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Snap-on crowfoot - FAIL

Hiball

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Without convenient access to a tool truck, my search led me to this thread for the Snap-on return policies, and this direct link to Snap-on's website.

On the second link, it states:

To obtain warranty service contact the Snap-on Customer Care Center via telephone at 1-877-762-7664 or e-mail [email protected]. The following information will be required with the customer’s warranty request: (1) date and proof of purchase, (2) where customer purchased the product, (3) full name, (4) shipping address, (5) phone number, (6) e-mail address, (7) item number(s) or approximate weight of return package.

Anybody have any "first-hand" experience trying to warranty a "second-hand" Snap-on tool without going through a vendor?

I believe Just about Every Warranty out there has the Same Lingo in there Warranty Policy.

Call/Send Customer Service a Email Explaining your Sitsuation and id be willing to bet they will send you one out in the Mail. I doubt they will even make you send the Defective one back.
 
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Lomotil

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I believe Just about Every Warranty out there has the Same Lingo in there Warranty Policy.

Call/Send Customer Service a Email Explaining your Sitsuation and id be willing to bet they will send you one out in the Mail. I doubt they will even make you send the Defective one back.

Thanks for the suggestion... I will try this. :)
 

Knuckle Buster

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Thats Fine... I have tons of OLD tools that are still Operational, But to Be fair im sure the OP would admit to exceeding the 8.75 ftlbs (<--- Thats a Crazy Number IMO) I would have thought it would have been good for more. If you took your 50 Year old Proto ratchet and exposed it to 400 ftlbs and they broke would you blame the tool or the operator? :D

Well, I'll be honest. If I put 400 ftlbs of torque on them I couldn't blame the ratchets. I'd have blame myself for using a cheater pipe on a ratchet rather than grabbing a proper lenth breaker bar. I might scream about a socket though... busted knuckles can hurt like a ***** if you've ever broken a knuckle in the process. Thats one reason I decided to invest & use air tools where ever I can on the most stubborn stuff. I was younger, didn't want to be a lightweight and give in.. or spend the money, lol. Today I look back and say it was money well spent. :D
 

Hiball

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Well, I'll be honest. If I put 400 ftlbs of torque on them I couldn't blame the ratchets. I'd have blame myself for using a cheater pipe on a ratchet rather than grabbing a proper lenth breaker bar. I might scream about a socket though... busted knuckles can hurt like a ***** if you've ever broken a knuckle in the process. Thats one reason I decided to invest & use air tools where ever I can on the most stubborn stuff. I was younger, didn't want to be a lightweight and give in.. or spend the money, lol. Today I look back and say it was money well spent. :D

Of Course you couldnt, I was just trying to make the Correlation between your Old Ratchets and the OP's Older Crowfoot. Regardless if the Tool is Old or New, Snap on or HF they will fail if you exceed there Limits (Eventually). I dont use alot of Air tools but i did manage Wedge my hand in between the Bumper and a 3/8" Drive Air Ratchet the other day when i was installing a Receiver hitch. It was my Own stupid Fault, I just wasnt paying attention.
 
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The atoms inside that crowsfoot are worn out. Think about how many revolutions the electrons have made around the nucleus since 1964...
 

Knuckle Buster

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Of Course you couldnt, I was just trying to make the Correlation between your Old Ratchets and the OP's Older Crowfoot. Regardless if the Tool is Old or New, Snap on or HF they will fail if you exceed there Limits (Eventually). I dont use alot of Air tools but i did manage Wedge my hand in between the Bumper and a 3/8" Drive Air Ratchet the other day when i was installing a Receiver hitch. It was my Own stupid Fault, I just wasnt paying attention.

Have you had the chance to try out an IR Hammerhead? It's about like an air ratchet except it's reactionless. I used one at a shop I worked at when the boss grinned and handed me one to try out. I used his a few times ( and loved it ), but never could justify spending the price for one. But now I'm thinking that will be my next buy. I guess age sorta changes ones mind about which tools to use once the wrists are giving out. :bowdown:
 
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Lomotil

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The atoms inside that crowsfoot are worn out. Think about how many revolutions the electrons have made around the nucleus since 1964...

