropes. And so don't know to use a breaker bar instead of an unwieldy 24" ratchet.

Do you have asperger's?I've never seen any official Snap On literature indicating such, so I'd have to say no. Dual 80 has a lot of teeth engaged and reacting load. It really is a better system, not just hype.
The other advantage is half the required motion to get to the next click. With a short ratchet, 60 teeth, 80 teeth, doesn't much matter in swing room. The difference is a fraction of an inch. With a 25" ratchet, the difference is over 2". A 936 needs over 4" to get to the next ratchet tooth. A Dual 80 (SHLF80A) needs just less than 2".
As for breakers, how do you guys turn an engine to align timing marks? I put this ratchet on the crank pulley and ratchet the engine around. Should be able to check crank angle sensors like this with a DMM.
EZDUZIT duzzent gettit. I've probably been wrenching longer than he has. In the old days we used breakers and 12pt sockets (so we could position the breaker more advantageously) because the ratchets weren't as strong as breakers. When you broke your ratchet, even the guy at Sears would raise his bushy eyebrow and ask how long the pipe was that you used. The inference was clear: using a ratchet to crack stuff free was improper use of the tool. It was wasteful. The breaker was the "right tool".
That was over 10 years ago. The new ratchets (Snap On isn't the only one) are as strong as breaker bars. I consider breaker bars now obsolete. Also, I would only ever use a 12pt socket for a 12point bolt. In the old days, we had them to facilitate breaker usage. That question comes up from time to time because Sears and others still have 12points as part of their standard sets and guys here want to know why. Rarely do we get the answer right: 12pts were used with breaker bars to help put the bar where we needed it to be to crack stuff free.
I was recently doing a shade tree brake job on a land rover. I was swapping rotors. The caliper bolts are real cad plated high strength bolts, torqued to 300Nm (250-ishftlbs). I couldn't squeeze my gun behind the wheel (for a stupid reason not worth discussing) so I had to ratchet those bolts out. and they were stiff the whole way out because they were high quality bolts in tight holes and slightly corroded. That SHLF80A saved my ***. Especially as I get older, or at the end of a long day, I appreciate my long handled tools.
Do you have asperger's?
I use mine for tractor lugs, stuff like that. I've actually got one that's closer to 48". Sounds like overkill I know. But it's came in handy more often that I thought. Some of the equipment I work on is old rusted stuff or even something newer that has a fitting that's never been touched from the factory. High torque situations. Also, keeps from sticking a cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar & risking blowing the end to pieces.
the 24'' 1/2 drive Snappy ratchet was one of the best tools i have bought more useful then i could have ever imagined. Would not say Snappy (its sooo buttery) is a must but a 2' ratchet comes highly recommended.
Modern ratchets have the same weak spot as breaker bars, the flex joint. I you think a breaker bar is stronger than a ratchet you're a fool. As far as lugs go, do you not have an impact? Impact wins over a breaker or ratchet if it fits.
Glad you guys like the ratchet I designed, it still works great for me and I have only had one failure with it, the pawl inside broke an ear. I came up with the idea when I rung off the end of a breaker bar and threw it in the drawer on top of a flex head and the openings for the heads lined up. It took about 6 months of bugging the snappy guy before it showed upand he sold a dozen or so when guys seen mine on the truck. If you are wondering why I didn't just build one from the ratchet/breaker bar its because snappy wouldn't have warrantied it. Also it wasn't free (been nice) but deeply ''discounted'' and I use the snot out of it since I'm not as young as I used to be.
Nope. That may have been true once.
The flex on either a breaker or a flex head ratchet is now stronger than the square drive in shear. Only trick is maintaining the manufacturers' recommended torque spec on the flex joints screw. The flex should be difficult to move. If the head is floppy, that can lead to failure of the flex joint.
BTW, the last test I saw had several makers' ratchets failing at the drive and not the ratchet. This isn't just a Snap On selling point.
It would have to be less. Honestly don't know why they even make a quick release for a ratchet that big
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Really? Never stuck a ratchet your hand doesn't really fit, wiggle the socket on a crusty fastener, do what needs doing then go to pull it back out and have the socket pop off? Quick release doesn't have this problem.
I use mine for tractor lugs, stuff like that. I've actually got one that's closer to 48". Sounds like overkill I know. But it's came in handy more often that I thought. Some of the equipment I work on is old rusted stuff or even something newer that has a fitting that's never been touched from the factory. High torque situations. Also, keeps from sticking a cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar & risking blowing the end to pieces.
Actually, what I meant was, what brand are you folks using for 34" breaker bars?
I understand the utility, but the industrial brands I use primarily don't seem to offer anything longer than 20"-24".
Actually, what I meant was, what brand are you folks using for 34" breaker bars?
I understand the utility, but the industrial brands I use primarily don't seem to offer anything longer than 20"-24".
So I'm thinking you don't have any qualms over choosing a Snap-on 1/2 25" QR over a non QR if you can only choose one?
I'm thinkin the QR's of today are much much stronger than the ones of 10 even 5 years ago as well.
So I'm thinking you don't have any qualms over choosing a Snap-on 1/2 25" QR over a non QR if you can only choose one?
I'm thinkin the QR's of today are much much stronger than the ones of 10 even 5 years ago as well.