:lol:

I have to post the amazingly prompt reply my email generated:

Thank you for contacting the Customer Care Center; your request has been received and will be processed within our service level of 2 hours. If you should need to contact us regarding this request, please refer to the Interaction ID number in the subject line. Note: Rock N Roll requests will be processed within our service level of 4 hours.

Either I'm missing out on an ongoing promotion/joke, or there's an actual person replying to these emails with a Hell of a sense of humor! :D
 

Your Father

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Using an open end crowfoot or open end wrench to break loose a fastener... LOL. Snap On can't doesn't warranty a lack of common sense.
 
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buffalobill

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yep, there ya go! maybe use some of those to break stuff loose, then use the regular open end ones to spin it off faster. or not, if your torque adapter is a 12 pt, than it will be just as fast....
 

junk4dummies

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I wouldn't panic and melt down all of your snap on tools yet. The crowfoot is from 1964. If you bought it used the previous owner might have abused it or the metal just fatigued to the point of spreading. Regardless of what happened that socket has been around for 48 years and has probably paid for itself numerous times. Don't forget it has a lifetime warranty get a new one ...

The metal in the socket will not fatigue from age. It might fatigue form being use or used with a cheater bar 48 year old tools are not old and they are better than todays tools. Age does not mean a bad tool. The steel should be much better. I have tools that I purschased new in the 60's and they are as good as the day I bought them.


I have seen a lot of Chrome peal of Snap-on tools. Snap-0n is way over rated and priced. Many of Snaps tools are not of good quality. I buy them when they are dirt cheap. I like some of my old Crapsman wratchets better than I do my Snap-on ones. Snap-on is not gold. Are you srue you socket was not stretched before you used it? I would not pannic either, after all it is only Snap-on.:dunno: I use carving tools and wood planes that are 150 years old or older. Age really has nothing to do with how a tool will hold up. It is use and abuse. I have never even had a cheap Chraftsmand wratchet strip out. I have broken 2 craftsman sockets but I had a long pipe on the breaker bar. That split the sockets. Those are the only 2 good tools I have bronken in over 50 years of wrenching.
 

jtfc

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The metal in the socket will not fatigue from age. It might fatigue form being use or used with a cheater bar 48 year old tools are not old and they are better than todays tools. Age does not mean a bad tool. The steel should be much better. I have tools that I purschased new in the 60's and they are as good as the day I bought them.


I have seen a lot of Chrome peal of Snap-on tools. Snap-0n is way over rated and priced. Many of Snaps tools are not of good quality. I buy them when they are dirt cheap. I like some of my old Crapsman wratchets better than I do my Snap-on ones. Snap-on is not gold. Are you srue you socket was not stretched before you used it? I would not pannic either, after all it is only Snap-on.:dunno: I use carving tools and wood planes that are 150 years old or older. Age really has nothing to do with how a tool will hold up. It is use and abuse. I have never even had a cheap Chraftsmand wratchet strip out. I have broken 2 craftsman sockets but I had a long pipe on the breaker bar. That split the sockets. Those are the only 2 good tools I have bronken in over 50 years of wrenching.

Here we go...
 
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Lomotil

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Are you srue you socket was not stretched before you used it?

I did not actually measure the distance between the tips of the jaws before using it, but based on how snug it fit the fastener before versus afterward, I'd venture to say that the stretching did not occur before I had used it.

The corners of the bolt were unscathed by the event, as well, but I believe I mentioned that already.
 
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Lomotil

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Replacement showed up a few days ago...

attachment.php


There was no "tear away" return-to-sender label under the UPS shipping label, nor any instructions to ship the broken part back, so I'm pretty sure they knew it'd be more expensive for them to pay shipping back on it than for me to keep it as a souvenir. I can JB-Weld a magnet to it and stick it on the fridge.

First impressions? Aesthetically, the chrome is worlds apart from the 1964 socket. The '64 had a certain coarse satin quality to it, and the 2011 version is virtually mirror-like. The new foot has no stamped name, or size, but is completely laser etched, including the part number (which was absent on the original.) Normally, I prefer stamping, as etching tends to wear more, but on a specialty tool like this, I'm not as concerned about it wearing off.

Next thing I noticed is the sheer mass of the foot, compared to it's 47 year elder. The old foot clocks in at 25.9g. The new foot weighs in a full 3 grams more, 32.9. Now, the jaws have been substantially redesigned to be wider and stronger, but the socket itself is shorter, too. Another point worth mentioning is that I miss the new socket's lack of the square hole on the opposite end of the jaws that would allow someone to save space on their rail by orienting the open jaws away from the rail itself (as I have always done.) This may account for a portion of the new design's weight, but it's still a shorter design, and with more emphasis on the allocation of steel around the jaws themselves.

attachment.php


For reference, the 1964 9/16" cousin to my 1/2" weighs in at 24.3g - almost a full gram and a half under it's next smallest size.

If there's one thing that is consistent, it's the lack of symmetry between all of the examples. The older sockets, most noticeably on the 9/16", are nowhere near equal in length, and on the 2011 socket, the sides of the jaws in the opening are a few degrees away from being parallel with the 3/8" drive hole. I cannot find the charging cable for the camera I took the first pictures, so the pics I'm posting are not able to capture the same level of detail as the originals (sub-par cell phone camera.) I expect a new cable/battery in the mail tomorrow or the next, and will update with clearer pictures at that time.

Bottom line?

First, and foremost, my hat is off to the Snap-on warranty and their customer service department. For such a small item, and despite the tool's age, no questions were asked about the nature of the tool's failure (don't know if the submitted picture played a part in it, but I'm guessing it did.) My first experience in dealing with the Snap-on warranty from the corporate level spoken volumes of the lengths they will go to honor their guarantee, and I am more than satisfied that they stand behind their tools.

Secondly, and I'll admit, I'm a bit of a nit-picker with a severe case of OCD (or CDO, since everything should be ordered alphabetically,) the asymmetry of the jaws and them not lining up parallel to the drive square simply shouldn't be there. In this age of computer automation and mechanical forging, I can only wonder if their warranty replacement stock is comprised of finished tools that didn't make the grade to be sold on the trucks.

Yes, I said something that might come off as pretty nasty in an overly-enthusiastic Snap-on crowd, but I'm honestly curious - would a brand new $22.50 socket purchased off the truck have the open end at an angle, with respect to the drive square?

Again, not trying to start a debate - very happy with the replacement, but curious...

(Better pics to follow.)
 

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GeorgiaHybrid

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Replacement showed up a few days ago...

Yes, I said something that might come off as pretty nasty in an overly-enthusiastic Snap-on crowd, but I'm honestly curious - would a brand new $22.50 socket purchased off the truck have the open end at an angle, with respect to the drive square?

Again, not trying to start a debate - very happy with the replacement, but curious...

(Better pics to follow.)

They could either be sold on a truck or sent to you as they are the same. There are minor variations in the forging/broaching process that will let the open end be a "little" off square to the drive broach but it does not affect the tool whatsoever Put it in your box and use it. By the way, I have crows feet from SK and Snap-on and to be honest about it, I have NEVER looked to see if they were square, I just use the damn things.
 
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Lomotil

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They could either be sold on a truck or sent to you as they are the same. There are minor variations in the forging/broaching process that will let the open end be a "little" off square to the drive broach but it does not affect the tool whatsoever Put it in your box and use it. By the way, I have crows feet from SK and Snap-on and to be honest about it, I have NEVER looked to see if they were square, I just use the damn things.

I didn't think it would affect the tool's performance too much, but the OCD was kicking in when I composed the write-up.

Not being a tool I use on a regular basis, it doesn't bother me all that much that it has to fit on the rail a different way than it's cousins (OK, yeah - it does - but I'm still happier to have what appears to be a stronger designed socket in it's place.)

And the chrome is so purdy, too... :D
 

Seanbev24

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Lynnwood, Wa
Has anybody else noticed how tight an inner tie rod is on a rack box? Open end is about the only option ( even the proper tool is not a flare nut ) as many of those nuts only have two sides.. and can be fun to crack loose.

There are a few different styles of inner tie rod tools that make things easy. I use my 24" 1/2" drive ratchet with the 2 types I have. An open end wrench is simply the wrong tool for that job.
 
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